Interesting wheel/tyre combo, i'm not sure what I had imagined would be on the car, but for some reason this wasn't it.

Probably used to reading all the ProStock builds that go with a custom chassis and big motor in a classic car, then go with big brakes and large modern wheel/tyre combo.

So jealous though of this whole build! Absolutely love it

 

Tires & wheels.

Stony, you too can have an Art Morrison chassis. Just give Chris Bondy a call.

Lot of excitement here yesterday. Tires and wheels were handy, not the ones for the build. Calipers will not fit & rims too narrow. Checking spacing and centering. When we install the rear axle, I may be brave enough to order the tires and wheels.

 

I'm sure if I sold my total car collection I could build something to this extent, but then I wouldn't have 10 different cars I could work on at any one time (I need mental help)

After posting my reply, I did take a look and realise those rims would never fit with the calipers fitted. I'm certain you have something quite nice to fill the guards and none of us will be dissapointed.

Any hints to the sizes you will use?

 

Stony,
I too have tried working on four vehicles and four motorcycles. Had to cut back to three vehicles, farm out one. Motorcycles are still being patient.

Tires and wheels:
the design is for 245/45R 17 on 17"x8" front

275/40R 17 on 17"x9 on the rear.

These tires end up about ~25.8" tall - somewhere near stock height.

Will do more clearance checking after rear assembly is installed.

I hope to have it on all fours, in the street for pictures. We will have to kick the tires to steer.

 

Updates.


Front and rear suspensions bolted in over the last three days. Not the final in, of course. Calipers not mounted, as they will not fit in the 15" rims. Front sway bar frame mountings brackets need final fit and welding.


Can't take it, coming off the lift tomorrow, and we'll take it outside for pictures.


100% happy with the wheel positions. More measuring and maybe a front fender lip roll, prior to ordering the wheels.

 

Just ran across your build and I must say very nice. It's good to see I'm not the only one a little left of center. I look forward to following this build to completion. I may have missed this but what color is the beast going to be when finished?

 

1 of 19,
Thanks for looking.


Car is listed as Cream on its JDHT Certificate. Should have cleared the patina.


Multiple choice at the moment. BRG is a favorite - had a '66 Spitfire that was BRG. A silver blue metallic or silver turquoise metallic - more forgiving to blemish, or the original color.


I intend to leave some flaws - either on purpose or by accident.


Chrome has been steel wooled, waxed. leaving a college sticker on the rear bumper. Chrome is ok for 55 years old. Bumper overrides have plenty of wazoo's. Wood has been stripped, oiled and waxed - no repairs to missing veneer. Two Toyota Supra seats, cocoa mats, no back seat, spray sound deadner, roll cage. Shift light.


Concept is a "period" race or rally car - two leather hood straps with brass buckles.

 

This week - more Swiss Cheese, and cut and paste. I'm trying to use as must of the factory stamped panels as possible, knowing that after they get positioned back it, I'll cut some more out.


Wheel wells are moved in 2 1/8" each side. Tried to prove if I can go with a 9.5" rim in the rear or not. Print calls for a 9". Put suspension in four positions with the shocks - full up, full down, one wheel up/one down (see orange ratchet strap), then reversing sides. Looking more like 9 x17, after talking with the wheel company.


Rear seat pan to the center link hoop has been the most difficult to fit and decide where that cuts need made. Cuts and boxes will be needed to allow for the upward travel of the center link that attached to the top of the differential housing.

 

Looking good Clyde. I've learned that fitting complex panels around obstacles is no easy feat, so my hat's off to you - it takes a lot of time to get it right.

I'm posting a couple of pics of the beast's rear end to show you the clearance I have with 17 x 8 wheels. At full drop of the IRS I have a full 2 inches from the inner tire/wheel to the inner fender - the only exception is the lower rear inner radius which would need to be boxed a bit. I'd have no problem fitting 9 inch wheels in the stock wells. With a live axle and an additional 2 inches from moving the inner well I wouldn't think you'd have any problem fitting 10 inch wheels. It looks like your frame rails may be the limiting factor? If you haven't already, purchase one of those Wheelrite jigs which you can set for your offset and wheel/tire size and rotate at different suspension positions to check clearances - they're cheap plastic but they work.

 

Thanks for the pictures Doug!


Because it's a straight axle I have to deal with what I would guess to be a greater swing in and out at both top and bottom, depending on the axle at full extension and compression on opposite sides. I'm going for one more round of measuring, now that I have lip to lip measurements on the wheels.


I've dubbed myself "King of Take it Apart", but it is taking the "Three Kings of Put-it-Back-Together" for reassembly, not to mention the additional advice of the "Knight of the Arc Welder".

 

Packing in as much work as I can in three days a week. Doing the dishes and the laundry seems to get in the way.


Doug,
Thanks for the recommendation of the Wheel Rite. Purchased the Percy's Wheel Rite. Turned out to be a must have and a must do. Modified the bottom inside of the rear of the rear wheel wells. Looks like the rear is good to go with 17 x 9 1/2" wheels with 275/40/17 tires.
With 17 x 8" wheels and 245/45/17 tires in the front, it is likely the sway bar is the steering stop. More measuring and calls to AME.


Standing by for a close look at the new Nitto 555 G2's.


Rear seat pan, rear seat wall, wheel wells are tacked in. Will likely drop the rear end back out and pop the tub back on the rotisserie for final welds on this portion. Also going to close the gap where the wheel wells were moved in.


Picked up a pan and block for mock up. New set of challenges with this portion - putting it mildly.


As a side note, replaced four garage celling light fixtures and added three. Put in 8' fixtures with 4 T8 bulbs each. Four more to go. Enough light to perform brain surgery.

 

Had to put it on the ground, take it outside for pictures. Great day for these pictures.


Tires are taller than the ones that will be on the car. Stays are in place instead of shocks, so higher in front.


It's back inside on the rotisserie, rear end back out. Welding for seat pan, seat back, and wheel wells should be complete by the weekend.


Thanks for looking.

 

Very cool to see it on the ground. It is looking really good!

 

Trying to swear off of the project for a while, as if that will happen. Time to fish or cut bait on the transmission, as it is nearing time for the transmission mount and engine mounts.


Here's the latest on the tubbing. Welder says it is not tubbed, just a mini tub.


Attached are pictures of the "Mini Tub", and jacking boxes. Removed the inside lower curve at the bottom of the rear wheel well. Picture appears to be upside down, car is back upside down on the rotisserie. This makes for more tire.

 

Loving your build, wheel and tires look great!
Trying to finish up my gas tank and get mine fired up.
Looking forward to wiring it and my body man is already bugging me.

 

Reminded by Facebook that I was putting this build on the rotisserie one year ago. Took it off for pictures, now it's back in the rotisserie. It's been a great piece of equipment for this build.

Going to try to close the trunk floor this week. That will only be to cut it back up for a fuel tank mounting.

With luck, engine & transmission mounts by the holidays. Of course, that requires the purchase of trans & bell housing. Machine shop is setting me up with a mock up motor. I want to start the engine build in January.

 

Made a trip to the machine shop to pick up the mock up engine - block, heads, crank, damper, and tall valve covers. We are hoping the only cutting for clearance will be to the top inside corners of the foot wells, instead of moving the entire footwell section back. Pictures found on the net show Ford 302's just fitting. 351W's are taller and wider.


Ordered the "road race" oil pan.


Fish or cut bait. I decided it was time to fish. Visited the friendly folks at "Summit Racing" (no affiliation). Picked up the Tremec close ratio 6 speed & bell housing. Handy place, only 25 minutes from the house.


Still hope to get two days in on the boot/trunk floor. We are fitting in the old floor in order to cut it up again to install a fuel cell/tank.

 

Calamity of errors this week - all engine hoist false starts. Ended up with one from everybody's favorite with a 25% off coupon. Still need to move the shifter to the center position. More parts shopping.


Trunk floor has been fit, not welded. It's in five pieces. (no pictures).


Engine mount is a "Paul Horten's Welders Series", no affiliation, high quality.


Tested seat, gages, and column today.

 

Almost Happy New Year to Members and Guests!


The Ford 351W is in for the first look. Had to remove the rear 1/3 off of the transmission tunnel, plus we removed the top of the drive shaft tunnel back to just behind the e-brake mounting pads. Forgot to cover that surgery with a photo.


What I think we know so far: 1)going to carve the front cross member close to 1/2 it's depth and invert and weld in the removed piece for strength; engine mounts I have are not likely the ones I will end up using; found some engine mount possibilities on the INTERNET - phone calls will be necessary; can't go any further without the pan - it's suppose to be here on Monday.


Working on carving decisions for the tops of the foot wells. We might move the steering shaft opening ~1/2" outboard.


Again, Happy New Year to All!

 

Looks like you spark plug access is OK _ at least at this point.
I watch this sort of stuff on TV and many of them use a styrofoam casting of the engine.
I don't know how expensive something like that is though, but it certainly would be allot easier that using the actual engine.