Robert,

It's an odd size not included as standard in most socket sets - 9mm hex key on the Guide Pins. 15 mm bolts for the caliper bracket. A socket and breaker bar needed on these bracket bolts - a ring spanner doesn't give sufficient leverage.

Graham

 

Hi Graham
i i致e just received the calipers back and I知 hoping to fit them on Saturday is it a difficult job to re-calibrate them?
i知 quite pleased with the price it cost ｣200 for the pair, new seals A new piston in one blasted and painted and posted back to me so quite reasonable really
hope you can advise
thanks bobby

 

Bobby,

That's a very reasonable price.

Re-fitting is straightforward but bleeding either needs an assistant pedal pusher/reservoir filler, EasiBleed for solo working or Speed Bleeders on the calipers.

Graham

 

I知 pretty confident of doing it I知 just not sure about the calibration of the pads due to me not disconnecting the battery is there any threads covering it
thanks bobby

 

Ah - most don't disconnect the battery.

When the battery is disconnected, the actuator loses its position memory. When the battery is re-connected and ignition switched ON, the message 'APPLY FOOT AND PARK BRAKE' will be displayed in the IP message center indicating the park brake requires resetting.

To reset the park brake, press and hold the foot brake. While holding the foot brake in position, move the park brake switch to the 'Apply' position.

Here's a relevant thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-232182/

Graham

 

[QUOTE=GGG;2348608]Wanna bet!
When I upgraded the rear brakes on my F-Type from 325 mm to 376 mm I ordered new crush washers from my local JLR dealership and they never got back to me, never mind the ridiculous price they wanted to charge ($9 for each tiny little washer IIRC).
I shopped around for other suppliers but I couldn't find any here in Oz and it was an urgent job as the car was up on axle stands with the rear brakes still not fully fitted and it is/was my only car.
So I MacGuyvered it - I simply filed off the small ridges on the inside edges of the old crush washers, hey presto perfect fit and perfect seals. But I did need to add a 1 mm thick washer on the outside of each banjo bolt, and do them up really effing tight, before I had zero leaks.
That was nearly three years ago and no problems or leaks since.

 

thanks for the links
I致e got a feeling the copper crush washers arnt going to arrive for tomorrow is there a alternative? Fibre washer or similar, or if I go to a local car spares shop what痴 the actual size of the washer please
thanks bobby

 

A fibre washer is not suitable for the fluid or the pressure and I certainly wouldn't condone the Antipodean blacksmith's technique. Clearly the torque required vastly exceeds the IQ.

Take the Banjo bolt with you to help selection. The important dimension is the internal diameter and the same is used in several applications. The internal diameter is 10 mm and the external is 15 mm:





JLR supply in packs of two at 3.24 UKP and delivery is quick (I ordered a valve stem kit recently and it arrived the following day). However, the P&P would cost more than the washers.




I've seen several listed on ebay at lower cost and free P&P.

Graham

 

Graham,
I have great respect for you and I was going to let this one go through to the keeper, but I have changed my mind.
I suspect a little more info/explanation may help.
As I said I was in a fairly desperate spot with no way to get new crush washers.
At the time I even put the brakes back together, knowing there was a small/slow fluid leak, so I could drive the 2 km to the auto parts store in the hope of finding replacement crush washers.
No go, they had nothing even close to the correct size.
So I put my thinking cap on and decided to try filing the ridges off the old washers and re-use them.
That seemed to work except there was still a very small leak from one of the calipers.
So I took the calipers off again and figured that the crush washers needed some help to get enough pressure to properly seal, hence I added a 1 mm washer to the outside of the banjo bolt each side.
Once I did this I could feel the washers "gripping" when I did the bolts up really tight, and there were no more signs of any leaks.
I monitored the rear brakes for leaks after every drive for the next two weeks, and then every week or so for the next three months, and there was still no sign of any leaks.
That was nearly three years ago now and the brakes have remained perfect, with zero sign of any leaks and zero drop of brake fluid level in the reservoir.

 

thank again Graham, I知 going over to jlr in preston later today to collect the washers as suspected they never arrived only a 30 minute drive so hopefully I値l be back on the road later today, any recommendations for the brake fluid? Thanks bobby
I値l try and take a picture of the refurbished caliper refurbished by Calipology Limited

 

It does and I appreciate you expanding on the details.

I very nearly deleted your original post but you are a well established member with a very high post count and I therefore left it.

We cannot condone methods or techniques which either:
1. have a risk of injury to the individual whilst carrying out a repair, or
2. pose a subsequent potential safety impact when the vehicle is used.

As I read your post, I appreciated the circumstances of time and availability had practically forced you into finding a workaround. As far as that goes, it is sensible and acceptable. However, the way you wrote the text following describing your solution reads as a recommendation to use the same solution. It is not good engineering practice as massively over-tightening a steel banjo into a cast caliper body could very easily crack the caliper.

Neither time nor cost limitations can really apply to the Robert Bradshaw's situation. This question was posted almost a month ago giving plenty of time to obtain the correct crush washers which although expensive, are not much money in the overall cost of the repair. In any event, England is in Covid-19 lockdown and the opportunities for driving are very limited.

I would have been much more comfortable with your post had you suggested it was an "emergency" or "last resort" solution.

Graham

 

Good luck. The Parts Department and Showroom at my local Stratstone Jaguar in Houghton-le-Spring has been closed to customers since the first lockdown.

JLR use Shell Dot 4 brake fluid. I've always used Castrol products and use their Dot 4 which meets the same specification. It's specification that counts - brand is a personal choice.

Graham

 

Hi Graham this is the only one I can get today is it suitable being synthetic Thanks bobby

 

Bobby,

That's probably closer to specification than the one I'm using. Here's the relevant section from the Workshop Manual:





I've attached the Technical Data Sheet for the recommended Shell ESL Super Dot 4 and it lists the same standards shown on that Comma Dot 4 ESP label.

Graham

 

Hi Graham
I知 having trouble getting any fluid to come through the bleed nipples
also the brake pipes have been left open for 3weeks would this of caused any problems/damage? I read something about the abs getting air locked or the proportional valve getting stuck (whatever that is ) will I need to start it up ? And advise would be very welcome
thanks bobby

 

Bobby,

You should be able to get fluid through without starting the engine although you may need to open one front and one rear to get the flow started if you didn't block off the outlets and let the fluid drain. Check the attached procedure.

Graham

 

Thanks Graham that actually sounds like something I can follow! I was expecting some really hard to follow process 👍👍👍

 

A Gunson EeeziBleed kit makes bleeding a lot easier - one person operation.




It runs off tyre pressure - the black tube connects to the front RH tyre valve to provide compressed air. There's more sophisticated solutions available but this one is cheap and effective.

Graham

 

hi Graham it痴 still not bleeding I bought the kit and used it but only a trickle came out, I知 stumped! Any suggestions welcome
thanks bobby

 

Bobby,

Soft pedal going down to the floor or hard pedal?

Graham