I am trying to install a new exhaust on a 1960 3.4L. Hopefully someone has some experience with this. Turns out that the new exhaust is slightly different than the old one. The 4 studs that extend from under both exhaust manifolds are not long enough for the new exhaust flange. I tried removing the exhaust manifolds to remove the studs and try to put longer ones, however the old studs dont want to come out very easily. Does anyone have any experience with this? Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Sounds like you will need to get in there with a source of heat, a fine tip on a oxy acetaline set will probable suffice, get the stud up to red heat then apply force with a set of mole grips/locking pliers or double nut before applying the heat.

 

is that the only difference?

then take the manifolds to a machine shop to get the studs removed and replaced.

if you insist on removing them yourself, then spray them daily with rust-removing liquid for two or three days.

then use at least 3 nuts, one tightened over the other on each stud, then try turning the bottom-most nut counterclockwise to see if the stud will loosen.

the next option is to heat them until they turn red hot, then try loosening the studs.

 

When using heat you want to expand the manifold, not the stud.
If you just expand the stud, you may crack the casting.
By gradually heating up that general area of the manifold, you take the stress off the cast iron, the casting becomes bigger then the stud and the rust bond breaks.
When the manifold is good and hot, that's the time to loosen the stud.
Patience and a lot of heat is needed here.

A good set of welding gloves comes in handy here too.

I have to do the exact same thing to my manifolds, the studs are too short and the threads are shot.

 

Gents let me take another approach. The 3.4 L saloon (AKA MK1) did not use the sealing rings like a MK2. It used flat gaskets. The poster has listed the car as a 1960 MK1 which of course was not produced. Trying to use the rings and the proper pipes on a flat gasket manifold would not work and it would seem the studs were too short. So at this point it is not clear if the car is a (MK1) or a MK2 and whether the exhaust system is for the wrong one. Shot threads are one thing but mis match of exhaust pipes and manifolds are another thing. Just wondering.

 

So the OP's manifolds have no inset to take the donut ?
And if that's the case, that would explain why his new exhaust is different. (and doesn't really fit)

I took a quick look at SNG Barratt and they list the wrong ones for the Mk I. (assuming he has a MK I)
The picture shows the ones with the donuts.

His may be a very late car and the registration may show 1960 ???

 

This is confusing, the Mk1 part No is C8981, and according to Jag Service Bulletin it says:-

Amendmentto Service Bulletin Number B.l4.

Since the issue of the above Service Bulletin, it has been found to be permissible to fit the latest steel/asbestos exhaust manifold gasket as a replacement for Part Number C.8981 in conjunction with the early type of manifolds and downpipes.

D Manners list the doughnut type with the later part number as a genuine Jag part as the replacement for C8981, so from that it looks like there should be no issue whether it was a Mk1 or Mk2, I can't find any reference to a flat gasket at all, do you know the part No. for the original part George, it doesn't seem to show in the parts catalogues.

 

I have no idea what it fits, I thought they were all the donut type.
It should be pretty obvious which gasket the manifold takes, the manifold that takes the donut type has a big recess in it where it fits.

Jaguar Exhaust Gasket, Flat Type - C495

 

Thanks Jeff, it looks like they are for the XK 120, 140, and 150, the Early manifolds were different according to the service bulletins, I suspect that the early ones had a smaller recess, the earlier service bulletin said that the manifolds had to be replaced, that was superseded by the bulletin I posted saying that the later gaskets could be used but did not mention changing the studs. In the parts Cat the early Mk2's used the same manifold as the Mk1 and then changed.

Sometimes these old cars do throw up some mysteries, it will be interesting to find out what the OP has on his car.

 

Well.... The OP has flown the coop...
All this going on _ wonder where he is ????

 

Maybe he didn't expect any help for weeks !!!!! Does he think this is the JEC forum ?

 

Maybe, what's funny is that over at the Ford Ranger forum, guys expect help with in hours.
These are working guys too, so they need their truck and many can't afford a mechanic, so there's that too.

 

If you have a Ford Ranger you need help !

A friend of mine had one, and had so much trouble with it from new that he handcuffed himself to the car outside a motor show with "I can't get no satisfaction" blaring out of the stereo until Ford agreed to give him his money back !

 

that's funny, I have been driving Ford Aerostar minivans since 1986. I'm on the third one, a 1997 4.0 liter extended body. REAR WHEEL DRIVE!! Last year made. They don't make rear wheel drive minivans anymore!!

these vans have been reliable, lots of power and room, they ride like a luxury car. But gas guzzlers they are. However, for my music business, I need a minivan, so on with the Aerostar until it falls apart. (it is in like new condition).

I refuse to buy any front wheel drive vehicle.

 

The 3 liter Ford Vulcan engines were very simple and reliable, that's what in my Mazda B3000 (sort of Ford).
Their 4 litres were pretty good to, with two exceptions.
The timing chain guides wore prematurely in some years and models requiring the removal of the engine to fix _ new guides were improved so the problem didn't re-occur.
The other problem is one model, you could not over heat it, not even a little, the valves were very close together.
The casting was very thin in that area and would crack there.
The later ones were better.

I don't know what the new Fords are like, but I refuse to blow upwards of 20 thousand or more on a big stupid truck.
They're so big you need a step ladder to get into them.
The top of the box is up to my chest and I'm six feet tall _ just ridiculous !

 

Thanks for all the replies guys. Just to clarify a little bit. This is my wifes grandfathers car that I am helping him replace the exhaust system on. When I removed the old exhaust from the 2 manifolds, I was thinking the new exhaust would be bolt on, at least that is what I was told. The old exhaust had a square gasket between the manifold flange and the flange on the exhaust system and the 2 square flanges mated flush to each other with the square gasket between them. The new exhaust uses a aluminum ring seal or donut as i see its referred to in here. There is no inset in the exhaust manifold to allow this donut to slip a bit into the manifold. Because of this the studs on the manifold are too short. I have since removed the manifolds, removed the studs and now plan to use fine thread longer bolts to make this connection. In doing so, i have found that one of the manifolds near the stud is cracked and since the manifold no longer mates flush with the exhaust system flange, the stress from the bolt will end up breaking the ear of this manifold very easily. I am now looking for 2 new exhaust manifolds. Also, im told this is the correct exhaust system for this engine, but I have no way of knowing for sure. I hope this clarifies a little bit and I do appreciate any input from this forum. I will check this forum more frequently since I now know that the replies are coming faster than i thought. Thanks again for all the input.

 

It looks like you have the Mk1 manifolds, what is the engine number ?

You should be able to fit the Mk2 manifolds and then the sealing doughnuts will work just fine.

With the engine number we can check for sure.

 

Again, sorry for the inexperience on my side. Where do I find the engine number? Also, since I am likely going to replace the manifolds, where can I find the MK2 manifolds. Thanks again for the reply.

 

The engine number should be stamped on the block near/above the oil filter housing, it should also be on the black/aluminium plate with the rest of the chassis numbers etc.

Where are you in the world ?

You can get the manifolds from SNG Barrett and also on eBay fairly readily.

 

I will try to get the engine number tomorrow. I am in the US, I will look on SNG Barrett, I think that is where he got the exhaust. Once I find the engine number, is it also possible to find out which is the correct exhaust for this engine. This is the whole reason he wants to change the exhaust as the old exhaust is not the correct exhaust according to him.