Has any one tried this I just want to get rid of it.

 

Not directly, but know a tuner that has a good understanding of the Jaguar Denso chip that tried, as I wanted this also, but so far no luck.

The difficulty is that the ECU (from the 4.2 engines) verifies if the EGR is working by checking the pressure in the intake elbow.

 

I knew you were going to answer this. I have researched two ways to do this.
First is by setting the functions for the egr higher in the tune. by activating the EGR valve at lets say 255mph or a crazy psi level. Then the ECU will never send out a signal so it will not activate and in return you never get a code.

Second is using resistors to counteract the signal. Since I plan on getting some headers they do not come with the EGR connection and as you know by my previous question is was hard to remove my supercharger because of this, so I rather get rid of it and it was filthy inside the intake elbow which I presume its the EGR's fault.

PLUS THE EGR IS UGLY

 

Oohh how I agree ;-)

My last thought was to keep the EGR working, skip the pipe (close it of on the exhaust manifold, and connect the EGR valve unit to the intake (before the TB). That way the airflow sensed by the ECU stays correct, and on top of that the ECU will also register the pressure drop when the EGR opens, so a win win I would think ;-).

This could work, not sure as it was just a quick thought, the reason why it could fail is that there is a slight over pressure in the exhaust and a very slight under pressure in the air intake (between TB and MAF). But maybe there is just enough margin to pull it off.

 

brilliant.....

 

Forgot to add, the EGR is activated when you run in closed loop mode, don't think you can adjust that relativly to speed. But it is also solved if you drive you car in open loop all the time ;-)

 

The ECU check intake elbow pressure via the vaccum solenoid?

 

That little black sensor on the back of the intake elbow.

Why do you ask?

 

Because mustangs and lightnings use a 75 ohm resistor for the vaccum solenoid and they use a triangle configuration for the evp - 2 390ohm resitors and 1 3.9k ohm resitor to imitate the egr function....

 

Have my doubts in first instance as this would constanly alter the MAP values (am not strong in electrics, what dos this triangle mean?).

The ECU is comparing actual values in relation to engine RPM/Throttle posistion to what it thinks it should be, so altering the signal all the time might already cause it to flag an issue.

How in this setup does the MAP signal gets adjusted when the EGR is opened?

 

Dont know but it works, the only thing is that its different than ours, so no worky. There plug that goes into EGR is only 3 prong and ours is like 6.

Ford Lightning
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mE6dQnjhwM4

 

The poor guy, he was very right with one comment: "I am using the stock Eaton on here unfortunately right now” ;-)

I didn't look the full video, as it seems the kit is only fooling the ECU in that it works.

This is not where the problem lies for our cars. Besides checks of the ECU to see if the EGR valve is working, it also checks vacuum in the intake elbow. So when you drive in closed loop, and the ECU is opening the EGR valve, the vacuum in the intake elbow will drop (so less vacuum). If the ECU doesn't detect this drop in relation to the EGR valve position, it will throw an error. This is why blanking of the pipes and leaving the EGR on will not work.

But I still think my idea could work by connecting the EGR unit to the air intake tube (after MAF before TB). This way the EGR unit operates normally, and the vacuum check of the ECU will also work.

I have a 4.0 car, that doesn't have the vacuum check, so I was able to just blank it all off, so can't test the idea, otherwise I would.

Let me know if you want more info and/want to try this.

 

Just come to think of it, there cou be a good reason why it might not work out so well. Problem could be that when the EGR valve opens, you get more air instead of exhaust fumes with almost no oxygen, so you will get a fluctuation in power when the EGR operates. I am afraid that this would be noticeable, back to the drawing board...

 

I have always wanted to get rid of the EGR as well. I have wondered if we just took the fitting from the back of the throttle & ran the pipe to a small filter allowing it to draw fresh air. What are your thoughts???

 

If you do this, you will draw false air in (i.e. unmetered via the MAF) which will give you other errors. You can only get air if you tap it from the intake after the MAF sensor and before the TB. That is easy of course, but it would still give you power fluctuations, though I am not sure how noticeable that will be.

But you are in luck, you do not have the vacuum (MAP) meter, so you can just take out the EGR pipe, blank off the openings, and leave the EGR valve connected (just as I did it).

 

What year is your car ??? Mine is a 2000 & I believe it is fitted with a map sensor. Will that make a difference?? I would love to eliminate the EGR.

 

Have hidden my model year in my signature ;-).

What I know is that the 2000 XKR doesn't have a MAP sensor, and that a 4.2 (so 2003) does have one, not sure for the 2001 and 2002 models.

So you are good to go!

Edited for the 2001/2002 models to check:
The 2001/2002 XKRs have the MAP sensor not on the intake elbow (like the 4.2 cars), but somewhere behind the TB. This one uses the vacuum tube to measure the vacuum and it splits in 3:
1 pipe is going to the bypass valve
1 pipe is going to the side of the engine to the EVAP system
and if you are unlucky, 1 pipe goes to the MAP sensor.

There isn't one for the 2000 models eventhough some where prepared for the MAP sensor with an plugged tube like mine and also a connector loose in place. The reason why I am sure is that the 2000 models have the same ECU program as I have and I do not have the MAP, unless their is a market specific programm, but then you could upload the one used in the EU.
From the 2001 model I know there is a different ECU program, so it is likely that that does have the MAP sensor.

 

Andre I knew my car was fitted with a MAP sensor & infact is. I was looking thru a couple of different technical manuals as well as guides & came across something.
"The inlet manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor is a new EMS component which moniters the operation of the EGR valve and is fitted to NAS SC vehicles only to comply with OBDII requirments"
That explains why I have a MAP sensor. I am going to see if in the menu on IDS I can change the country of origin, if so I will see what can be done.

 

I Know it is described in separate documents, but I also know that my car doesn’t have it, it is not physically there as mentioned, and if the ECU was programmed to have one, it would through MAP errors, and would also through EGR errors (as I have blanked it of)

Can you confirm that you physically have the MAP sensor? Did you find the MAP sensor where I suggested it is? You should see it relatively easy.

If you can confirm to me that you have physically the MAP sensor, which is also connected to the vacuum tube as described, than you should also be able to read the sensor with the WDS/IDS, have you been able to get values?

Now if all of the above is confirmed and you get a vacuum sensor value, then not all is lost, just PM me your VIN, and I can see what can be done.

 

Yes I do infact hace a MAP sensor fited to my car. What info can you extract from the vin ???