Harmonic Balancer
#1
Harmonic Balancer
Ok, I've gotten some good help here from guys so far, but I need a little more.
I am removing the lower pulley for modding by eurotek.
I have the bolt out, but cannot get the pulley to move, even with a puller.
I've read here and other places to apply some heat.
I'm gonna buy a torch today and try that tonight.
However, I'm wondering where exactly I'm supposed to heat.
Just the outside of the pulleys?
Stick it in the center where the puller pushes?
I've also seen several things saying don't do what the instructions from eurotek say, which is secure the driveshaft by means of the service hole and putting a bolt in to stop it from moving.
That's what I've done so far, but feel that I might be putting too much torque on it to safely continue doing this.
What other options are there?
I've seen about stuffing rope in a sparkplug hole, but there's very specific requirements about stroke and the like that I simply don't understand.
I'm not a mechanic, just trying to save money by doing my own work for the mods I'm doing.
But, I don't want to end up costing myself more by messing something up.
Longwinded I know, but thanks for any responses.
I am removing the lower pulley for modding by eurotek.
I have the bolt out, but cannot get the pulley to move, even with a puller.
I've read here and other places to apply some heat.
I'm gonna buy a torch today and try that tonight.
However, I'm wondering where exactly I'm supposed to heat.
Just the outside of the pulleys?
Stick it in the center where the puller pushes?
I've also seen several things saying don't do what the instructions from eurotek say, which is secure the driveshaft by means of the service hole and putting a bolt in to stop it from moving.
That's what I've done so far, but feel that I might be putting too much torque on it to safely continue doing this.
What other options are there?
I've seen about stuffing rope in a sparkplug hole, but there's very specific requirements about stroke and the like that I simply don't understand.
I'm not a mechanic, just trying to save money by doing my own work for the mods I'm doing.
But, I don't want to end up costing myself more by messing something up.
Longwinded I know, but thanks for any responses.
#2
#3
Use heat if you are going to discard the damper. The proper way is outlined in the TSB here.
I use a 24" chain wrench with a section of old drive belt wrapped around the damper poly grooves to hold the damper while removing the 24mm head bolt. Use 8 x 1.25mm bolts with washers through a bolt type puller in the center section of the damper to pull 1 to 2 mm and smack the damper to loosen the split cone.
46 Piece Bolt Puller Set
bob gauff
I use a 24" chain wrench with a section of old drive belt wrapped around the damper poly grooves to hold the damper while removing the 24mm head bolt. Use 8 x 1.25mm bolts with washers through a bolt type puller in the center section of the damper to pull 1 to 2 mm and smack the damper to loosen the split cone.
46 Piece Bolt Puller Set
bob gauff
#4
Missed the last comment
So, somehow I managed to miss your comment motorcarman.
Since I hadn't seen it I just got the bolt out and stuck a harmonic balancer puller on it.
Here's how well that has worked:
Have I totally jacked things up by not using that remover-crankshaft damper tool mentioned in the bulletin?
Since I hadn't seen it I just got the bolt out and stuck a harmonic balancer puller on it.
Here's how well that has worked:
Have I totally jacked things up by not using that remover-crankshaft damper tool mentioned in the bulletin?
#5
#6
You might be missing the most important part of the instructions motorcarman is giving you.
Smacking the balancer with a hammer is the key. The vibration loosens the cone more easily than tons of pressure will.
Now, since your tool does not have the button to seat the puller screw against, your next best bet is to screw the crank bolt back in leaving a gap of 1/4 inch between the head and the balancer. Apply heavy pressure with the puller against the bolt head and smack the balancer from different sides until it pops a bit.
Smacking the balancer with a hammer is the key. The vibration loosens the cone more easily than tons of pressure will.
Now, since your tool does not have the button to seat the puller screw against, your next best bet is to screw the crank bolt back in leaving a gap of 1/4 inch between the head and the balancer. Apply heavy pressure with the puller against the bolt head and smack the balancer from different sides until it pops a bit.
Last edited by plums; 11-09-2011 at 11:32 PM.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
One more tip ... grease the contact point between the bolt head and the puller screw since the bolt head will tend to turn in as you turn the puller screw ... you need that gap for the balancer to have room to pop. You can also use a wrench to keep the bolt from turning as you tighten the puller screw.
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)