Anyone know how I can remove the ABS module and trick the other modules so that can see it’s still connected ?
Dash shows up a warning as soon as the plug is removed , so there must be a way to give the plug the correct inputs so the other modules think it’s connected ?

 

It is part of the CAN bus.
All the modules want to know SPEED INPUT,
Your INSTPK will NOT display SPEED as well as info regarding fuel usage etc.

Why don't you want the module in the network?

 

I’m removing the engine and gearbox to fit in to my 1967 F100 … which won’t be having ABS
I won’t be using the instrument pack either. Will use the F100 instruments , fuel and temp will be easy, haven’t figured out the mechanical Speedo yet !
i’m using the OE XJR ECU & loom, currently removing the wiring harness and disconnecting everything I dont need.
I presume if the ABS removal is showing as a fault it will go in to restricted performance ?

 

David, you may find that spending $3000 on an aftermarket ECU may be money well spent. This will give you enough adaption to allow you to power the motor and use all the electronics yet not require things like the ABS to control things. Depending on the aftermarket ECU that you are using, it will have a mechanical to electronic setup for the aftermarket ECU to measure speed. The ECU will come with its own screen that you can adapt into the cluster of the F100.

 

Yes, I run an aftermarket OMEX ECU on my Turbocharged Triumph TR4. It does as I have found out however, take hours of mapping to get an aftermarket ECU to have the driveability of an OE ECU. Not surprising really as OE Manufacturers spend hours mapping their engines !
So an aftermarket ECU is my contingency, but I’d really like to get it running on the OE Engine & Gearbox ECU

 

Main question is, does removing ABS, Traction & Stability control put the Engine ECU into restricted performance ?
if it just disables those systems and puts an error on the dash, then it won’t matter to me !

 

So made some progress, have stripped out most the modules , relays and fuses that I dont need
Instrument pack, engine & transmission ECU and Abs module remaining.
Dash is showing lots of faults such as doors & boot open, but no Traction, stability fail or restricted performance
Engine and gearbox operating perfectly
Next task is to strip out all the wires that are not required to thin down the loom
So my options are to fit ABS to the truck which would mean fitting 4 wheel speed sensors, or find a way to get the gearbox a speed input from somewhere else

 

I would listen to Thermo. There is no way to "remove" the ABS from the Jaguar system. If you had something with a lot of aftermarket support then maybe. In the US if it's a GM or Ford V-8 then yes lots of aftermarket stuff and you can delete pretty much everything.

Over here if doing something off the wall like your doing I would forget using any of the Jaguar electronics and use something like a Megasquirt kit. They also have a forum and IF your very lucky you might find someone on there that has done a Jaguar engine. I have seen several 4.2L SC V-8's installed in street rods using after market electronics. Unfortunately I never got to talk to anyone who did it. Just saw pictures.
Megasquirt

How are you going to handle the security system stuff?

Most guys now use a GPS speedo and use that output to feed the ECU speed data. What's nice about that is since it's GPS you tire and wheel size make no difference and you can run whatever you want and your speed is still accurate. It solves a number of problems.
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Still keen to use the OE ECUs if I can as to go aftermarket it’s both an engine and gearbox ECU , so costly and will take a long time mapping to get it as refined as production ECUs.

So far so good, most the modules, relays and fuses removed , still running fine,
as for security, all the central locking stuff has gone, I have retained the ignition induction loop, key, and key transponder module.

will need to retain the instrument pack as it’s linked to the remaining modules , and useful for diagnostics. but this will be hidden away behind the dash.

I want to retain the existing Ford F100 mechanical speedo. There are electronic to mechanical drivers available :
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index....rod/prd886.htm

The ABS is the biggest issue, I could fit 4 wheel speed sensors to the F100 with a little bit of fabrication
my concern is how will the ABS MODULE cope with a different pressures front and rear. I need to valve down the rear line(s) as I have Drum brakes on the rear
Potentially I could use the ABS MODULE to provide speed to the gearbox, but not actually connect the brake lines to it .

i work at Jaguar Landrover so am able to get some support, it’s just finding the guys that worked on these back in the day !

 

An alternative, if you are ok with electronics, would be to make an ABS module emulator to generate the ABS CANbus messages, and take input from whatever you will use to measure the road speed, if you don't want to use the existing ABS wheel sensors. Plenty of information on the CANbus messages and formats, at least for the AJ27, on the X100 forum, and I believe the AJ26 is extremely similar, if not the same. You could likely not bother with the traction control and probably distance/speed messages (unless the ECM or INST modules really needs the latter), and just generate the wheel speed messages, and the heartbeat message, for the ECM/TCM/INST module.

 

I might be wrong here,but, I think you are screwed because the modern day control units use a 3D map to determine gears and which one to be in. The 3 axis are load, engine RPM, and vehicle speed. The load and engine RPM are easy things to get, but the speed is taken from the ABS unit where it takes the 4 wheels speed inputs, averages them and then puts that out there for the other computers to use. So, your trick would be to find some module that you can then get into the logic of the ECU to feed that input into the system. I am sure there is a way, but you have to determine the point that the vehicle speed is stored at and recreate that. Not knowing much beyond that with vehicle computers, this is where my help stops. That is why I am thinking the aftermarket world is the way to go. I am sure if you can get into the factory computers and get an idea of how they programmed the shift tables, then cloning them shouldn't take all that long.

 

David, I am planning something similar to what you are doing, but I am looking at taking a modern day F-150 (say a 2018) that has been wrecked and stripping the body off and then putting a classic F-100/F-150 body on it. From there, I can reuse a lot of the computers, but even with that setup, I was looking at going with an aftermarket ECU because I figured it would just make the wiring and whatnot more simple because the number of computers would be limited to pretty much only the ECU and the TCU (if there was one). My current plan is to get an F-150 with the 5.0 V8 and then get my hands on a Roush Stage 3 supercharger. That would push the motor up to the 750 hp range which I think would be more than adequate for that truck. Having the classic body would then let me fit everything under the hood and keep it looking clean. The biggest problem I am finding with that setup is having to shorten the frame 5 inches to make the wheels fit in the wheel wells correctly. But, that isn't that big of a challenge to get around.

 

Well it's just a suggestion - I've done something simpler, but basic principles are the same, in manipulating the ABS CANbus messages to enable a different axle ratio to be used without reprogramming the TCM, but each to their own.....

 

Thermo if you have not seen this project you should. This is pretty much a complete install of a 2011 Ford Eco-Boost into a 1966 Ford F-100. I mean EVERYTHING. Including the dash board and every last electronic device from the 2011 F-150 with the 3.5L Twin Turbo drive train. Pretty amazing level of work and that thread is now at 185 pages!!

1966 F-100 Rebuild
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So how do you do that?
My 12v electrics is good, but getting a little lost with CAN
still trying to decide if I should make something off the prop, cause it’s easier, or start engineering a wheel speed sensor to each corner on the truck

 

There’s a company called OFGEAR, that do an aftermarket gearbox controller and they take a speed input from the prop,
im still planning to use the OE engine & gearbox ECU,s , but could use this a simple method to get the speed input ?

 

David, I think it really depends on how you input the information. If you are looking to input this sensor in where the individual wheel sensors were, then odds are, it will not work (or your speedo will be way off). If their box will tap into the CAN Bus and put the speed signal there, then you would be golden. The issue with feeding the signal directly to the old ABS unit would be the number of pulses you would get would be different So, the ABS unit would be thinking you are doing say 20 mph when in reality you are doing 60. Now, you could make up for this by adding more magnets to this aftermarket unit to increase the number of pulses, but how many you would need? I have not got a clue. Not sure if there is somewhere that you can find out the number of teeth on the ring gear inside the wheel bearings.

I guess there is another option, itis used by the 4x4ers that when they put large tires on their trucks, they tap this box into their ABS electrical lines and you can program it to take 1 input pulse and output however many you want (from say 0.4 to 3.0, not sure of the exact capabilities). That may be the converter that you need. From there, you wire this driveshaft sensor to all four inputs, then you would have your isolated inputs to the ABS unit.

 

What you are after is something like this:

Hypertech In-Line Speedometer Calibrator Module - 730123 | 4wheelparts.com

You would possibly have to do some modification to whatever you get as I doubt there is something specific to the Jag, let alone to what you are doing specifically. Granted, a store like this may also have something in their "bag of tricks" if you tell them that you are making a buggy for in the woods and you want to have a general idea of how fast you are going, but you only have the drive shaft to mount something to for speed input. See what they say.

 

Hi Chris, yeah, not planning to use the OFGEAR box, but maybe their idea of a prop mounted speed sensor
and yes, I recognise I would have to calculate the number of teeth back from the rolling radius of the XJR tyres, & F100 tyres, plus the diff ratio to equal that of the ABS ring so that wheel speed was correct , and then multiply this signal x 4 to feed all wheel speed inputs to the ABS unit.
So in principal I think that would work! Especially if there is a way to alter the signal like the 4x4ers do, so it can be fine tuned.
I am coming around to thinking it may just be simpler to fit 4 wheels speed sensors !!!

 

David, the 4 wheel speed sensors should not be that hard. A new rear axle and then new spindles that work with the A-arms. Granted, may be just as easy to transfer A-arms, spindle, and rear axle from the donor vehicle. Minimal welding of new posts for the A-arms to frame. But, that would be about it. Adapting the steering would be easy.