Early I.R.S. Differential question
#1
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This is very specific, not exactly a general question, mods please move if there is a more appropriate section...
So I'm trying to change my own rear brakes and I got everything disassembled. I hit one snag while taking out the half shaft? and resorted to cutting a bolt off...
![](http://i50.tinypic.com/oqgi2o.jpg)
There is no hollow spot on the differential where I could remove the bolt in place. Do I need to remove that side of the differential to get the bolt plate free?
Is it a hornets nest inside? Im wondering if I should just take whats left to the local jag shop...
So I'm trying to change my own rear brakes and I got everything disassembled. I hit one snag while taking out the half shaft? and resorted to cutting a bolt off...
![](http://i50.tinypic.com/oqgi2o.jpg)
There is no hollow spot on the differential where I could remove the bolt in place. Do I need to remove that side of the differential to get the bolt plate free?
Is it a hornets nest inside? Im wondering if I should just take whats left to the local jag shop...
#3
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Well I figured How much more damage can I do?
I started to round off the 5 Differential bolts so I immediately went to my knew best friend, a MAPP gas torch and the bolts came out like butter.
Now I've got a little puzzle in disassembling the output shaft to get that chopped bolt out. I will put up pics...
I started to round off the 5 Differential bolts so I immediately went to my knew best friend, a MAPP gas torch and the bolts came out like butter.
Now I've got a little puzzle in disassembling the output shaft to get that chopped bolt out. I will put up pics...
#4
#5
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The large thin nut needs to be removed and the shaft pulled from the flange.
Just mark and tighten the nut to the same spot and you should be good.
You can replace the crush tube between the bearings but I have gotten away with just reinstalling the part and checking the preload.
If the crush-sleeve is replaced (this is the proper method), I always 'pre-crush' it slightly in a press so the thin nut is not damaged with a lot of torque. You will see it 'bulge' at the seam and that is when to stop.
Your call but use anti-seize compound on the bolts in case you need to remove it again.
bob gauff
Just mark and tighten the nut to the same spot and you should be good.
You can replace the crush tube between the bearings but I have gotten away with just reinstalling the part and checking the preload.
If the crush-sleeve is replaced (this is the proper method), I always 'pre-crush' it slightly in a press so the thin nut is not damaged with a lot of torque. You will see it 'bulge' at the seam and that is when to stop.
Your call but use anti-seize compound on the bolts in case you need to remove it again.
bob gauff
Last edited by motorcarman; 10-21-2012 at 10:09 PM.
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2000CAXK8 (10-23-2012)
#6
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I left it at a shop earlier yesterday cause they have to press it out and press it back in...
In the meantime I have reassembled the other sides brakes and springs. I forgot to put the camber shims back in. We will see how wonkey the tires look once she's sitting again.
Also the 'radius arm' rubber mounts are fused to the car body. Looks like i'm gonna have to torch and cut, torch and cut to get them off for replacement. I'm going to wait until I've put the rear end back in though so I can do it outside. No sense in burning down the house...
In the meantime I have reassembled the other sides brakes and springs. I forgot to put the camber shims back in. We will see how wonkey the tires look once she's sitting again.
Also the 'radius arm' rubber mounts are fused to the car body. Looks like i'm gonna have to torch and cut, torch and cut to get them off for replacement. I'm going to wait until I've put the rear end back in though so I can do it outside. No sense in burning down the house...
![](http://i50.tinypic.com/15p50ti.jpg)
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