I just purchased the Cam Timing Tools to do the tensioners, chains, guides etc. on my car. I have two Cam Locking Bars (Camshaft setting tool), the Crankshaft setting/lockdown, two Primary Timing Chain Wedges and the Chain Tensioning tool. These cost me $410 plus shipping. Typically when you rent them, say from Motorcars LTD, you only get one Cam lockdown bar and they charge $125 plus a big deposit.

The job is not that difficult but it is involved. This Forum has excellent articles plus other sources that gave me the to courage to do it myself. I saved over $1300 in labor. Now I'd like to recoup some of the cost for the tools. Contact me at "ssmoleroff@aol.com".

 

Hey I was curious how long it took you to do the job? I am very inexperienced with this type of work btw.

Thanks!

 

I did the secondary tentioners with tie wraps but you do have to have some knowledge of how a gas engine functions and what not to do so you don't mess up the timing. The exhaust cam is all you deal with and it has to go back exactly the way it was befour you started the project . This was done on the 2000 4.0 engine.

 

It took me 4 hours to take everything apart, change the tensioners and get everything back together. While a reasonably experienced amateur mechanic I had never done Jaguar tensioners before. Nothing difficult. Biggest issue I had was getting the oil level tube back into the block. It has to be removed in order to remove one of the valve cover bolts.

While the zip tie method works the Jaguar tool set ensures that the valve timing will be correct. One or two degrees is a lot as far as the valve timing goes (IMO).

 

How long of a job is it to remove what is needed to check to see if the tensioners have been replaced and are in good condition? What tools would be needed for that job?

Thanks

 

One hour. And I would select the right side due to the above mentioned oil level tube. Only tools are a set of 1/4" drive metric sockets and maybe a Philips screwdriver.

 

Does anyone have a link to a video or two of how to check or fix the tensioners?

If I check the right side can I see everything I need to make a decision on if they have been changed or in good shape to leave be?

Is there one or two tensioners with the plastic that is the problem?

Thanks!

 

The FAQ section has very good pictures and instructions that I submitted. There are other articles in the FAQ as well. The job is not particularly difficult but it is not easy either. It just takes time and patience. While it is mainly the secondary tensioners that deteriorate (cracked body and worn chain guide surface), I am not in agreement with a lot of the forum members that advocate just replacing the secondary tensioners. Granted, it is emmensly easier to just replace those components, but the chain guides also deteriorate and can disintgrate, and the chains stretch with higher mileage. The primary tensioners are not as failure prone but if doing the whole job then they should be replaced also. I did everything including replacing the crank damper seal, spark plugs, valve cover seals etc., and removed the hood for easier access. It took me a weekend to get it all done. But I have peace of mind, the secondary tensioners were on the verge of failure and the chain guides were severly worn @ 65k miles. I have the specail tools needed, instructions and am willing to answer any questions. You will need a torque wrench, 10mm hex bit/socket, damper puller and standard hand tools metric wrenches etc. PS my engine is SC and was a little more involved. PM me if you want further guidance. You will get many opinions on whether it is neccessary to replace primary tensioners and guides, as well as the chains. If you are going to keep the car for years to come then of course I advocate doing it all right the first time.

 

What tensioners can be seen from the right side?

Any special tools needed to just see the condition of them?

An hour to take apart and an hour back together?

Thanks!

 

without removing timing cover. I realize I will have to retime the cam.
A good picture would answer a lot of these questions, maybe!

 

Guys:

No special tools are required doing this job.

You really need to read the documentation on this website on changing the secondary tensioners. Many people have put in a lot of effort and great detail to help the rest of us neophytes to do this job without having to shell out $1800 to a Jag dealership. It just isn't that hard of a job for the backyard mechanic. Many have paid unreasonable profits to get this job done.

Now, if you needed to change the primary chains, guides and tensioners, it's a much bigger job and the full set of cam lockdown tools would be needed. You've essentially got to pull the whole front of the engine apart.

That said. Please note that you should wait until you visibly inspect the secondary tensioners before ordering parts. You might have the metal tensioners already. If you bought it used, or if the documentation has not been provided, it's a crap shoot.

Other items to address are the thermostat housing and the water pump. Are they both metal? If not, they need to be changed. With the thermostat housing, also change the thermostat. The radiator hoses and the serpentine belt tensioner need to be inspected, as the tensioners sometimes have bearing failures. (These are all relatively inexpensive maintenance items that could cause problems down the line.)

Kinda like opening up a can of worms, huh?