sun damaged paint
#1
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,444
Likes: 0
Received 3,923 Likes
on
3,223 Posts
accounts2000, if you are talking about where the paint has turned white, then you are looking at having a shop respray the car assuming that they can use some polishing compound/lightly sand to get rid of the white (damaged clear coat). If they end up having to go below the color paint layer, then you are looking at having to have atleast the pieces painted with color and then clear coat the whole car.
You can try removing the white yourself using something like 3M Perfect-It III (Stage 1 or 2) and then taking your chances. Then all you would have to have done is the car clear coated.
Granted, I am making an assumption here. The best advice that I can say is to take it to a body shop and see what they say. But, I can almost garantee that they are going to see the Jag emblem and say something to the effect of "oh, this is bad and it needs a whole new paint job to the tune of ......". I would guess they are going to try and get your for somewhere in the neighborhood of $1500-2000.
You can try removing the white yourself using something like 3M Perfect-It III (Stage 1 or 2) and then taking your chances. Then all you would have to have done is the car clear coated.
Granted, I am making an assumption here. The best advice that I can say is to take it to a body shop and see what they say. But, I can almost garantee that they are going to see the Jag emblem and say something to the effect of "oh, this is bad and it needs a whole new paint job to the tune of ......". I would guess they are going to try and get your for somewhere in the neighborhood of $1500-2000.
The following users liked this post:
accounts2000 (01-02-2014)
#3
The following users liked this post:
accounts2000 (02-09-2014)
#4
Clear-over-Base paint is the very devil when it gets faded, because it is the base coat that is faded not the clear coat. In the old days of single layer paints, one could polish away the faded top of the paint, but with the clear coat on top, it is virtually impossible. I tried with my wife's New Beetle, that is a very bright yellow, but all you do is polish the clear coat, and the base coat stays the faded same. A combination of sanding away the clear coat, followed by a polish then application of another layer of clear coat might work.
#5
l rang x-kote up and the quoted me 6 -700 for a treatment,whats on the site in before and afters is pretty impressive,still my damage is bad. If they can get me out of it for the price ld be smiling.
http://www.x-kote.com.au/before-afte...icon_beerchug:
http://www.x-kote.com.au/before-afte...icon_beerchug:
#6
Clear-over-Base paint is the very devil when it gets faded, because it is the base coat that is faded not the clear coat. In the old days of single layer paints, one could polish away the faded top of the paint, but with the clear coat on top, it is virtually impossible. I tried with my wife's New Beetle, that is a very bright yellow, but all you do is polish the clear coat, and the base coat stays the faded same. A combination of sanding away the clear coat, followed by a polish then application of another layer of clear coat might work.
#7
If you have time to invest in, you could have a body shop
sandblast the existing paint and then shoot 1-2 layers of basecoat and then clearcoat. If you go by this route, I would suggest, atleast 5-6 layers of urethane clearcoat. Spraymax 2K is pretty good. Worst case, even if you used spraymax 2K clearcoat (aerosol spray can), there would be tremendous amount of orange peel, which you would have to wet sand by hand or machine (orbital buffer) from 1500 grit progressively down to about 3000 grit - 5000 grit. Afterwards, you would need an orbital buffer to buff it out , polish it and then wax it ! It would come out looking as good as ever ! Plus, in terms of materials, it would be way too cheap ! Of course, you need loads of time and patience for this !
Thanks
sandblast the existing paint and then shoot 1-2 layers of basecoat and then clearcoat. If you go by this route, I would suggest, atleast 5-6 layers of urethane clearcoat. Spraymax 2K is pretty good. Worst case, even if you used spraymax 2K clearcoat (aerosol spray can), there would be tremendous amount of orange peel, which you would have to wet sand by hand or machine (orbital buffer) from 1500 grit progressively down to about 3000 grit - 5000 grit. Afterwards, you would need an orbital buffer to buff it out , polish it and then wax it ! It would come out looking as good as ever ! Plus, in terms of materials, it would be way too cheap ! Of course, you need loads of time and patience for this !
Thanks
Trending Topics
#8
#9
The following users liked this post:
accounts2000 (02-13-2014)
#10
accounts2000, if you are talking about where the paint has turned white, then you are looking at having a shop respray the car assuming that they can use some polishing compound/lightly sand to get rid of the white (damaged clear coat). If they end up having to go below the color paint layer, then you are looking at having to have atleast the pieces painted with color and then clear coat the whole car.
You can try removing the white yourself using something like 3M Perfect-It III (Stage 1 or 2) and then taking your chances. Then all you would have to have done is the car clear coated.
Granted, I am making an assumption here. The best advice that I can say is to take it to a body shop and see what they say. But, I can almost garantee that they are going to see the Jag emblem and say something to the effect of "oh, this is bad and it needs a whole new paint job to the tune of ......". I would guess they are going to try and get your for somewhere in the neighborhood of $1500-2000.
You can try removing the white yourself using something like 3M Perfect-It III (Stage 1 or 2) and then taking your chances. Then all you would have to have done is the car clear coated.
Granted, I am making an assumption here. The best advice that I can say is to take it to a body shop and see what they say. But, I can almost garantee that they are going to see the Jag emblem and say something to the effect of "oh, this is bad and it needs a whole new paint job to the tune of ......". I would guess they are going to try and get your for somewhere in the neighborhood of $1500-2000.
l checked out x-kote which l now think may actually pull me out of it at 6 or 7 hundred bucks. But then whats the extra grand or 1300 to get the thing fully resprayed.? It's a tough call.l should try 3M perfect and see if it can do the job though agreed,its only 60 to 100 for the various types of it..but l'm a lazy slob on the weekends and it looks like it needs some elbow grease. l thought you could buy x-kote and put it on yourself,but they do it.
Yes well they see that emblem and bump up the price but you've got to weigh that up against the glory of driving a Jag haven't you.? The thugs in blue pulled me up the other night and seemed to get the impression l was filthy rich and made comments to the effect that the pots l'd picked up off the side of the road and thrown in the boot for the garden were actually part of a big dope harvest.
#11
If you have time to invest in, you could have a body shop
sandblast the existing paint and then shoot 1-2 layers of basecoat and then clearcoat. If you go by this route, I would suggest, atleast 5-6 layers of urethane clearcoat. Spraymax 2K is pretty good. Worst case, even if you used spraymax 2K clearcoat (aerosol spray can), there would be tremendous amount of orange peel, which you would have to wet sand by hand or machine (orbital buffer) from 1500 grit progressively down to about 3000 grit - 5000 grit. Afterwards, you would need an orbital buffer to buff it out , polish it and then wax it ! It would come out looking as good as ever ! Plus, in terms of materials, it would be way too cheap ! Of course, you need loads of time and patience for this !
Thanks
sandblast the existing paint and then shoot 1-2 layers of basecoat and then clearcoat. If you go by this route, I would suggest, atleast 5-6 layers of urethane clearcoat. Spraymax 2K is pretty good. Worst case, even if you used spraymax 2K clearcoat (aerosol spray can), there would be tremendous amount of orange peel, which you would have to wet sand by hand or machine (orbital buffer) from 1500 grit progressively down to about 3000 grit - 5000 grit. Afterwards, you would need an orbital buffer to buff it out , polish it and then wax it ! It would come out looking as good as ever ! Plus, in terms of materials, it would be way too cheap ! Of course, you need loads of time and patience for this !
Thanks
#12
The following users liked this post:
accounts2000 (02-13-2014)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vacolorito
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade or Buy Classifieds
0
09-25-2015 09:29 AM
Miles86XJ6
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
16
09-14-2015 01:08 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)