Daimler Double 6
#1
Daimler Double 6
Hi everyone i have a 1979 Daimler Double 6 was running great, reversed it out the garage, come to put it back started but would not run,seemd like lack of fuel.
put 2 gall in, started again but stoped after 2 secs and has not run since. Put in new spark plugs new dizzy cap new rotor arm everything looks good.
Please help sleepless nights thanks Bob in the UK.
put 2 gall in, started again but stoped after 2 secs and has not run since. Put in new spark plugs new dizzy cap new rotor arm everything looks good.
Please help sleepless nights thanks Bob in the UK.
#2
Rob,
Welcome to the Fprums/
When you catch up on sleep, please cisit teh New Members Area and do an Intro, keeps the Boss happy.
Starting that beast to move it, and shuting it down before it got to Temp is a NO NO. PITA I know, but fact is fact.
The Fuel Infection System is a Bosch D Jetrocic, and it can flood the thing too easily.
New plugs etc is good, but I bet its got a belly full of fuel.
Some quicky checks:
1) Ensure you have spark AT the plug. Use an old plug in the end of any lead, crank it, observe the spark. A good healthy cracker is what you need to see.
2) Ign ON, engine OFF (Duh, yeh I know its OFF already), open the throttles and LISTEN for the Injector "clicks" as you move to WOT. Should 10 I think, its been years. That confirms the Injectors are getting signal.
3) Volt meter on the +ve coil terminal, Ign ON, should be around 7ish volts, the Ballast drops it. Crank the thing, watch the meter, should be near 12V, as the ballast by-pass gives the coil a shock to aid starting.
#3 is important, as AGE is now at play, and the Ignition switch electrical section are causing grief, and dropping Ign Volts when you go to start position. I doubt yours is, a sit runs for a few seconds, but its free to check. I have a PDF for fixing that if you need it.
I would get a small block of wood, manually open the throttle capstan, and jam the thing at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Leave it a day or 2 to dry out. Mine do this if the kids move one as you have done and dont remember my rules. I charge them $100 each time they forget, they will learn one day.
Lets know the findings, there are more things to check, but lets keep it simple for now.
ALSO
The XJ Series 1/2/3 Tech Section will have many more suggestions.
Welcome to the Fprums/
When you catch up on sleep, please cisit teh New Members Area and do an Intro, keeps the Boss happy.
Starting that beast to move it, and shuting it down before it got to Temp is a NO NO. PITA I know, but fact is fact.
The Fuel Infection System is a Bosch D Jetrocic, and it can flood the thing too easily.
New plugs etc is good, but I bet its got a belly full of fuel.
Some quicky checks:
1) Ensure you have spark AT the plug. Use an old plug in the end of any lead, crank it, observe the spark. A good healthy cracker is what you need to see.
2) Ign ON, engine OFF (Duh, yeh I know its OFF already), open the throttles and LISTEN for the Injector "clicks" as you move to WOT. Should 10 I think, its been years. That confirms the Injectors are getting signal.
3) Volt meter on the +ve coil terminal, Ign ON, should be around 7ish volts, the Ballast drops it. Crank the thing, watch the meter, should be near 12V, as the ballast by-pass gives the coil a shock to aid starting.
#3 is important, as AGE is now at play, and the Ignition switch electrical section are causing grief, and dropping Ign Volts when you go to start position. I doubt yours is, a sit runs for a few seconds, but its free to check. I have a PDF for fixing that if you need it.
I would get a small block of wood, manually open the throttle capstan, and jam the thing at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Leave it a day or 2 to dry out. Mine do this if the kids move one as you have done and dont remember my rules. I charge them $100 each time they forget, they will learn one day.
Lets know the findings, there are more things to check, but lets keep it simple for now.
ALSO
The XJ Series 1/2/3 Tech Section will have many more suggestions.
#3
Rob,
Had some more thoughts.
You are "up there" and more than likely have Cold Start Injectors (2), 1 in each Inlet Manifold.
They are designed to spray fuel during cranking, based on engine temp etc etc, BUT, the control items are Lucas derived, so anything can go wrong. I suggest unplugging each Injector, this will stop any stray signals causing them to spray and flood the engine.
The running for a few seconds then stopping could be other things, but I understand you have simply moved the car, it was OK for that move, now its not OK.
We had Cold Starts sometimes, down here. I remove them always, they are not really needed. Jaguar also fitted/deleted/fitted them throughout the engines life.
Had some more thoughts.
You are "up there" and more than likely have Cold Start Injectors (2), 1 in each Inlet Manifold.
They are designed to spray fuel during cranking, based on engine temp etc etc, BUT, the control items are Lucas derived, so anything can go wrong. I suggest unplugging each Injector, this will stop any stray signals causing them to spray and flood the engine.
The running for a few seconds then stopping could be other things, but I understand you have simply moved the car, it was OK for that move, now its not OK.
We had Cold Starts sometimes, down here. I remove them always, they are not really needed. Jaguar also fitted/deleted/fitted them throughout the engines life.
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