Tibbe key information
#1
01-31-2022, 02:58 PM
Tibbe key information
If this is of any value, go ahead and make it a sticky.
=========
Tibbe Key Jaguar INFO
1.
"WHAT'S A TIBBE KEY???"
Several models of Ford-era Jaguar use Tibbe keys, and so did several other Ford products over a roughly 25-year period.
The Tibbe key was an attempt to provide more security than standard blade keys of the time, simply because they require a special tool to pick or decode the lock. Unfortunately, they never got very popular, and the Tibbe became an evolutionary dead end.
WARNING: if you buy one of the pick/decoders, only use it in the DOOR lock. Never insert it in the ignition lock, which has a slightly different configuration and is likely to damage or even permanently trap the tool.
The lack of Tibbe popularity can pose a major problem for Jag buyers, who may find themselves with a single working key. Few locksmiths have the specialized equipment to cut Tibbe keys, and dealerships want massive amounts of money to order them from distribution.
The key itself is simple, with two primary designs. A rectangular block at the tip end of the key has multiple, flat cuts, each of a precise angle, and each cut is made on all four corners of the block. Early Tibbe keys in Jags had 8 cuts, while later keys had 6 cuts. The two types of key are not interchangeable.
One nice thing about the Tibbe key design is that a couple of good photos of the cuts will enable a locksmith to duplicate the key from a distance. The 3-cut key has 4 angles to choose from, and the 8-cut key only 3 angles. ANY Tibbe key will lock ANY Tibbe lock of the appropriate type. This means that the first time you try a Tibbe key in the door, be sure that you don't lock yourself out!
Few locksmiths do Tibbe keys, for two main reasons.
First, the specialized adapter kits cost a minimum of several hundred dollars, and won't work with the vast majority of key machines. Each Tibbe key has to be machined by "code," and the machines which can do this are far more expensive than the key duplicators that you see in most places. Since it is only used on a relative handful of vehicles, all of which have been out of production for years, it just isn't cost effective for most locksmiths to buy the kit. It also takes some effort to install the adapter kit onto the machine, thus the locksmith must either have a duplicate machine that can be dedicated to Tibbe keys, or go through the setup and adjustment procedure each time they switch back and forth between Tibbe keys and other types.
Second, there are up to 32 precise cuts that must be machined into every key, and a single error may require starting all over, with a new key blank!
And that's just dealing with the key itself. There are also keys specifically designed for Valet use (more about these later), some keys had remote control fobs, some had transponder chips . . .
It's no surprise that most locksmiths view inquiries about Tibbe keys with about the same enthusiasm that Dracula views an invitation to the Gilroy Garlic Festival.
This is why the first question that a new owner of a used Jag asks is where to GET more keys. Some new owners buy a key blank from Ebay, not realizing that the few locksmiths with the specialized equipment to cut them can generally supply anything from a "dead" key (without transponder) to a complete, ready-to-program flip key with fob. Of course, for an appropriate fee, your store-bought key blank can also be cut.
2. PROGRAMMING
Uh . . .what? "Ready-to-program"???
Okay, here comes the technical stuff . . .
Most cars with immobilizer systems need a chip in the ignition key. This is a tiny electronic TRANSmitter circuit (often in a glass tube) that reSPONDs (thus "Transponder") to a radio signal sent by a ring of wire that surrounds the ignition lock. The car's Electronic Control Unit sends a ping, and the transponder replies with a pulse holding a unique (kind of -- more later) identifier code. This code is a password, and if it agrees with a code stored in the ECU, the immobilizer unlocks so that the car can start.
Keyless door and ignition systems in newer cars work pretty much the same way. If a driver just walks up, the door unlocks, the engine starts and they drive away without touching a key, they are using a transponder like the one in your Jag key.
There is NO BATTERY needed for a transponder, the power is supplied by the ECU and the ident ring. It is rare for a transponder to fail unless it is physically damaged.
Most cars have several different ident codes that can be used, and with the appropriate software, new codes can be stored in the ECU. For instance, the ECU may be able to store 6 individual codes. Any transponder which sends any of these codes is accepted by the immobilizer.
The transponder is NOT related in ANY WAY to the flip key fob. The chip is physically installed in the fob shell, but the transponder and the fob are independent of each other, and do completely different things.
With me so far? We have a physical key that turns the lock (in this case, a Tibbe key), and a transponder which talks to the computer in the car. Transponders can usually be moved from one key or fob to another, the ECU doesn't know or care about anything other than having a correct ident code when it looks for one.
If you only have one transponder, and lose it, your car is down until you replace it AND reprogram the ECU to recognize the new key. This requires special software and a special electronic tool, and can only be done at the car (thus requiring an expensive field call). GUARD THAT ONE KEY!
A workaround to this problem is to remove the transponder chip from the key, and permanently install it in the steering column, where it will send the ident code when pinged. This has been done successfully by a number of people, and if you attempt it, be careful not to damage the chip in any way. This can save you some money in the long run, as only less expensive "dead" keys need to be bought.
The good news about this is that pretty much any locksmith who does auto keys can CLONE your existing transponder, even if they don't do Tibbe keys. This only requires reading the transponder with the appropriate device, then putting that code into another transponder. Now, you have two transponders which send the exact same "unique" code to the ECU. While the ECU can only store a few codes, there is no limit to the number of cloned transponders which can be used, because the ECU thinks that any or all of them are the original key. Fleet and rental-vehicle operators often have many keys with the same ident code, especially for keyed-alike vehicles.
What this means for the Jag owner is that they can order a replacement physical key from a distant source, and have a local locksmith make that key work with the car, all without sending that one working key on a risky trip across country! When I do Tibbe keys, my greatest fear is loss of the only key that an owner has, and the car is down until their key is returned to them. It's far better to find an auto-key smith who can clone the chip -- and they are far more likely to be willing to do so if you tell them that they don't have to provide the actual key, so show them the following:
==
1. I am having a duplicate Tibbe key produced by another locksmith, who is out of the area.
2. That locksmith says to find a local locksmith to CLONE the transponder in my original key.
3. You will NOT be held responsible for the key itself.
4. The XHorse Super Chip has worked for this, but this may not be the only one.
5. Therefore, what is needed is for you to READ the original chip and CLONE that code to another chip. This new chip will be installed in the new key or fob.
==
Pricing for this should be reasonable, as it only takes moments and the chips are common and not expensive -- but remember that you're not paying so much for what is being done or bought, you're paying for the skill and equipment that is necessary to do it. My suggestion is to have one chip cloned for each key that you are having done, plus at least one spare chip, but of course this depends on the cost.
3.
FOBS and VALETS
Okay, now we know what to do about the ignition key, and why you won't find a duplicate all that easy to get. How about the advanced stuff, like flip keys and the mysterious Valet key?
As mentioned above, the flip key fob operates independently of the key transponder. The fob is a simple radio transmitter, with several buttons. Push one, and the transmitter sends an ident code, plus a code telling the ECU what you want it to do.
Fobs can stop working for any number of reasons. They are water-resitant, but if the circuit board gets wet, the buttons don't work. There is a small battery inside, which eventually will need to be replaced, which may require that the car and fob be paired again so that they will work together. The procedures for pairing differ from vehicle to vehicle, but checking the forums will provide the info for your particular car type.
There are replacement fobs available, and it is also possible to replace just the key blade. This means that you can have a new key cut for an old fob, or if you buy a new fob, your existing key blade can be moved to the new fob -- assuming that both are OEM-type fobs (most are).
Valet keys are designed to provide limited access and functionality, when compared to standard keys. They may include some of the features of the key fob. Valet keys are also physically different from the standard keys, as they are missing a small profile which is cut into the tip of the key.
FORD TRANSIT VAN KEYS are also missing this small cut! Keys bought from ebay are likely to be Ford Transit.
That's the bad news -- the good news is that it's easy to add cuts to a Valet (or Transit) key to allow it to work as a normal key.
4.
PRICING
Pricing is a moving target. Only a handful of locksmiths do Tibbe keys, and each sets prices based on their own figuring of time, effort, costs of consumables and equipment, etc. Don't rely on earlier pricing that you might find -- contact them and check.
Dealers charge a lot because they can, and also because keys are really not a profit center for them. There may be one or two who cut keys in-house, but all that I know of simply order from their distribution channel. Either way, it costs them a lot to supply Tibbe keys, and they charge accordingly. Some simply don't want to mess with them at all, and if you go to your nearest Jag dealer, they may give you the name of a locksmith that they have worked with before. That smith may or may not pay a finder's fee to dealers who refer.
As mentioned above, Tibbe key cutting angles can often be determined with a couple of good, clear, close-up pics of the original key. The smith should discuss the cut codes with you, so that you both agree on the angles that your particular key needs. Once you have agreed, the locksmith's job is to provide the correct cuts . . .so if there is any question, you may need to send more pics.
Be patient -- even a professional locksmith may not get to custom key orders for several days after one arrives, and if they have to do setup and adjustment for each batch of Tibbe keys, they may do all such orders at one time every week or two. Part-time smiths get keys done after working regular jobs, or when they get back from spending days sick or away from home. And there is the annoyance of supply-chain issues, especially on uncommon key blanks like the Tibbe. The producers make them in batches, based on their estimate of the demand, and this may affect availability now and then.
Eventually, the prime producers will stop making Tibbe key blanks altogether, leaving only custom-CNC machine shops able to make them, which will likely cause prices to skyrocket. Fortunately, such a time is way off in the future.
5.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Hopefully, this has given you some useful information regarding the keys for our Jags. These are just one more little bit of the uniqueness that sets the Jaguar apart from other cars.
To recap:
NEVER insert a Tibbe pick/decoder tool into an IGNITION lock -- they are for door locks only.
Any Tibbe key will lock the same type (6- or 8-cut) of door lock. Precise angles of cuts in the key determine which locks it will open.
The Tibbe key is so unusual that few locksmiths will deal with them. Those who do may have extended delivery times.
Dealers are not your only (or necessarily even the best) source for new keys.
Transponders can be cloned by local locksmiths, and are completely independent of the fob functionality.
Fobs can be easily paired with cars, by their owners. Replacing a fob battery may require re-pairing.
=========
Tibbe Key Jaguar INFO
1.
"WHAT'S A TIBBE KEY???"
Several models of Ford-era Jaguar use Tibbe keys, and so did several other Ford products over a roughly 25-year period.
The Tibbe key was an attempt to provide more security than standard blade keys of the time, simply because they require a special tool to pick or decode the lock. Unfortunately, they never got very popular, and the Tibbe became an evolutionary dead end.
WARNING: if you buy one of the pick/decoders, only use it in the DOOR lock. Never insert it in the ignition lock, which has a slightly different configuration and is likely to damage or even permanently trap the tool.
The lack of Tibbe popularity can pose a major problem for Jag buyers, who may find themselves with a single working key. Few locksmiths have the specialized equipment to cut Tibbe keys, and dealerships want massive amounts of money to order them from distribution.
The key itself is simple, with two primary designs. A rectangular block at the tip end of the key has multiple, flat cuts, each of a precise angle, and each cut is made on all four corners of the block. Early Tibbe keys in Jags had 8 cuts, while later keys had 6 cuts. The two types of key are not interchangeable.
One nice thing about the Tibbe key design is that a couple of good photos of the cuts will enable a locksmith to duplicate the key from a distance. The 3-cut key has 4 angles to choose from, and the 8-cut key only 3 angles. ANY Tibbe key will lock ANY Tibbe lock of the appropriate type. This means that the first time you try a Tibbe key in the door, be sure that you don't lock yourself out!
Few locksmiths do Tibbe keys, for two main reasons.
First, the specialized adapter kits cost a minimum of several hundred dollars, and won't work with the vast majority of key machines. Each Tibbe key has to be machined by "code," and the machines which can do this are far more expensive than the key duplicators that you see in most places. Since it is only used on a relative handful of vehicles, all of which have been out of production for years, it just isn't cost effective for most locksmiths to buy the kit. It also takes some effort to install the adapter kit onto the machine, thus the locksmith must either have a duplicate machine that can be dedicated to Tibbe keys, or go through the setup and adjustment procedure each time they switch back and forth between Tibbe keys and other types.
Second, there are up to 32 precise cuts that must be machined into every key, and a single error may require starting all over, with a new key blank!
And that's just dealing with the key itself. There are also keys specifically designed for Valet use (more about these later), some keys had remote control fobs, some had transponder chips . . .
It's no surprise that most locksmiths view inquiries about Tibbe keys with about the same enthusiasm that Dracula views an invitation to the Gilroy Garlic Festival.
This is why the first question that a new owner of a used Jag asks is where to GET more keys. Some new owners buy a key blank from Ebay, not realizing that the few locksmiths with the specialized equipment to cut them can generally supply anything from a "dead" key (without transponder) to a complete, ready-to-program flip key with fob. Of course, for an appropriate fee, your store-bought key blank can also be cut.
2. PROGRAMMING
Uh . . .what? "Ready-to-program"???
Okay, here comes the technical stuff . . .
Most cars with immobilizer systems need a chip in the ignition key. This is a tiny electronic TRANSmitter circuit (often in a glass tube) that reSPONDs (thus "Transponder") to a radio signal sent by a ring of wire that surrounds the ignition lock. The car's Electronic Control Unit sends a ping, and the transponder replies with a pulse holding a unique (kind of -- more later) identifier code. This code is a password, and if it agrees with a code stored in the ECU, the immobilizer unlocks so that the car can start.
Keyless door and ignition systems in newer cars work pretty much the same way. If a driver just walks up, the door unlocks, the engine starts and they drive away without touching a key, they are using a transponder like the one in your Jag key.
There is NO BATTERY needed for a transponder, the power is supplied by the ECU and the ident ring. It is rare for a transponder to fail unless it is physically damaged.
Most cars have several different ident codes that can be used, and with the appropriate software, new codes can be stored in the ECU. For instance, the ECU may be able to store 6 individual codes. Any transponder which sends any of these codes is accepted by the immobilizer.
The transponder is NOT related in ANY WAY to the flip key fob. The chip is physically installed in the fob shell, but the transponder and the fob are independent of each other, and do completely different things.
With me so far? We have a physical key that turns the lock (in this case, a Tibbe key), and a transponder which talks to the computer in the car. Transponders can usually be moved from one key or fob to another, the ECU doesn't know or care about anything other than having a correct ident code when it looks for one.
If you only have one transponder, and lose it, your car is down until you replace it AND reprogram the ECU to recognize the new key. This requires special software and a special electronic tool, and can only be done at the car (thus requiring an expensive field call). GUARD THAT ONE KEY!
A workaround to this problem is to remove the transponder chip from the key, and permanently install it in the steering column, where it will send the ident code when pinged. This has been done successfully by a number of people, and if you attempt it, be careful not to damage the chip in any way. This can save you some money in the long run, as only less expensive "dead" keys need to be bought.
The good news about this is that pretty much any locksmith who does auto keys can CLONE your existing transponder, even if they don't do Tibbe keys. This only requires reading the transponder with the appropriate device, then putting that code into another transponder. Now, you have two transponders which send the exact same "unique" code to the ECU. While the ECU can only store a few codes, there is no limit to the number of cloned transponders which can be used, because the ECU thinks that any or all of them are the original key. Fleet and rental-vehicle operators often have many keys with the same ident code, especially for keyed-alike vehicles.
What this means for the Jag owner is that they can order a replacement physical key from a distant source, and have a local locksmith make that key work with the car, all without sending that one working key on a risky trip across country! When I do Tibbe keys, my greatest fear is loss of the only key that an owner has, and the car is down until their key is returned to them. It's far better to find an auto-key smith who can clone the chip -- and they are far more likely to be willing to do so if you tell them that they don't have to provide the actual key, so show them the following:
==
1. I am having a duplicate Tibbe key produced by another locksmith, who is out of the area.
2. That locksmith says to find a local locksmith to CLONE the transponder in my original key.
3. You will NOT be held responsible for the key itself.
4. The XHorse Super Chip has worked for this, but this may not be the only one.
5. Therefore, what is needed is for you to READ the original chip and CLONE that code to another chip. This new chip will be installed in the new key or fob.
==
Pricing for this should be reasonable, as it only takes moments and the chips are common and not expensive -- but remember that you're not paying so much for what is being done or bought, you're paying for the skill and equipment that is necessary to do it. My suggestion is to have one chip cloned for each key that you are having done, plus at least one spare chip, but of course this depends on the cost.
3.
FOBS and VALETS
Okay, now we know what to do about the ignition key, and why you won't find a duplicate all that easy to get. How about the advanced stuff, like flip keys and the mysterious Valet key?
As mentioned above, the flip key fob operates independently of the key transponder. The fob is a simple radio transmitter, with several buttons. Push one, and the transmitter sends an ident code, plus a code telling the ECU what you want it to do.
Fobs can stop working for any number of reasons. They are water-resitant, but if the circuit board gets wet, the buttons don't work. There is a small battery inside, which eventually will need to be replaced, which may require that the car and fob be paired again so that they will work together. The procedures for pairing differ from vehicle to vehicle, but checking the forums will provide the info for your particular car type.
There are replacement fobs available, and it is also possible to replace just the key blade. This means that you can have a new key cut for an old fob, or if you buy a new fob, your existing key blade can be moved to the new fob -- assuming that both are OEM-type fobs (most are).
Valet keys are designed to provide limited access and functionality, when compared to standard keys. They may include some of the features of the key fob. Valet keys are also physically different from the standard keys, as they are missing a small profile which is cut into the tip of the key.
FORD TRANSIT VAN KEYS are also missing this small cut! Keys bought from ebay are likely to be Ford Transit.
That's the bad news -- the good news is that it's easy to add cuts to a Valet (or Transit) key to allow it to work as a normal key.
4.
PRICING
Pricing is a moving target. Only a handful of locksmiths do Tibbe keys, and each sets prices based on their own figuring of time, effort, costs of consumables and equipment, etc. Don't rely on earlier pricing that you might find -- contact them and check.
Dealers charge a lot because they can, and also because keys are really not a profit center for them. There may be one or two who cut keys in-house, but all that I know of simply order from their distribution channel. Either way, it costs them a lot to supply Tibbe keys, and they charge accordingly. Some simply don't want to mess with them at all, and if you go to your nearest Jag dealer, they may give you the name of a locksmith that they have worked with before. That smith may or may not pay a finder's fee to dealers who refer.
As mentioned above, Tibbe key cutting angles can often be determined with a couple of good, clear, close-up pics of the original key. The smith should discuss the cut codes with you, so that you both agree on the angles that your particular key needs. Once you have agreed, the locksmith's job is to provide the correct cuts . . .so if there is any question, you may need to send more pics.
Be patient -- even a professional locksmith may not get to custom key orders for several days after one arrives, and if they have to do setup and adjustment for each batch of Tibbe keys, they may do all such orders at one time every week or two. Part-time smiths get keys done after working regular jobs, or when they get back from spending days sick or away from home. And there is the annoyance of supply-chain issues, especially on uncommon key blanks like the Tibbe. The producers make them in batches, based on their estimate of the demand, and this may affect availability now and then.
Eventually, the prime producers will stop making Tibbe key blanks altogether, leaving only custom-CNC machine shops able to make them, which will likely cause prices to skyrocket. Fortunately, such a time is way off in the future.
5.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Hopefully, this has given you some useful information regarding the keys for our Jags. These are just one more little bit of the uniqueness that sets the Jaguar apart from other cars.
To recap:
NEVER insert a Tibbe pick/decoder tool into an IGNITION lock -- they are for door locks only.
Any Tibbe key will lock the same type (6- or 8-cut) of door lock. Precise angles of cuts in the key determine which locks it will open.
The Tibbe key is so unusual that few locksmiths will deal with them. Those who do may have extended delivery times.
Dealers are not your only (or necessarily even the best) source for new keys.
Transponders can be cloned by local locksmiths, and are completely independent of the fob functionality.
Fobs can be easily paired with cars, by their owners. Replacing a fob battery may require re-pairing.
The following 3 users liked this post by Sone:
#2
02-01-2022, 02:21 AM
#4
02-08-2022, 01:13 PM
Veteran Member
#5
02-20-2022, 03:29 PM
#6
02-20-2022, 08:15 PM
The following users liked this post:
RudyF6 (02-25-2022)
#7
02-20-2022, 08:37 PM
just saved me from ripping the barrel out.
Trending Topics
#8
02-21-2022, 09:16 AM
Veteran Member
#11
03-01-2022, 09:54 PM
#12
04-16-2022, 02:54 PM
To be more accurate, it hasn't been smoothed.
This can be done with a piece of sandpaper, a buffing wheel, valve lapping compound, or pretty much anything else that will smooth that edge.
This can be done with a piece of sandpaper, a buffing wheel, valve lapping compound, or pretty much anything else that will smooth that edge.
#14
04-16-2022, 03:08 PM
#15
04-16-2022, 03:30 PM
#16
04-16-2022, 03:37 PM
The Tibbe lock is a disc-detainer type -- there are flat metal plates, which the angled cuts on the key act against.
The problem with removing the key is when the cuts are sharp enough to catch against one of the discs, or the dust shield. By very slightly rounding the edge of the cut, you make it easy for the key to move the discs, rather than hanging up. The cuts in the key will still work the innards of the lock properly.
The problem with removing the key is when the cuts are sharp enough to catch against one of the discs, or the dust shield. By very slightly rounding the edge of the cut, you make it easy for the key to move the discs, rather than hanging up. The cuts in the key will still work the innards of the lock properly.
The following users liked this post:
xalty (04-16-2022)
#18
09-26-2023, 11:14 PM
Someone asked why I (and other locksmiths who do Tibbe keys) charge so much for them.
First, it's to pay off the machine and adapter necessary to cut Tibbe keys -- up to a couple of thousand dollars.
Second, it's because Tibbe keys are very labor-intensive. Unlike your house key, that can be duplicated in 30 seconds on an automatic machine by the clerk at the hardware or department store, whoever is doing the cutting has to actually do the work. This means precisely cutting up to 32 cuts on the key, and a single cut which is too deep (say, a "4" where a "3" was needed) means starting all over with another key blank. Imagine the joy in a key-cutter's heart when this happens!
Third, until you try the key and say that it's working, we just stress over the possibility that we decoded the original key wrong, or that we were a millimeter off in loading and adjusting the key in the machine, or that the key was inserted in the machine just slightly too far or not far enough . . .or, maybe, the lock has worn to the point where a precision cut to code ALMOST works . . .
Other charges may apply, such as when 8-cut keys cost a couple of bucks more than 6-cut keys. Fob keys cost a little more, for the labor (and yet another tool) needed to remove and insert the blade for cutting, and for installing transponder chips. There is yet another cost to program and install transponders, whatever the key.
So, no, it's not going to be as cheap as cutting a house key. I think I'm speaking not only for myself, but for the handful of other people who cut Tibbe keys when I say that, for what we're doing, the rates are reasonable. Out of the thousands of locksmiths in the United States, there are only a handful who will cut Tibbe keys, simply because there's pretty much NO PROFIT in them. I got started with them because I needed a couple done, and the price for them from the dealership was a large chunk of the cost of buying the stuff and doing it myself -- so I came at it from the opposite direction, becoming a full, licensed locksmith because I was doing Tibbe keys! I now get referrals from dealers and other locksmiths, just because they really really really don't want to mess with these things.
I hope that this explains things well enough that you don't think you're being gouged because it's a niche market. I think my prices are below those of the other people doing these, but we are all in the same general price range, because we all have the same issues doing these.
First, it's to pay off the machine and adapter necessary to cut Tibbe keys -- up to a couple of thousand dollars.
Second, it's because Tibbe keys are very labor-intensive. Unlike your house key, that can be duplicated in 30 seconds on an automatic machine by the clerk at the hardware or department store, whoever is doing the cutting has to actually do the work. This means precisely cutting up to 32 cuts on the key, and a single cut which is too deep (say, a "4" where a "3" was needed) means starting all over with another key blank. Imagine the joy in a key-cutter's heart when this happens!
Third, until you try the key and say that it's working, we just stress over the possibility that we decoded the original key wrong, or that we were a millimeter off in loading and adjusting the key in the machine, or that the key was inserted in the machine just slightly too far or not far enough . . .or, maybe, the lock has worn to the point where a precision cut to code ALMOST works . . .
Other charges may apply, such as when 8-cut keys cost a couple of bucks more than 6-cut keys. Fob keys cost a little more, for the labor (and yet another tool) needed to remove and insert the blade for cutting, and for installing transponder chips. There is yet another cost to program and install transponders, whatever the key.
So, no, it's not going to be as cheap as cutting a house key. I think I'm speaking not only for myself, but for the handful of other people who cut Tibbe keys when I say that, for what we're doing, the rates are reasonable. Out of the thousands of locksmiths in the United States, there are only a handful who will cut Tibbe keys, simply because there's pretty much NO PROFIT in them. I got started with them because I needed a couple done, and the price for them from the dealership was a large chunk of the cost of buying the stuff and doing it myself -- so I came at it from the opposite direction, becoming a full, licensed locksmith because I was doing Tibbe keys! I now get referrals from dealers and other locksmiths, just because they really really really don't want to mess with these things.
I hope that this explains things well enough that you don't think you're being gouged because it's a niche market. I think my prices are below those of the other people doing these, but we are all in the same general price range, because we all have the same issues doing these.
#19
10-11-2023, 06:16 PM
#20
10-13-2023, 07:24 PM
The key is $39 + $7 for shipping ($10 for 2 or more). Your car probably has a transponder, so do you want to check with local locksmiths about programming, or send me a working key so that I can clone the chip for you ($45)?
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