tensioner bolt help
#1
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I orderd ford part number W705391S300BOLT - M6 X 1.06 X 40 HEX
I got that number off of a post here for the bolts to hold my new upper tensinors but it seems these bolts are to long they feel like they have bottemd out in the hole. They look just like the other bolts just a bit longer plz help
I got that number off of a post here for the bolts to hold my new upper tensinors but it seems these bolts are to long they feel like they have bottemd out in the hole. They look just like the other bolts just a bit longer plz help
#2
#5
#6
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There are a lot of people wandering around who would happily torque down a bottoming bolt and call it good without questioning why or noticing that the bolt has bottomed.
Well, the resulting gap is not going to allow the tensioner to build up pressure to design levels. And will certainly allow the tensioner to leakdown when shutdown. It will also starve the VVT that is in the neighbourhood if it is a NA application.
The reason that the ticking disappears with increased RPM is of course that the oil volume increases with RPM. At some point the volume of oil is able to mask the leak. The same is true with regard to the use of thicker oil - it too will help to mask the leak.
It is hard to detect after the fact for the inexperienced because the piston spring applies some pressure and holds the tensioner steady and their fingers don't know the tactile difference.
Last edited by plums; 05-11-2011 at 03:45 AM.
#7
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#9
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They are only about an 1/8" shorter than the original but that makes a big difference.
If you have the longer bolts go to the local ACE and buy 2 nuts that fit the bolts. Put the bolts on and grind/Dremel/cut the 1/8" excess off and then take the nuts off to clean up the threads.
If you have the longer bolts go to the local ACE and buy 2 nuts that fit the bolts. Put the bolts on and grind/Dremel/cut the 1/8" excess off and then take the nuts off to clean up the threads.
Last edited by test point; 02-16-2015 at 07:33 PM.
#10
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In addition, I think I remember reading that using the long bolts with the later tensioners blocked some sort of oil passageway ...???
(Wouldn't swear to it, though.)
#12
#13
#14
#15
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For reference, the front timing cover bolts are the correct length for the metal bodied secondary tensioners. You could also add a short spacer or washers in a 'pinch'.
Just make sure the tensioners are TIGHT against the head.
I never have to buy the shorter bolts anymore because I just take them from the front timing cover of the several 'scrap' engines I have around.
bob gauff
Just make sure the tensioners are TIGHT against the head.
I never have to buy the shorter bolts anymore because I just take them from the front timing cover of the several 'scrap' engines I have around.
bob gauff
#16
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does not seal at the mating surfaces and then the oil is free to take the path
of least resistance rather than acting on the plunger.
In addition, the tensioner will have a case of the wobblies. (see JTIS for definition
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For future readers, AFAIK, the shorter bolts are 35 mm measured from under the bolt head.
Be sure to clean oil out of bolt holes to avoid hydrolocking even with the shorter bolts.
Notes copied from my cheat sheet:
Code:
secondary tensioner : 10-14 NM 90lb/in camshaft bearing caps : 9-11 NM 90lb/in sparkplugs : 25-29 NM WITH ANTISEIZE, new:1/2 turn max after finger tight, old 1/12 turn (NGK: 24.39-29.27NM / 18.0-21.6 lb/ft) (DENSO: 20-30NM / 15-22 lb/ft) target value = 20 lb/ft 220lb/in 180lb/in = 20NM valve cover : 9-11 NM 90lb/in Coil on Plug Bolts : 4-6 NM 35lb/in Coil Cover Bolts : 4-6 NM 35lb/in Note: The installation torque values shown above apply to new spark plugs with anti-seize according to JTIS. NM to foot pound-force 0.737562147282 NM to inch pound-force 8.85074576738
Last edited by plums; 02-16-2015 at 10:58 PM.
#17
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