Jag Parts Recommendation?
#1
Jag Parts Recommendation?
I have owned a Jag in the past and also a few Land Rovers. For the Land Rovers there are multiple places to easily source factory and non-factory parts at a reasonable price (i.e. Atlantic British, etc.). Of course my dealer would love to bend me over based on the prices they are trying to charge for parts.
Who is everyone using for their Jag Parts? I have a 2009 XF and a 2007 XK.
Thanks
Who is everyone using for their Jag Parts? I have a 2009 XF and a 2007 XK.
Thanks
#5
#6
Big rip off.
Dealer accidentally quoted a "wholesale" & "retail"
Price for MAP sensor, MAF sensor, o rings, gaskets, PVC hose, intake manifold gaskets, etc. Price diff bet wholesale & retail range from 33% to 980%.
What a larceny! In the past I bought from jagbits, partsgeek and autozone. At all costs try to avoid buying parts from a dealer.
Dealer accidentally quoted a "wholesale" & "retail"
Price for MAP sensor, MAF sensor, o rings, gaskets, PVC hose, intake manifold gaskets, etc. Price diff bet wholesale & retail range from 33% to 980%.
What a larceny! In the past I bought from jagbits, partsgeek and autozone. At all costs try to avoid buying parts from a dealer.
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Bob OB (03-27-2013)
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If you ever want to find what the jaguar recommended price is for a piece, go to Jaguarparts.com. Look up the part that you are after and it will show you both the Jaguar recommended price and what this place will sell it to you for. Just for reference, the Jaguarparts.com site is a dealership out of Cleveland Ohio.
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jaysva (06-17-2012)
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jay, I am not an advocate for the "stop leak" products. This is the question that I have to ask you: "how does a chemical know whether it is sealing a leak leading outside the engine or plugging up an oil channel?" Think about that. Now, do you want to "stop the leaking" in all of you oil channels? Ask your mechanic what he thinks of these products if he is the one having to rebuild a motor after this has been used. I bet you will learn a few new "interesting/colorful" words.
These "stop leak" products for the most part I consider emergency products. If you are in a very dangerous situation and you need out of there, by all means, dump in 5 cans of the product to get your car out of the situation. But, at the same time, you should also be ready to pay for what you have just done.
If you want a professional opinion on this (I am just a backyard mechanic), ask one of the Techs here and see what their opinions are of the products. I bet you will find that they love seeing a car come in with those products installed because it means a lot more shop time and therefore money for the shop.
These "stop leak" products for the most part I consider emergency products. If you are in a very dangerous situation and you need out of there, by all means, dump in 5 cans of the product to get your car out of the situation. But, at the same time, you should also be ready to pay for what you have just done.
If you want a professional opinion on this (I am just a backyard mechanic), ask one of the Techs here and see what their opinions are of the products. I bet you will find that they love seeing a car come in with those products installed because it means a lot more shop time and therefore money for the shop.
#14
#15
As it was my first time changing a water pump, had to wrestle with the belt almost an hr. I took the tensioner completely off the housing. It took me almost 5 hrs for the whole job not counting the power flush the previous night.
1) How critical is torquing the tensioner & water pump bolts? Does it have to precisely 10Nm (my Chinese torque wrench has lot of slippage).
2) I "burped" the system as Thermo's forum. At first because the coolant boiled over after a few burps I didn't fill it to the "Min" level yet. Drove almost 250 miles after installation. Slowing adding coolant.
3) I used the red coolant from Prestone.
4) Flushed and drained radiator with Prestone Power Flush. No rust or sediments from radiator.
5) How do I know what is the right tension for the belt?
6) Now, I don't recall if the tensioner was tightened all the way. Perhaps did.
7) Sometimes a sweet smell inside car when car is hot. Should this be a concern?
8) There is no coolant loss as I checked it every day.
9) Used Form-a-gasket #2 sealant on both sides of the paper gasket.
Thank you.
Jays
2004 X-Type 3.0L AWD
152,640 miles - water pump replacement
1) How critical is torquing the tensioner & water pump bolts? Does it have to precisely 10Nm (my Chinese torque wrench has lot of slippage).
2) I "burped" the system as Thermo's forum. At first because the coolant boiled over after a few burps I didn't fill it to the "Min" level yet. Drove almost 250 miles after installation. Slowing adding coolant.
3) I used the red coolant from Prestone.
4) Flushed and drained radiator with Prestone Power Flush. No rust or sediments from radiator.
5) How do I know what is the right tension for the belt?
6) Now, I don't recall if the tensioner was tightened all the way. Perhaps did.
7) Sometimes a sweet smell inside car when car is hot. Should this be a concern?
8) There is no coolant loss as I checked it every day.
9) Used Form-a-gasket #2 sealant on both sides of the paper gasket.
Thank you.
Jays
2004 X-Type 3.0L AWD
152,640 miles - water pump replacement
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