Supercharger Bypass Valve?
#1
Supercharger Bypass Valve?
Can anyone explain to me what the purpose of the Bypass Valve is on the Supercharged V8's?
Here are the details from the parts catalog;
Two reasons why i'm asking;
1. It's mentioned in the Kenne Belle paper about low boost http://kennebell.net/KBWebsite/Commo...esAndCures.pdf
2. The junior at my local garage mentioned that adjusting this bypass is a means of getting more boost, not unlike the wastegate in a turbocharger.
I'd never heard or seen of anyone any adjustments in our cars, anybody know anything more about it?
Here are the details from the parts catalog;
Two reasons why i'm asking;
1. It's mentioned in the Kenne Belle paper about low boost http://kennebell.net/KBWebsite/Commo...esAndCures.pdf
2. The junior at my local garage mentioned that adjusting this bypass is a means of getting more boost, not unlike the wastegate in a turbocharger.
I'd never heard or seen of anyone any adjustments in our cars, anybody know anything more about it?
The following users liked this post:
User 070620 (11-19-2019)
#2
From Eaton's Supercharger FAQ:
Q: What is this black plastic object on the side of my supercharger? What is a bypass valve?
A: That object is the bypass valve vacuum actuator. This unit has a vacuum port that connects to the supercharger inlet between the rotors and throttle body. This actuator opens and closes a bypass valve for the supercharger. This valve is open when throttle loads are low and closed when throttle loads are high. With the bypass valve open there is no pressure being created across the supercharger. This allows the supercharger to have an almost negligible parasitic loss in this condition. With the bypass valve closed, all airflow is routed through the supercharger and boost is created in the intake manifold. In some newer applications this actuator is also controlled by a solenoid.
Q: What is this black plastic object on the side of my supercharger? What is a bypass valve?
A: That object is the bypass valve vacuum actuator. This unit has a vacuum port that connects to the supercharger inlet between the rotors and throttle body. This actuator opens and closes a bypass valve for the supercharger. This valve is open when throttle loads are low and closed when throttle loads are high. With the bypass valve open there is no pressure being created across the supercharger. This allows the supercharger to have an almost negligible parasitic loss in this condition. With the bypass valve closed, all airflow is routed through the supercharger and boost is created in the intake manifold. In some newer applications this actuator is also controlled by a solenoid.
The following 2 users liked this post by JKo:
Cambo (07-30-2012),
User 070620 (01-28-2020)
#3
The following users liked this post:
User 070620 (01-28-2020)
#7
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#9
Cambo- there is NO BENEFIT to not having the bypass valve on a positive displacement device like a Roots style blower (including the TVS).
This is because it does no internal compression work and merely supplies a volume. When it is bypassed- the parasitics are quite low- almost like a PAS pump or alternator. This doesn't apply to something like a lysholm compressor which does internal comp work and must be de-clutched to get rid of parasitics.
Unfortunately a lot of the internet/forum know-it-all try to boost 'part load' performance- and don't realise how stupid that is. If you want more performance - you put your foot down- to WOT if necessary, otherwise you may as well focus on lowering pumping losses.
This is because it does no internal compression work and merely supplies a volume. When it is bypassed- the parasitics are quite low- almost like a PAS pump or alternator. This doesn't apply to something like a lysholm compressor which does internal comp work and must be de-clutched to get rid of parasitics.
Unfortunately a lot of the internet/forum know-it-all try to boost 'part load' performance- and don't realise how stupid that is. If you want more performance - you put your foot down- to WOT if necessary, otherwise you may as well focus on lowering pumping losses.
The following 3 users liked this post by Count Iblis:
#10
Cambo- there is NO BENEFIT to not having the bypass valve on a positive displacement device like a Roots style blower (including the TVS).
This is because it does no internal compression work and merely supplies a volume. When it is bypassed- the parasitics are quite low- almost like a PAS pump or alternator. This doesn't apply to something like a lysholm compressor which does internal comp work and must be de-clutched to get rid of parasitics.
Unfortunately a lot of the internet/forum know-it-all try to boost 'part load' performance- and don't realise how stupid that is. If you want more performance - you put your foot down- to WOT if necessary, otherwise you may as well focus on lowering pumping losses.
This is because it does no internal compression work and merely supplies a volume. When it is bypassed- the parasitics are quite low- almost like a PAS pump or alternator. This doesn't apply to something like a lysholm compressor which does internal comp work and must be de-clutched to get rid of parasitics.
Unfortunately a lot of the internet/forum know-it-all try to boost 'part load' performance- and don't realise how stupid that is. If you want more performance - you put your foot down- to WOT if necessary, otherwise you may as well focus on lowering pumping losses.
#11
Whilst doing a smoke test on my 07 to find leaks I noticed a small one coming from the join of the actuator body. It opens on start up but obviously I don’t know it the leak is stopping it from closing under load, there’s plenty of power so I’m assuming it’s ok.
Whist I’m not keen on spending £160 on a new one I would like to fix it. I was thinking about thoroughly cleaning and preparing the surface before using Tiger Seal or Sikaflex PU adhesive to seal it. A few questions:
1. Does the actuator come apart
2. Would a small leak there cause any fault codes
3. Is the actuator removable without pulling the charge coolers, i.e. pulling the inlet tubes and T-piece on the throttle body
Edit: I may be answering my own question but further searching shows this o ring is available, at 4cm x 4cm x 0.2cm it’s about the right size.
Whist I’m not keen on spending £160 on a new one I would like to fix it. I was thinking about thoroughly cleaning and preparing the surface before using Tiger Seal or Sikaflex PU adhesive to seal it. A few questions:
1. Does the actuator come apart
2. Would a small leak there cause any fault codes
3. Is the actuator removable without pulling the charge coolers, i.e. pulling the inlet tubes and T-piece on the throttle body
Edit: I may be answering my own question but further searching shows this o ring is available, at 4cm x 4cm x 0.2cm it’s about the right size.
Last edited by Pipes; 08-06-2023 at 11:41 AM.
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