Hi all,
I recently acquired a 1966 4.2 Mk10, sort of an impulse buy although I've wanted a Mk10 for a long time. I have other Jags including a driver 68 e-type, a 62 Mk2 that I restored, a 1952 xk120 fhc on which I'm fairly far along on resto, and MK9, 62 e-type fhc projects. Oh and a 2019 I-Pace which is my daily driver. In short, I like the Jags.

I've also been posting on Jag-Lovers and one of the members there suggested this was a good place to link up with other Mk10 owners.

The Mk10 has some good points and bad. The good being that it wasn't real expensive, especially has a very straight body with only limited rust issues and no evidence of prior collisions, good factory fit of panels, and pretty decent wood. The bad, an old respray that is falling off, vinyl seats, and a host of mechanical and electrical issues. It does run and sort of drives. It was billed to me as a survivor and a driver, but falls short on both counts. After quite a lot of work including fixing vacuum leaks, removing both tanks and cleaning a huge amount of rust from the fuel system, changing the incredibly dirty oil, replacing the defective power steering pump, transX for the leaking BW8, carburetor tuning, timing (distributor wasn't bolted down and vacuum was unattached), replace the bumping center driveline bushing, dealing with burst radiator hoses, I have a car that can be carefully driven a little way. It temporarily has a marine gas tank, has intermittent power braking, idles well with decent oil pressure and much less smoking, cools adequately, but has a bad miss on acceleration that I haven't yet sorted.

Besides cosmetics, what I know it needs after the fuel tank R&R is better brakes. I'm posting a photo of the master cylinder that I believe is non-oem attached to a Jag booster. Anyone seen this? I'm inclined to try to find a rebuildable core if such a thing exists. The other brake issue besides the usual caliper restoration is that the emergency brake hardware is simply missing beyond the exit of the cable from the passenger compartment. There are no e-brake parts attached to the rear calipers or anything in-between. I think I might have some of those parts in my stash, but I'll be looking.

Mostly, I just want to introduce myself, and let folks know what I am doing with this old beastie, in case anyone has a helpful suggestion here or there.
Thanks,
Ron, Olympia, WA

 

Ron,

I've worked on a customer's 1967 420G for almost 20 years. We've done just about everything on it. It still retains the orig booster and the master cylinder has been replaced several times with a Series 1 or 2 XJ6 type having to modify the mounting holes (enlarge them). The rear calipers were replaced with modified Series 3 calipers after one of the orig calipers broke from a securing bolt coming loose. The calipers were machined to mount like the orig MK10 ones and the suspension cradle had slight notches cut into it for easy replacement of brake pads.

paul
Coventry Cars of San Diego

 

Thanks for your note. Apparently, the 4.2 Mk10 and the 420G master/servo are not the same. I've been advised to find a series 1-2 XJ6 master and use a Girling Supervac, but there seems to be some intrigue about what actually can work. I will admit that I am confused... My booster is working, but is intermittent for some reason. The XJ master seems not to be available, so I guess I'll be looking for a core suitable for rebuilding.
Ron

 

Hi Ron,
Welcome! That definitely is not the OEM master cylinder. Jack White (Jagnut, Luray VA) may have a rebuildable master cylinder body.(540) 743-4037. If you can't find a rebuild kit, Apple Hydraulics can rebuild it, where they get theirs, I don't know. The vacuum system on the brakes has a reserve tank that is located in the fender well behind the battery. That connection or a leak from the tank may be part of the vacuum problem. The tank is supposed to supply vacuum when engine vacuum is too low. Be very careful with the plastic tee check valve that ties the vacuum tank to the rest of the system. It is 50+ year old plastic and is very brittle. Extreme care should be taken on replacing the hoses not to break it. I am talking to a friend of mine that does 3D printing to make one for me. It would have to be done in 3 pieces and it doesn't look like a big deal.

Speaking of brittle plastic, replacements for the 2 pieces of housing around the steering column cannot be found intact so be careful if you need to remove it. Lucas made it and it is standard Lucas quality for the time period.

I drove mine daily back in the 80's. I am about a year away from getting mine back on the road. I would dearly love an E-type but I passed up many plus 150s many years ago. My friends used to call it the Hudson but it is such a cool car with so much class. Good luck with yours and I hope this helps.

Mike Payne
Chattanooga, TN

 

Thanks for your note, Mike. It's always good to hear from another Mk10 owner - there are so few on the road.

And since my note last September, mine is now back on the road after several thousand dollars in parts and a lot of time. I completely rebuilt the brakes including replacement of the missing e-brake calipers. I solved the master/booster problem, and you should take note of this if you have the later 4.2 brakes. You need an XJ series 1 booster, which Booster Dewey in Portland, OR can rebuild. This will bolt up to the Mk10 pedal box, but you may have to add an access port to get the clevis pin in like the XJ has. Best just to pull the pedal box (easy) and do it on the bench. The series 1 or 2 XJ master works fine (Yes Lazar at Apple) - I had to add a 1/10" shim between the master and booster. Brakes are amazingly good.
Additionally I've recored the radiator, built a custom replacement header tank, rebuilt the IRS with new shock, cleaned and coated the fuel tanks with rebuilt senders and pumps, plus a hundred other things. Working on the electric windows and heater box now.
David Manners in England is the best parts source for this car. They have things nobody else does, and it's all been correct so far. I have the plastic steering column bearing you mention in my latest order - the new part is now in two pieces.
If you are not already there, you should join Jag Lovers. There are some helpful owners there on the saloons forum, especially Tony in Australia who is a guru.

 

Just stumbled acorss this thread...sad there's not more traffic here, just gotta say I love a Mk X.

 

Unfortunately, the low volume of traffic is somewhat representative of the low number of surviving examples of the car. Unfortunately, the economics are just not there for many would-be restorers to take on a MK-X. Money spent on a MK-2, or an E-type would yield a far better return than on a MK-X. Sad, but true.

 

Welcome. I would like to have a Mk10. I think theyre great looking. Looking at your pics, I see to many similarities to the S-type in particular. Good luck with it.

 

Please replace those spliced brake lines ASAP in their current state they are an hazard to your safety.

 

Thanks for the comment. You and I are connected by PM I think, but I'll reply here so that others might benefit. I did replace one of those splices when I upgraded to S1 XJ brake controls, but the other line was not replaceable with the engine in place. Now, with the engine out I can do so. But please educate me, as I know you are an experienced restorer. Is it the presence of any splice that bothers you or just this type of union? If I had my choice, I would use flared tubing style unions rather than these, but I couldn't get my flaring tool on that line. My local auto parts store does still sell the compression ring, non-flare style of union

 

Ron,
I am against any type of a splice in a brake line. Especially a compression fitting. If you measure the full length of the line and let me know the configuration of the ends I will make you one from stainless.

 

Thanks for the offer, but I've got the tools and can do that.

 

I also have a 65 4.2 MKX.
Nice to read about the XJ brake retrofit.
Anybody on here know about the overdrive and manual gearbox replacement by a modern and reliable Getrag?
Many thanks

 

I doubt the Getrag would be an improvement. Yes it is lighter but the cost of that conversion would be fairly expensive. Save the money for cooling system upgrades!
Brake upgrades are quite another matter as anything that helps slow the elephant car down better is a greatly needed plus.
An XJ brake upgrade would obviously bring on a wheel upgrade as well.

 

Hi Ron,
I, too, rather impulse purchased a Mk X, except it was 1988. Did much of the work as you described within the first couple of years I had it to restore braking and cooling abilities especially. Took out most of the woodwork in the front half of the car and refinished. Unfortunately, I had started a business within 4 months of acquiring the big cat and then had our first child in early '89. That was pretty much the end of restoration and I've let her sit in the garage ever since. However, retired last year and now thinking of getting back into restoration or perhaps just selling and moving on. Do you have contact info for David Manners? One of the unfortunate surprises to me is the lack of availability of parts. Back in the day, I maintained a subscription to Hemmings and there were always multiple Mk Xs being parted out and many listings for parts and whole cars. Sure don't see that now.

Good luck and have fun with your project,
Curtis Pennington
Dallas, TX

 

Curt ~ The leather in your Mk X is dreamy! It's the perfect amount of the worn in look to my eyes.
The hides in my 420 compact have been replaced a few years ago. Can't wait to wear it in more.
I'm new to '60s Jaguars. Could you tell me if the leather is at all similar to what they used back then & if they age in a similar way?
Dave -

 

Sorry, I couldn't say. I bought mine in '88 and it looks now about how it looked in. That said, it hasn't been driven more than 200 miles since I got it and that was all probably the first year I had it. Been sitting in a garage ever since. I suspect someone had redone the dye at some point but not sure. I am concerned about all the splits though. I'd like to find out if there's a way to reinforce the bolster areas from the back without having to replace completely. I would like to preserve the vintage look and don't care if it isn't like new. Ironically, I have a leather restoring specialist coming by tomorrow. I sent him pics of what I have now and I'm interested to get his opinion about preservation/restoration.

Good luck,
Curtis