Snow Stage II water/alky injection install part deux
#1
Snow Stage II water/alky injection install part deux
OK,
Got the Snow stage II wired how I like it.
See photos
I'm going to mount the control unit in the cold air box after my new intake arrives, for now it lives in the orange rag. Later I'll move the ground wire,and relay out of sight too.
I used a relay. I took the main (big) power from the large wire that feeds the fuse boxes (with inline 30A fuse) and took the control wire by splicing into the rear cigar lighter under the center console (with 5 amp inline fuse). The rear cigar lighter wires are very easily accessed. This did not require running a wire from the trunk. The wires ran through an existing opening in the firewall (where the hood release cables go through) as seen in the photos. This made for an easy installation. The wires are easily accessible under the dash also.
I mounted the two tiny green (for when the system is spraying) and red (low fluid warning) lights in the crack of the driver's side pillar. You wouldn't notice them until they come on. I like this as it maintains the "stock" look but gives me the info I need in real time.
There is a noticeable increase in higher rpm power, my butt dyno is not well calibrated, so I'll wait to see what this does on the dyno and track once I install the 4lb lower pulley which is next on the list.
Feel free to thank me, send me chocolates, or lots and lots of money for being the Guinea pig for this installation
Again, I would be happy to help anyone in the SF Bay Area with their installation, now having worked out a good installation method.
Got the Snow stage II wired how I like it.
See photos
I'm going to mount the control unit in the cold air box after my new intake arrives, for now it lives in the orange rag. Later I'll move the ground wire,and relay out of sight too.
I used a relay. I took the main (big) power from the large wire that feeds the fuse boxes (with inline 30A fuse) and took the control wire by splicing into the rear cigar lighter under the center console (with 5 amp inline fuse). The rear cigar lighter wires are very easily accessed. This did not require running a wire from the trunk. The wires ran through an existing opening in the firewall (where the hood release cables go through) as seen in the photos. This made for an easy installation. The wires are easily accessible under the dash also.
I mounted the two tiny green (for when the system is spraying) and red (low fluid warning) lights in the crack of the driver's side pillar. You wouldn't notice them until they come on. I like this as it maintains the "stock" look but gives me the info I need in real time.
There is a noticeable increase in higher rpm power, my butt dyno is not well calibrated, so I'll wait to see what this does on the dyno and track once I install the 4lb lower pulley which is next on the list.
Feel free to thank me, send me chocolates, or lots and lots of money for being the Guinea pig for this installation
Again, I would be happy to help anyone in the SF Bay Area with their installation, now having worked out a good installation method.
Last edited by WaterDragon; 07-06-2012 at 01:49 PM. Reason: added photo
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XJR-0220 (07-05-2012)
#3
2 x 225 nozzles
I'll make you a smoking deal: I'll pay your gas to and from and give you a place to sleep, and while you do my tensioners, I'll work on your alky install
Of course there will be a rib eye in it for you too. I'm not a bad chef, I could sous vide it before finishing it on the grill. Betcha never had that before.
Last edited by WaterDragon; 07-05-2012 at 09:07 PM.
#5
#7
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#8
Running around today in approx 100 degree temps and noticing my car is pulling better than it ever had on a cold day.
I'm running 2 x 175ml/mn nozzles for a total injection of 350ml/minute. The 2 x 225 nozzles were too much for my stock car to handle, I think it was quenching. I will put those back on when I am making way more power. Mooo Hoooo Ha Ahhhhhhh.....
The car revs noticeably faster from 5000-6000 rpm with the meth injection at 100 degrees than it did without it at 60 degrees. Pretty cool, pun intended.
I'm seeing 10 lbs of boost with the injection on, and 9 lbs with it turned off.
Can't wait to raise the boost and see what it can do then.
I'm going to be adding a dual intake temp gauges, one sensor right after the blower and one after the intercoolers and meth injection have done their magic so I will be able to measure their efficiency exactly.
Fun Fun Fun
I'm running 2 x 175ml/mn nozzles for a total injection of 350ml/minute. The 2 x 225 nozzles were too much for my stock car to handle, I think it was quenching. I will put those back on when I am making way more power. Mooo Hoooo Ha Ahhhhhhh.....
The car revs noticeably faster from 5000-6000 rpm with the meth injection at 100 degrees than it did without it at 60 degrees. Pretty cool, pun intended.
I'm seeing 10 lbs of boost with the injection on, and 9 lbs with it turned off.
Can't wait to raise the boost and see what it can do then.
I'm going to be adding a dual intake temp gauges, one sensor right after the blower and one after the intercoolers and meth injection have done their magic so I will be able to measure their efficiency exactly.
Fun Fun Fun
#9
Update,
I found that injecting 375 ml/minute BEFORE the TB is way better than after. Injecting before the blower makes it run much cooler, and the denser air is easier for the rotors to move, and I got an additional +1 PSI vs after the blower !
Do NOT listen to anyone who says it strips the rotors, they do not know what they are talking about and cannot provide a single incident this has ever happened.
__________________
I found that injecting 375 ml/minute BEFORE the TB is way better than after. Injecting before the blower makes it run much cooler, and the denser air is easier for the rotors to move, and I got an additional +1 PSI vs after the blower !
Do NOT listen to anyone who says it strips the rotors, they do not know what they are talking about and cannot provide a single incident this has ever happened.
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