TillyJon,
I'm sure Mike would be happy to help you out. Ship your car in...after we are done with mine.

"Mike the Magnifico" only works Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday evenings. First header was quick - 10 hours , five evenings.
Ahead of that was 3-4 evenings on the rings in the transmission cross member and merge collector positioning.
First and third pipes are removed individually. Pipes two and four come out with the collector.
We'll see how long it takes to go around the steering.

 

Would be much cheaper to ship Mike out Clyde

Jon

 

good evening,

Left side header is tacked up. I missed taking the underside picture of the completed left header. I'll post it on Saturday or Monday. The rear three tubes went to the outside of the steering shaft. The front tube snaked to the inside.

Thanks for looking.

 

That is beautiful exhaust work! Are you going to heat treat them? I used Jet Hot 2500 extreme coating on my headers. Your big horsepower motor with those large exhaust pipes are going to radiate some monster heat.

 

Primaz,
Good morning. You're right on all accounts.
The BES, the head builder said " no coating on the inside, to much overlap on the cam. If it flakes off inside it will get sucked back.
Mike the Magnifico says "you've got to be careful with stainless. Heat makes it move."
Each tube has an individual flange, and is slip fit into the collector. Locking tabs secure the collector.
90% of me says coat them. I'll have to have more discussions with Mike.

Thanks for the comments.

 

I have been very impressed with Jet Hot Coating. I used their Extreme 2500 coating for the headers and that really reduces heat more than any other coating. My headers were factory coated, I believe Headman headers and their chrome looking ceramic coating did not reduce heat much at all compared to the Jet Hot Coating 2500 Extreme. I used their next tier down, that comes in chrome for my intake manifold on another car to give it the chrome look as the 2500 comes in a variety of colors, not chrome and is more of a flatter color but it works great.


When you order the 2500 Extreme they normally coat the inside with their Jet Hot 1300 coating on the inside and then apply the 2500 on the outside. You may want to talk to them and/or mention this firm to your head builder as I have never heard of the inside 1300 coating ever breaking down. If I were to do the exhaust all over I think it would be nice to section it so that I could ship them in under 4 or 5' sections and I would coat the entire exhaust ( the first 1/2 or 3/4 with the 2500 then the last section with either the 1300 or the 2000 depending on which comes in chrome color.


Also I wish I had used the Heat Shield adhesive Lava coat in the transmission tunnel. Now that the engine is installed my fit is so tight that if I want to add that coating I would have to remove the engine and trans and a lot of other things as you cannot remove the tranny otherwise... I say this as without the trans tunnel lined and/or the exhaust coated in some way the heat will build up there and V8's put out a heck of a lot of heat. Maybe you might just try the Heat Shield Lava coating in the trans tunnel, the firewall and above any floor board where the exhaust is directly under first as that might be enough? If your exhaust is in sections you can always send it out for coating later?

 

For what it is worth, I used Jet-Hot Coatings to refurbish my exhaust manifolds, and they were great to work with. I would highly recommend them too.

 

Primaz, Csbush,
I've used Jet Hot before with great results, as with my local powder coater. My welder has me concerned that any heat applied to the stainless header is likely to make them move and not fit. I'm sure he means they'll move if the heat is applied unevenly. More research needed. I do have the advantage of the footwell moved back 3" - allowing an escape route for heat not afforded in the stock engine compartment. I've treated multiple sets of mild steel headers with great results in reducing engine compartment heat.


thanks for the info and concern.

 

I'm planning on using some of the same heat barriers as I did on my '77. Inside the car will get a first coat of Lizard Skin Ceramic, then their spray sound deadener. I don't have the name of the quilted aluminum/insulated foil but here are some pics.
Tunnel and firewall are foil coated. Firewall also has the factory heat shield board. Cockpit is cool, despite the big block. Underhood is Lizard Skin Ceramic. Outside of hood is only warm to the touch on hottest days.


Had some other thoughts: Heads were $x,xxx ( and the first digit was not 1-5). Engine is $xx,xxx, and I don't know what the first digit will be, yet.
Tony at BES recommended no coatings inside the headers. The inside of the headers on the '77 are coated. I DO want to coat the outside of the headers for the '60, as I know from experience coatings work. In fear of Murphy, I'm sticking with Tony on the headers for the '60.

 

Exhaust system back is back to the cross member ahead of the differential. Tail pipe material not due in until February. Not as if there is not anything to do in the meantime.

 

Looks sweet, Clyde - can't believe the size of those pipes. Is there clearance for fuel and brake lines on the inner rail at the H pipe bracket, or are you routing elsewhere?

 

Doug,
Thanks for looking.
Brake line will travel inside the cockpit through an adjustable proportioning valve. Fuel feed and return will run on the outside of the right rail, I think.
Carb, pump, regulator, and a fuel pressure gage arrived yesterday. 980 wet flow was the projection, but I have not looked at the bench test sheet.
Going to build a mock fuel cell. Hoping to install a 22 gallon cell.
What looks like the "H" pipe is the transmission cross member. Actual "H" will be ~1" behind the cross member.
Lucked out on the e-brake cable clearance due to the engine offset. I'm using the stock lever.
Muffler pockets have been cut into the floors - making two humps behind the front seats.
Thought we'd be building the engine this month, but I want to mock up the front of the engine for alternator to right inner fender clearance. Also checking spacing for a radiator. I'll be using your plan on the radiator. All holes in the inner fenders will be welded shut. New holes will be drilled as necessary.
The more I do, the more turns up to do - as you know. Your build is many more times complicated that this striped out machine of mine.

 

"H" pipe finished. Splits in the center for easy removal of the entire system. Still delayed in remainder of tail pipe parts.

 

Clyde,
this may be a stupid question, what's the theory behind the H pipe, I haven't seen this before, it may be common on high BHP cars.

Exhaust design intrigues me, so am interested to understand the physics behind this.

 

I love the pictures. They put a big stupid grin on my face as I look at the beautiful work. I can't imagine how excited you are.

 

TillyJon,
"H" pipes will help canceling noise, maybe help with economy. I could not find much on "H" pipe theory to determine size. I used 2 1/2". The rest of the system is 3".
"X" piles cancel noise, scavenge exhaust, increase power, & help economy.
There was not enough room for a "X" pipe. I put one on my '77 XJ12L. The Flowmaster "X" (no affiliation) I used has a smaller opening in the "X". some exhaust is pulled through the intersection by the pulse on the opposite side. The remaining exhaust travels the original route.
Tail pipes and length of exhaust also reduce noise. The '77 has more wind noise in the cabin than anything else. All the roar is out the back.

The '60 MK2 will be louder no matter for many reasons - 200 more HP, more compression,
Thanks for looking.

 

CSBUSH,
I am ear to ear with a grin every time I walk in the garage. At this point I'm ordering sh$t everyday, trying to keep up with this project.
Thanks for looking.

 

Clyde,
thought I would do some reading on H pipes etc. now you have wet my curiosity, I found this which maybe of interest to others askiing the same question.

X-pipes and H-pipes Add Easy Horsepower

They suggest that the crossover pipe should be as big or bigger, not sure why. I will do more reading, it looks like it would benefit any dual exhaust for balance and sound resonance, but I guess this depends on firing order, and benefits I guess are greater on a V8 ?

 

TillyJon,
Super article. Wish I had stumbled on that prior to my pipe size choice. Also the section of the article about "H"'a being louder is interesting. I can attest to the "X" giving a great sound to the '77 with the 462 BBC.
I wonder if a Tri-Y setup might work for a "6"? Had one on a VW dune buggy. They are suppose to hep with bottom and midrange.

 

Blimey Clyde, I'm going to have to look that up too now ! I've been drawing out sine wave curves to show firing point(intake area) and exhaust areas relative to each pipe to see if and how much pressure difference there is between the two at any one point it appears that one side is 120 deg behind the other on a 6, I will look at from a V8 point too just for interest, what is the firing order for your V8 and which cylinders are on which side ?
It would be interesting to see the difference between a 6 and 8 to see if there is much difference, I am guessing it will be the lag angle, the closer to 180 deg the more benefit would be gained as one side is at high pressure and the other low.

I will post the graphs when I manage to complete them, I can do it by hand easily, but want to make it look a bit more presentable to post it.