MAF and Throttle body cleaning
#1
MAF and Throttle body cleaning
Just thought I might post something useful for you Jag owners out there and anyone having idling/fuel/maf problems.
I just recently cleared a fuel fail code on my 165k mile xj6 by simply cleaning out the maf and throttle body and every easily accessible tube on it with basic carb cleaner. i did a decent job, probably coulda cleaned it better but the same goes for my nuts. anyways, the TB and MAF were caked in crud everywhere and im sure that was the problem. it runs noticeably smoother now. that is, after the air filter change, plugs, dielectric grease on all the connectors including the plugs and wires. cost me maybe 30 bucks for everything. check engine light is OFF now.
Next step im thinking is to add toluene to the gas at about a pint per 18 gallons. i'll probably do it twice and not consecutively as im not sure about the rate of melting of seals with solvent based octane boosters/ detergents. i've been doing a little reseach online and toluene is supposed to work pretty well at removing gunk from lines and injectors etc. so i think i'll give it a try. my car does run a tad rough but its expected from a car with 165k but its by no means noticeable by anyone but me... the wrench head. i've heard chevron techron additive is supposed to be good as well but i think i'll try toluene first as its cheaper and pure and on top of that its a proven octane booster. 10-20 bucks a gallon. and left overs you can use it for anything that calls for a solvent as well.
one thing to note- a crack in the air duct tube might also be a culprit. as little as it is, it can have an effect on the temp of air, amount of air, and particles being sucked into the MAF. perhaps i will clean everything again a little better this time and fix the tube so its snug and airtight.
for anybody having issues with rough idling/fuel codes you should try the economical way first before buying parts. the kid i stole this car from (bought cheap) would be kicking himself in the *** if he knew what i have done to this diamond in the rough. its a beauty! keep it clean boys... inside and out.
any comments welcome-
I just recently cleared a fuel fail code on my 165k mile xj6 by simply cleaning out the maf and throttle body and every easily accessible tube on it with basic carb cleaner. i did a decent job, probably coulda cleaned it better but the same goes for my nuts. anyways, the TB and MAF were caked in crud everywhere and im sure that was the problem. it runs noticeably smoother now. that is, after the air filter change, plugs, dielectric grease on all the connectors including the plugs and wires. cost me maybe 30 bucks for everything. check engine light is OFF now.
Next step im thinking is to add toluene to the gas at about a pint per 18 gallons. i'll probably do it twice and not consecutively as im not sure about the rate of melting of seals with solvent based octane boosters/ detergents. i've been doing a little reseach online and toluene is supposed to work pretty well at removing gunk from lines and injectors etc. so i think i'll give it a try. my car does run a tad rough but its expected from a car with 165k but its by no means noticeable by anyone but me... the wrench head. i've heard chevron techron additive is supposed to be good as well but i think i'll try toluene first as its cheaper and pure and on top of that its a proven octane booster. 10-20 bucks a gallon. and left overs you can use it for anything that calls for a solvent as well.
one thing to note- a crack in the air duct tube might also be a culprit. as little as it is, it can have an effect on the temp of air, amount of air, and particles being sucked into the MAF. perhaps i will clean everything again a little better this time and fix the tube so its snug and airtight.
for anybody having issues with rough idling/fuel codes you should try the economical way first before buying parts. the kid i stole this car from (bought cheap) would be kicking himself in the *** if he knew what i have done to this diamond in the rough. its a beauty! keep it clean boys... inside and out.
any comments welcome-
The following users liked this post:
Nola-Jag (10-27-2013)
#3
Just thought I might post something useful for you Jag owners out there and anyone having idling/fuel/maf problems.
I just recently cleared a fuel fail code on my 165k mile xj6 by simply cleaning out the maf and throttle body and every easily accessible tube on it with basic carb cleaner. i did a decent job, probably coulda cleaned it better but the same goes for my nuts. anyways, the TB and MAF were caked in crud everywhere and im sure that was the problem. it runs noticeably smoother now. that is, after the air filter change, plugs, dielectric grease on all the connectors including the plugs and wires. cost me maybe 30 bucks for everything. check engine light is OFF now.
Next step im thinking is to add toluene to the gas at about a pint per 18 gallons. i'll probably do it twice and not consecutively as im not sure about the rate of melting of seals with solvent based octane boosters/ detergents. i've been doing a little reseach online and toluene is supposed to work pretty well at removing gunk from lines and injectors etc. so i think i'll give it a try. my car does run a tad rough but its expected from a car with 165k but its by no means noticeable by anyone but me... the wrench head. i've heard chevron techron additive is supposed to be good as well but i think i'll try toluene first as its cheaper and pure and on top of that its a proven octane booster. 10-20 bucks a gallon. and left overs you can use it for anything that calls for a solvent as well.
one thing to note- a crack in the air duct tube might also be a culprit. as little as it is, it can have an effect on the temp of air, amount of air, and particles being sucked into the MAF. perhaps i will clean everything again a little better this time and fix the tube so its snug and airtight.
for anybody having issues with rough idling/fuel codes you should try the economical way first before buying parts. the kid i stole this car from (bought cheap) would be kicking himself in the *** if he knew what i have done to this diamond in the rough. its a beauty! keep it clean boys... inside and out.
any comments welcome-
I just recently cleared a fuel fail code on my 165k mile xj6 by simply cleaning out the maf and throttle body and every easily accessible tube on it with basic carb cleaner. i did a decent job, probably coulda cleaned it better but the same goes for my nuts. anyways, the TB and MAF were caked in crud everywhere and im sure that was the problem. it runs noticeably smoother now. that is, after the air filter change, plugs, dielectric grease on all the connectors including the plugs and wires. cost me maybe 30 bucks for everything. check engine light is OFF now.
Next step im thinking is to add toluene to the gas at about a pint per 18 gallons. i'll probably do it twice and not consecutively as im not sure about the rate of melting of seals with solvent based octane boosters/ detergents. i've been doing a little reseach online and toluene is supposed to work pretty well at removing gunk from lines and injectors etc. so i think i'll give it a try. my car does run a tad rough but its expected from a car with 165k but its by no means noticeable by anyone but me... the wrench head. i've heard chevron techron additive is supposed to be good as well but i think i'll try toluene first as its cheaper and pure and on top of that its a proven octane booster. 10-20 bucks a gallon. and left overs you can use it for anything that calls for a solvent as well.
one thing to note- a crack in the air duct tube might also be a culprit. as little as it is, it can have an effect on the temp of air, amount of air, and particles being sucked into the MAF. perhaps i will clean everything again a little better this time and fix the tube so its snug and airtight.
for anybody having issues with rough idling/fuel codes you should try the economical way first before buying parts. the kid i stole this car from (bought cheap) would be kicking himself in the *** if he knew what i have done to this diamond in the rough. its a beauty! keep it clean boys... inside and out.
any comments welcome-
When doing this you are hoping the connection shears off the grease so metal to metal contact is made. Even a very thin film of grease between the blade and socket can cause high resistance or complete dropouts. As time goes on, the grease will collect dust/dirt creating an unwanted mess in these electrically sensitive connectors. The older XJ6s still had some early, more rudimentary electrical designs, but dielectric grease is especially harmful once the newer models used more sophisticated CAN/BUS architectures.
All of the electrical connectors on any harnesses coming from or going to the ECU to sensors or any connections on the main harnesses should be left clean and dry. Use any good electrical contact cleaner spray from the computer world to clean and allow to dry before reassembly. This cleaner does a very good job and does not leave a film which is also bad.
I won't reply to this thread further and apologize in advance if this topic causes another "what brand of oil to use" or "can I use regular gas in my Jaguar" firestorm.
#4
Déjà vu!
This subject has been discussed, argued, regurgitated a number of times to no avail. The use of Di-Electric grease does not harm or disturb the proper electrical connections when used in moderately and correctly. I use it on my cars and will continue to recommend its use. I hope this link will help others that it is not a bad thing. Jeep Articles / General (Dielectric Grease) - MoabJeeper Magazine
Another good link http://www.nyelubricants.com/applica...nnectors.shtml
I hope this helps.
This subject has been discussed, argued, regurgitated a number of times to no avail. The use of Di-Electric grease does not harm or disturb the proper electrical connections when used in moderately and correctly. I use it on my cars and will continue to recommend its use. I hope this link will help others that it is not a bad thing. Jeep Articles / General (Dielectric Grease) - MoabJeeper Magazine
Another good link http://www.nyelubricants.com/applica...nnectors.shtml
I hope this helps.
Last edited by Gus; 01-19-2012 at 09:02 PM. Reason: Add another link
#5
Gus,
Sorry, but I agree with Steve. Dielectric grease is an insulator (for example it is used in electrolytic capacitors insulate between two layers of foil coiled around each other & the PD between the two sheets can be very high), it will attract & hold dust, and the only time it does conduct is when you get 'arc over' caused by physical breakdown of the material. One place where it is commonly found in electronics is the mounting of high power transistors, usually with a mica or paxolin sheet between the transistor & the heat sink where the grease is used to assist with heat conduction. It can be a good supplimentary insulator, be should not be used in situations where electrical conductivity is paramount.
For the record, my background (a long time ago, admittedly) is in Elecrto-Mechanical Engieering (RADAR), so I do have some knowledge of the subject.
Cheers,
Languid
Sorry, but I agree with Steve. Dielectric grease is an insulator (for example it is used in electrolytic capacitors insulate between two layers of foil coiled around each other & the PD between the two sheets can be very high), it will attract & hold dust, and the only time it does conduct is when you get 'arc over' caused by physical breakdown of the material. One place where it is commonly found in electronics is the mounting of high power transistors, usually with a mica or paxolin sheet between the transistor & the heat sink where the grease is used to assist with heat conduction. It can be a good supplimentary insulator, be should not be used in situations where electrical conductivity is paramount.
For the record, my background (a long time ago, admittedly) is in Elecrto-Mechanical Engieering (RADAR), so I do have some knowledge of the subject.
Cheers,
Languid
#6
You sir are entitled to your opinion and I respect that; however I do not agree. Reference I was in the electrical business for 40 yrs supervising, managing and direction operations. My use of it on my XK8 & S-Type to date has been successful and without ill effects.
#7
its funny how often i post things in forums to help people who might be having a similar problem, to have a singular suggestion pointed out and rebuffed by some self proclaimed no it all. its worse than my young girlfriend with selective hearing. you people have selective reading problems. i'd bet you anything that the mandatory 10 percent gasoline additive they put at every station will damage your cars far sooner than dielectric grease in my spark plug wires
Trending Topics
#8
kaniela,
Your lack of understanding about the technical attributes of dielectrice is apparently outweighed by lack of comprehension in both where and where not to apply such substances, and in English.
There is an old adage which goes something like this: "If you say nothing people will think you a fool, when you open your mouth, they will know it".
I would suggest that when you have learned as much about electromechanical engineering as I have forgotten (and learned a little more of the correct use of the English Language), then you will be in a position to make such inane observations. They won't be of any greater value, but you may be wise enough to know when to keep your mouth shut.
Your lack of understanding about the technical attributes of dielectrice is apparently outweighed by lack of comprehension in both where and where not to apply such substances, and in English.
There is an old adage which goes something like this: "If you say nothing people will think you a fool, when you open your mouth, they will know it".
I would suggest that when you have learned as much about electromechanical engineering as I have forgotten (and learned a little more of the correct use of the English Language), then you will be in a position to make such inane observations. They won't be of any greater value, but you may be wise enough to know when to keep your mouth shut.
#9
As a post script, you also need to learn a little more about the chemical composition of Toluene, and how it will affect your car. I don't plan to bother trying to educate you after your little outburst, because I will never have to pay for the repairs to your car.
#10
Ok..opinions, we all have them and they usually differ from someone else's.....thats fine.
The written word is read here and a poor substitute for talking / listening and being face to face with someone.
We therefore need to take time to think before posting and re read what we have written before submitting.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
xjrjag
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
23
10-24-2024 04:09 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)