1958 3.4 Ignition stuck on
#21
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I got in behind the dash to check out the ignition switch and took these pictures, the ignition switch is a little hard to see but I can tell that one of the set screws looks like it might be in wrong, other than that I tried to trace wires through the dash to see what else to look at. It definitely looks like someone has been in here before me because there are some "newer" wires. I tried to see if there was still something on without either of the fuses in the fuse box and when I touched the terminals to the battery it still sparked because the ignition was still stuck on.
#23
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I was able to get to it by just removing the ashtray and a metal plate under the dash as opposed to taking off the entire center facia, I found this out by looking in my manual. By access to the wires do you mean to take of the two screws visible on the back that are holding the wires in place, I'm assuming it works like the wires in the fuse box being held in place by screws.
#24
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#25
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Glyn M Ruck (12-19-2021)
#28
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Warning, Long Thread:
Starting with what we have already been talking about. The ignition switch is working as it should after testing it without the wires, but we did notice a small amount of white smoke and a burning smell coming from over by the alternator/generator. Another update on this part of the story is in the first picture near the carbs you can see a black solenoid poking out with a flat head screw on top, after feeling around and testing we found that this is what is continually activating when the batteries are connected, so this might be part of the issue when it comes to the ignition but now I am more confident in it being the alternator/generator.
The new part and the more worrying/confusing twist to this mystery is in the last picture (might be hard to see) there is what seems to be a primer near the front carb, with the attached image of my manual the corresponding labels are 30-36 on the diagram (the solenoid is on the diagram too). Whats happening here now is when we tried to start the car to see if the alternator/generator would drain the battery, we notice a steady amount of gasoline coming out of this piece and immediately shut down the car and disconnected the battery. If anyone has an idea as to what is happening here that would be appreciated but tomorrow during the business day I am going to reach out to a local Jaguar specialist and see what they have to say.
#29
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The item in your picture is the starter carb, if its flooding petrol out it probably means that the needle valve in the front carb float chamber is stuck.
Try tapping the top of the float chamber to see if it stops and if not take the top off (item 18) and clean out the needle valve (item 20).
Regarding the ignition staying on, my money would be on a fault with the dynamo regulation, try disconnecting this to see if the problem stops.
Try tapping the top of the float chamber to see if it stops and if not take the top off (item 18) and clean out the needle valve (item 20).
Regarding the ignition staying on, my money would be on a fault with the dynamo regulation, try disconnecting this to see if the problem stops.
#30
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If it is not a stuck needle valve check the overflow/vent pipe to make sure it is not blocked. Insects love to build in these pipes.
If this pipe gets blocked the float and needle valve can no longer operate due to internal pressure build up and flooding occurs.
Bill Mac
MK1
MK2
S3XJ6
X300
15 previous Jags MK5 to X308
If this pipe gets blocked the float and needle valve can no longer operate due to internal pressure build up and flooding occurs.
Bill Mac
MK1
MK2
S3XJ6
X300
15 previous Jags MK5 to X308
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Glyn M Ruck (12-21-2021)
#31
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I was finally able to get back to working on my car yesterday, the gasoline geyser problem I was able to fix thanks to the suggestion that I got and I was also able to get my car to fire up and drive around the parking lot. I have some videos attached to this of me driving at both idle and actually moving of the amp gauge because before this problem started the needle was pretty steady in the middle of the gauge, but now it seems to be all over the place.
Edit: I’m just wondering if this might solidify a possible culprit for my ignition problem
Edit: I’m just wondering if this might solidify a possible culprit for my ignition problem
Last edited by HorvJag; 12-27-2021 at 10:20 AM.
#32
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HorvJag
I am reasonably sure you have an RB310 "control box" (that is the Jaguar reference in the service manual) which most people refer to as the regulator. It was fitted to later model 2.4 (late 1957) and all 3.4 cars
In image 1 with the engine at just above idle the high discharge is power coming out of the battery via a stuck cutout in the regulator and discharging into the generator armature.
In image 2 the generator is just coming "on line" and the voltage being produced is just opposing battery voltage
In Image 3 the generator is fully on line probably producing approx.13.5 to 14 volts which is overcoming the 12 volt battery and showing a high rate of charge (which will vary slightly with lower RPM)
I suggest you
(1) disconnect the battery.
(2) take the top off the regulator
(3) identify the B terminal of the regulator and its associated coil and points
(4) check the points. They may be welded shut
(5) if possible separate the points and clean them (400 grit paper)
(6) put a piece of carboard or similar insulation between the points.
(7) reconnect the battery and check that there is no discharge or charge and I suspect the ignition key/ light problem will disappear.
(8) disconnect the battery again, remove the insulation you put between the points. Put the regulator cover back on.
(9)reconnect the battery and start the car. You should have no serious discharge at idle and normal charge "cut in" at about 1000 to1200 RPM and fully on line by 2000 RPM
If this doesn't cure the problem then you will have to get another RB310 regulator.
Is it possible the previous owner was "fiddling" with the regulator?
Bill Mac
MK1
MK2
S#XJ6
X300
15 previous Jags MK5 to X308
I am reasonably sure you have an RB310 "control box" (that is the Jaguar reference in the service manual) which most people refer to as the regulator. It was fitted to later model 2.4 (late 1957) and all 3.4 cars
In image 1 with the engine at just above idle the high discharge is power coming out of the battery via a stuck cutout in the regulator and discharging into the generator armature.
In image 2 the generator is just coming "on line" and the voltage being produced is just opposing battery voltage
In Image 3 the generator is fully on line probably producing approx.13.5 to 14 volts which is overcoming the 12 volt battery and showing a high rate of charge (which will vary slightly with lower RPM)
I suggest you
(1) disconnect the battery.
(2) take the top off the regulator
(3) identify the B terminal of the regulator and its associated coil and points
(4) check the points. They may be welded shut
(5) if possible separate the points and clean them (400 grit paper)
(6) put a piece of carboard or similar insulation between the points.
(7) reconnect the battery and check that there is no discharge or charge and I suspect the ignition key/ light problem will disappear.
(8) disconnect the battery again, remove the insulation you put between the points. Put the regulator cover back on.
(9)reconnect the battery and start the car. You should have no serious discharge at idle and normal charge "cut in" at about 1000 to1200 RPM and fully on line by 2000 RPM
If this doesn't cure the problem then you will have to get another RB310 regulator.
Is it possible the previous owner was "fiddling" with the regulator?
Bill Mac
MK1
MK2
S#XJ6
X300
15 previous Jags MK5 to X308
The following 2 users liked this post by Bill Mac:
Glyn M Ruck (12-28-2021),
littlelic69 (12-28-2021)
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