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Roger That Thermo, I thought of that but the diagram were using is not exactly what I've got, close but no cigar. But I will look at it closer over the weekend with that in mind. Thanks Again Thermo
Mike, we can always bypass all the modules and simply hardwire the seat. That is always an option. The matter is just coming up wtih a wiring diagram for you to follow. Sometimes old school is the easiest way.
Well I did the deed! Got rid of all that wiring and module. Im down to 3 motors and 3 pairs of wires. Looks a lot cleaner now. Checked the motors out, they all work. I'm ordering 3 reversing switches and make a custom panel on the side to mount the switches. I feel better now. It was like throwing up, You don't want to do it but you know as soon as you do you will feel better. Thanks Thermo, your a champ!
Some times you have to take that leap of faith and just dive in and have the attitude of "I WILL MAKE THIS WORK". I did that when I did the suspension on my truck. What could go wrong tearing the whole suspension off of a brand new truck and putting in a lift that no one else has done by yourself? I did it. Learned a lot. Would it be something I do again solo? Probably not.
Elliot, if you have a diagram of the seats, then that would be very helpful to me. I can then tell you all the wires that you need to tap into. The memory keypad really should not affect anything. I will send you my e-mail addy if you have the drawings.
Hi there again Thermo,
This has been on the back burner for a bit since my last attempt but have now got the wiring diagram from JLR them selves. If you could give it a look at and let me know if you think it’s/what’s possible.
cheers
Elliot, the 4th image tells pretty much the whole story. You need to look under the seat and find 4 power wires. They should be for the most part on the same connector. But, you are after a yellow wire with a red stripe, a violet(purple) wire with a red stripe, a brown wire with a red stripe, and a green wire with a yellow stripe. All 4 of these wires are going to get tied together and attached to your power source. From there, you will need to locate 4 black wires coming off of the seat computer area. 3 are grounds for the computer, the 4th for the lumbar support. You will then need to locate 4 black wires coming from the area of the switch pack on the side of the seat. Al 8 of these wires will need to be tied together and attached to the ground of your power supply. Also, with these wires, it would appear that you should find a gray wire with a yellow stripe.(can't quite make out the lettering on the diagram, but it is just under the lumbar pump on the 4th image. That wire will need to be added to the 4 power wires above. That should get all the power to where you need to make the seat work outside of the vehicle.
Elliot, the 4th image tells pretty much the whole story. You need to look under the seat and find 4 power wires. They should be for the most part on the same connector. But, you are after a yellow wire with a red stripe, a violet(purple) wire with a red stripe, a brown wire with a red stripe, and a green wire with a yellow stripe. All 4 of these wires are going to get tied together and attached to your power source. From there, you will need to locate 4 black wires coming off of the seat computer area. 3 are grounds for the computer, the 4th for the lumbar support. You will then need to locate 4 black wires coming from the area of the switch pack on the side of the seat. Al 8 of these wires will need to be tied together and attached to the ground of your power supply. Also, with these wires, it would appear that you should find a gray wire with a yellow stripe.(can't quite make out the lettering on the diagram, but it is just under the lumbar pump on the 4th image. That wire will need to be added to the 4 power wires above. That should get all the power to where you need to make the seat work outside of the vehicle.
H there again Thermo,
just tried our what you said above and it seems to all power on. I can move the seat but only incrementally. Each press moves about 5-10mm at a time. Is this due to the memory function of sorts?
Elliot, yes, it would appear that the seat is looking for a CAN bus sort of signal and obviously, not something that we have wired up. So, the seat does the incremental thing. This is where going with a lower grade seat makes things easier. I have not heard of a way around this with the seats.
Hi,
I'm trying to connect Jaf XF seats to a bus, I have managed to get the passenger seats working connecting the Black cable to the ground and the Red/brown and white/brown power connected to brown/white & Brown/Red, black to ground. The passenger seat works, driver seat doesn't
to power. tius works for all movement of the seat. However, when I connected the same on the drive seats nothing happens. I would be grateful if someone could tell me what else I need to connect, please.
Maqgot, do you know if the seats are 8 way, 12-way, memory seats, etc. The more info you can give me about the seats, the more detailed of information I can give you. There are a few different levels of seats and each one is wired up slightly differently. If you can tell me the year XF is also very helpful information.
Maqgot, do you know if the seats are 8 way, 12-way, memory seats, etc. The more info you can give me about the seats, the more detailed of information I can give you. There are a few different levels of seats and each one is wired up slightly differently. If you can tell me the year XF is also very helpful information.
Hi Thermo,
Thank you for responding, unfortunately, I don't know what XF they have come from by from the sticker on the module it states "DRIVER SEAT MODULE 8 WAY".
Thanks again for your help.
Cheers
Maggot
Maggot, based on the "2w9F" part of the part number, that is telling me that the seat is coming out of a 03-08 XJ. So, if you are sure that it is coming out of an XF, then it would be coming out of an 09-10 XF most likely as Jaguar would be using up some of their left over stock. But, using either the 03-08 diagrams or the 09-10 XF drawings, it should refer to the same wiring. So, let me take a look. I should have the diagrams to get to these seats and give you the info you need.
Maggot, well, i have looked further and from the diagrams that I can find, you should have it wired up correctly. The only "problem" that I can see is that for you to make the lumbar part of the seat work, you would need to find a brown/green wire and a black/pink wire in the same connector (but not the 4 pin you show). That would allow the lumbar to inflate and deflate.
I also found out that these seats were also used in the 04-08 S-Type. But, my diagrams for those years show brown/red and brown/white powering the seat and the 2 black wires being the ground. This really only leaves the fact that you may have a bad driver's seat module.
Maggot, well, i have looked further and from the diagrams that I can find, you should have it wired up correctly. The only "problem" that I can see is that for you to make the lumbar part of the seat work, you would need to find a brown/green wire and a black/pink wire in the same connector (but not the 4 pin you show). That would allow the lumbar to inflate and deflate.
I also found out that these seats were also used in the 04-08 S-Type. But, my diagrams for those years show brown/red and brown/white powering the seat and the 2 black wires being the ground. This really only leaves the fact that you may have a bad driver's seat module.
Hi Thermo!
ive got a drivers seat with the exact same control box (same part number) and wires and connectors. Hooked it up the same way but no life.
maybe my box is also dead or something might need to be shorted/switched on to have the buttons respond. Like turning the board on after powering it up? No clue hehe BUT i will wire up the motors directly without the control unit if i need to as its going to become and office chair.
could you help out with wiring diagram for this box?
other than the part number of the control box i just know that the seat is from a jaguar (dunno model or year).
i can supply photos if needed but its basically the same seat as maggot posted pics of.
thanks in advance!
Jagn00b, let me look at the diagrams and make sure. The other question I would have is what are you using to power the seat. You are going to need something that can supply 12 VDC at 10+ amps. So, a simple plug in wall power supply is probably not going to cut it. You need a battery of some sort. I recommend a 12 VDC 7AH battery. You can then put say a 12 VDC 500 mA power supply on to that. The battery will handle the large load of the motors and the power supply will slowly recharge the battery.
Jagn00b, let me look at the diagrams and make sure. The other question I would have is what are you using to power the seat. You are going to need something that can supply 12 VDC at 10+ amps. So, a simple plug in wall power supply is probably not going to cut it. You need a battery of some sort. I recommend a 12 VDC 7AH battery. You can then put say a 12 VDC 500 mA power supply on to that. The battery will handle the large load of the motors and the power supply will slowly recharge the battery.
Thanks for the quick reply!
Right now for testing purposes im using a standalone 10AH 12VDC battery, later on i will hook it up to a 24V battery bank (charged by solar) via a 10A 12V stepdown converter.
After hooking it up i measured 12.9V on the pins on the board where the cables connect. Tried to detect any voltage over pins connected to motors when i pressed the seat buttons but there wasnt any.
I was gifted the seat from a friend to make an office chair, he had no info on if the seat controls worked or not when he got it.
Jagn00b, you need to focus on 5 wires (hopefully your friend included the cut plugs so you can follow these wires. But, there should be a 4 pin plug that has 2 black wires and 2 brown wires (the brown wires are actually a brown wire with a white stripe and a brown wire with a red stripe). The 2 black wires get tied together and run to the negative post of the battery. The 2 brown wires I have talked about need to be jointed together (not permanently yet) and attached to the battery positive. The final brown wire should be a brown wire with a green stripe. Attach that to the other 2 brown wires. That should make the seat 90% functional.
For some reason, I see you as a techy and you may have the tool that I am after. Do you have a tool called a toner? This is normally used for tracing CAT5 cable. An example of it would be this: PN-F Wire Tracker Toner and Probe Network Cable Tester Fluke Style RJ11 RJ45 New | eBay. If you have one, then we can attach the toner to the seat motors. As long as you are not touching the switches, this should point you to the seat ground wires. If you are not familiar with how to use the device, let me know. But, putting the positive clip on one of the motor terminals, you should find 1 wires that has a tone with the antenna, this is your ground wire. Now, if you start operating the seat switches (1 at a time), you should see a second wire that is going to suddenly have a tone on it too. This new wire is your positive wire. Move on to the next motor and repeat. By noting which wires have tone, you can figure out your power wires. Not the fastest method, but it should help point you in the right direction. This system will work unless you have a memory seat and then you are looking at trying to tone through components and that never works well.
Jagn00b, you need to focus on 5 wires (hopefully your friend included the cut plugs so you can follow these wires. But, there should be a 4 pin plug that has 2 black wires and 2 brown wires (the brown wires are actually a brown wire with a white stripe and a brown wire with a red stripe). The 2 black wires get tied together and run to the negative post of the battery. The 2 brown wires I have talked about need to be jointed together (not permanently yet) and attached to the battery positive. The final brown wire should be a brown wire with a green stripe. Attach that to the other 2 brown wires. That should make the seat 90% functional.
For some reason, I see you as a techy and you may have the tool that I am after. Do you have a tool called a toner? This is normally used for tracing CAT5 cable. An example of it would be this: PN-F Wire Tracker Toner and Probe Network Cable Tester Fluke Style RJ11 RJ45 New | eBay. If you have one, then we can attach the toner to the seat motors. As long as you are not touching the switches, this should point you to the seat ground wires. If you are not familiar with how to use the device, let me know. But, putting the positive clip on one of the motor terminals, you should find 1 wires that has a tone with the antenna, this is your ground wire. Now, if you start operating the seat switches (1 at a time), you should see a second wire that is going to suddenly have a tone on it too. This new wire is your positive wire. Move on to the next motor and repeat. By noting which wires have tone, you can figure out your power wires. Not the fastest method, but it should help point you in the right direction. This system will work unless you have a memory seat and then you are looking at trying to tone through components and that never works well.
Thanks a lot! The seat is alive!
After findingand connecting the brown wire with green stripe to positive still nothing happend but i noticed a thicker black wire in the same connector so i figured that was ground/negative so after also connecting that to the other black wires all motors are running both ways. Hooked it up to my solar system and motors draw around 30-40 watts each while running (maybe useful info for someone).
I am more of a computer geek that but starting to learn electronic circuits. So you picked that up I dont have a proper toner but i do have a basic tone function in my multimeter. Everything is working so i havent spent more time on the seat but if you want me to add info to the thread by probing the motor cables or something else i can do that.
Jagn00b, the "toner" in your multimeter is simply telling you if you have continuity or not. This is not necessarily what I am after. The circuit toner I am talking about puts an AC voltage on a wire. The antenna part of the toner is capable of sensing this voltage flowing through the same wire at a distance. So, lets say you have a bundle of 50 CAT5 wires that are all the same color and you put them all together, but forgot to label the ends to know which wire is which when creating this harness. Instead of tearing it apart, you can put the toner on one end and go to the other and wave the "wand" (antenna) over the other end and when it finds the other end of the CAT5 you are toning, it will beep. Depending on how close you have the wires, you may initially think it is a few wires. But, if you space them out, you can then narrow it down to a single CAT5. You can then repeat to find the next one. Comes in really handy when you do that bone-headed "ut-oh thing on a big project. For the seat, putting the toner on a terminal for the motor will cause both the positive and negative leads of the motor to transmit the tone. You can then pass it over the various connectors and find the other end.
But, you have the seat working and that is what is important. The power figure is interesting to me as that tells me that the motors are going to pull 3-4 amps and I can size my switches accordingly. Granted, I would still use 10 amp switches as I doubt you were sitting in the seat and if you measured the power then, you would see a dramatic rise (up to around 100-150 watts, depending on how much weight you are putting on the various motor).
With the 12 way power driver's seat (that has memory), you need to apply the positive 12 VDC to pins SD27-2 (brown/green wire), SD3-6 (brown/red wire), and SD4-13 (brown/green wire) on the control module under the seat. You will also need to provide power over to Pins SD5-7, SD29-8, and SD5-12 (all 3 wires are brown/green wires) on the button panel. This power may already be wired for you from pin 13 on the control module. So, just verify that.
You will need to ground (connect to the negative supply) Pins SD27-1 (black wire), SD3-5 (black wire), and SD4-26 (black/pink wire) on the control module, the ground wire coming off of the lumbar support air motor (black/pink wire), and to Pins SD29-1, SD5-6, and SD5-1 (all 3 wires are black/pink wires). The 3 wires coming off of the switch panel may already be wired up.
If you have a different style seat (there were 3 different options for this year), let me know. But, you can use the wire colors that I am providing and that will give you an idea of where power needs to be put. In short, the brown wires with a colored stripe on them (not the solid brown wires) need to have 12 VDC applied to them. The black or black and pink wires need to be grounded. You follow this general rule, you can make almost any Jaguar seat work for what you are looking at. keep in mind that you are going to need to supply power to multiple wires and you will also need to ground multiple wires. So, just because you have found 3 wires, there may be more than need something attached to them. I am also making the assumption that you have the plugs from the main harness still attached to the modules/button panels.
if you need more help, just hollar. i will do what I can.
This sound exactly what i am trying to do as fitting same seats to an old camper can someone the pins SD not sure what im looking for.
Thanks in antisipation
Simon
Simon, I am trying ot figure out what you are trying to get at. You show the wiring list that I gave someone else to power their seats. If you use that, then that should power up the seat. As for the SD27/SD3/SD4, those are the names of the connectors on the underside of the seat. If you look near the pins, you should see little numbers stamped in the plastic. Find 1 and count around till you get to the dash number. IE, SD3-5 should have a black wire in the Pin 5 location. If you don't have that, then you have in your hands one of the other plugs. So, count around and see if you have a black wire at the Pin #1 location or a black/pink wire at the Pin #26 location. Then you will know if you have SD27 or SD4. The plugs are not labeled with the SD number on them.
04-22-2023, 10:04 AM
I dont have a proper toner but i do have a basic tone function in my multimeter. Everything is working so i havent spent more time on the seat but if you want me to add info to the thread by probing the motor cables or something else i can do that.