I have been a bit slow in updating this thread recently, need to take some more pictures of it.

Not much of story to me buying it, just saw it for sale locally and bought it from someone who had bought it with the intention of banger racing it but thought it was too good. They didn't know what it was and neither did I, I bought it with the intention of turning it into an XJR powered monster like Doug Doreens one.

Once I found out what it was thought I had to keep it original, even down to the dull grey colour!

 

Was nearly Banger raced Good job the guy saw sense and not what a lot of them have done and destroy a half decent one out of spite, Nothing wrong with Dove grey on a MK2, I prefer them in the lighter body colours, Interested to know what caused the rot behind the rear seat back, Was it a rear screen leak? Be great to see more pics

 

Hi,

I have attached some pictures of it as found, it was in a bad way and would probably have been borderline if it hadn't been the first one.

I had to cut out the panel behind the back seat (into the boot) and replace this as its was totally rotten. I managed to get one from another shell which I bought from a house clearance.

I don't know why it was soo rotten as the base of the back seat and main floor weren't anything like as bad, I do think there was a mouse nest behind here though which probably didn't help, the little monsters had also checked through the headlining and there was a rat skeleton on top of the engine when I bought it.

When I first found out what it was I made enquires with the major jag clubs (including at various shows) and various historians and no one was interested in it. I thought that it was a piece of history and should be in a museum after being restored by experts but after the lack of interest I thought I might as well keep it and do it myself.

 

One other thing, the seats are an odd colour, they are a greeny bluey grey. None of the jaguar trim companies could match the colour and they hadn't seen it before.

The colour is correct not faded as even the leather and vinyl that hasn't been exposed to the sun is all the same colour. It may have been something they were trialing.

According to the Heritage Certificate the car was converted from LHD to RHD at the factory and was then sold in February 1960 where it was registered as 203HP. All of this is noted on the original factory production legers which I went to Gaydon a few years ago to view.

No one is quite sure what the car was used for but it was allocated to Mr Baily (Claude)who I understand was one of the engine designers. I have been told that the car was probably used for some experimental work as the factory didn't register development cars, they just ran them on trade plates. If it had been Mr Baily's personal car it would have been registered when built.

It also the only car with no build date, all they know is that number 2 wasn't built and number 3 was built in August so the JDHT have put this car down as August 1959. Production of RHD 3.8 cars didn't start until a few months later.

 

Some more pictures of the bodywork, it needed a lot of work and some of the panels I had to fabricate myself as replacement were either not available of prohibitively expensive and poor quality (like the inner rear arches).

 

Cheers for the pics and info, Car looked nicely original and unmolested on purchase, A good start on a MK2! Some excellent fabrication skills you have. The Claude Bailey history with the car gives it some real pedigree and lucky to survive as Jaguar were known to scrap their development hacks! Awesome

 

I can't believe the lack of interest in it from Jaguar? Especially being the 1st 3.8. The MK2 was a milestone for jaguar in terms of styling and is one of the most iconic cars jaguar produced especially with it's solid racing history. Many have stated the best looking saloon car of all time, And i agree hence why i've owned 5! MK2's just look 'right' from every angle.

 

Thanks Homer for the back story, and very nice fabrication work too, seems crazy that there was no interest, I personally think that they should have chewed your arm off, any way it's your gain and you are doing a great job too. Well done for saving her, well worth the effort.

 

Big day today as I insured it and took it out on the road this afternoon, went ok but engine needs setting up as its not running well when warm and tracking feels out.

Going to be fiddling with it a bit tommorrow if I can get a garage pass from SWMBO.

 

I would like to see it sometime, Perhaps when i eventually sort my MK2 out i could drive up for a meet up?

 

We should do a UK jag forums meet up when we have them all going ?

 

I'd be up for something like that

 

I took it for its MOT today it passed first time, even the headlight aim was ok and didn't need tweaking.

It had one advise for the handbrake which only just passed the required efficency.

One problem I had is that it doesnt restart well when hot, not sure what would cause that, any ideas? When it does eventually it start it runs fine and drives without fault.

We even tried putting some easy start into it with the air cleaner off and it did't even try to fire.

The timing is set to 10 degrees at 650RPM with vacuum disconnected (as the question I asked earlier this week on here) and the mixture is set at 6% CO.

IT always starts when its cold?

 

6% sounds too rich to me, Hence poor hot starting, When i set mine up i remove the dash pots, Wind off the mixture screw untill the main jet is flush then wind down about 2 1/2 turns. Then i give it a good run and pull the plugs and fine tune as per the plug colours, Old fashioned i know but it works for me!

 

BTW congrats on the MOT pass!

 

Thats interesting because I read a few articles where people were suggesting 5.5 - 6.5% as a good starting level. Anyone else have any experience with this?

 

At idle, you want the lowest CO, before the HC starts to rise. Usually 2.5 -3. If you don't have a HC meter, a vacuum gage & Tach is next best. You want highest vacuum at idle, then lean out slightly & vacuum will drop. Slightly lean can be proven with a burnsamatic. Take the jet out of the torch, put a hose on the end. ( don't light). Using the torch valve, slowly feed the propane into the throat. The idle speed will rise if lean.
5-6 CO would be masking problems. On the other hand maybe they have to be so rich to prevent stumble off idle.

 

Thanks Clyde, I remember setting my S-Type 3.8 that I had 10 years ago to around 3%, and it ran really badly, the guy who did the MOT who was an old school mechanic (and whose emissions machine I was using) said that it needed to be at least 5% to run properly.

 

I would go with too rich as well, what does the idle do if you use the lift pins on the carb dash pots to lift the dash pots bu about 1/32" ? The revs should rise slightly and then drop back to normal, if the revs rise and stay up then the mixture is too rich.

Vac gauge and tach are a really good way to tune the carbs as Clyde has said, I would definitely look at mixture for the hot start problem from what you have described.

 

If I lift the pins the revs drop which indicates lean but at 6% CO I don't think it is!

It also runs really well now apart from the hot starting issue.