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Gene
I am a bit late in entering your thread. However I after over 55 years of older Jaguars I would tender these observations. Low oil pressure, especially after a long run:
As long as the idle oil pressure remains around 10 to 20 PSI there is no problem. My first Mk7 Jaguar when I was 21 which is over 55 years ago did that and I was advised by the local Jaguar dealer (Westco Motors) that this is normal. Their advice was to remove the oil filler cap while the engine was running and if there was plenty of oil moving through the camshaft covers all would be OK. I suspect they were experts as they were also racing a D type and a MK 1, Actually Jaguar changed oil pressure gauges from 0-100 PSI to 0-60 PSI as customers were concerned at the very low gauge indications. There has been a lot of garbage disseminated over the years about Jaguar oil pressure which is sheer bull ---t.. MK2 Jaguar Oil pressure gauges tell lies
I have found again and again that the MK2 oil pressure gauge is an unreliable piece of pommy( Australian for English) junk. You need to use a direct reading gauge to see what is really happening. I sorted one out a few years ago where the owner was about to commit to a an engine rebuild based on low oil pressure. Using a direct reading gauge the oil pressure was OK. DG250 Automatic Gearboxes
I scanned your previous problems with this auto box. Nobody raised the problem of possible low oil. The DG box weirdly requires that the engine is running with the gear selector in L to check oil level in the gear box. I have owned 1 Auto MK1 and 2 Auto MK2s and assure you this is correct. I have also checked my original Jaguar factory workshop manual and the procedure is on Page A24.
I hope this helps
Oil Pressure:
I agree with everything you've said Bill. This has been the consensus from other Mk2 owners and mechanics I've talked to. Before I driver her I always make sure all fluids are topped off, then I watch all gauges like a hawk, but more importantly I listen to the car like a mechanic. When the oil pressure drops I pay particular attention to the temp gauge. I've driven her over 1000 miles with no issues but I've also only driven her short distances
DG-250
I've replaced it with a 5-speed. So now I have a whole new raft of quirks to deal with. But at least this transmission has an overdrive!
2021 should be a transformative year for our "Ms Verity". I have a lot of replacement parts for the interior(wood trim, insulation, upholstery incoming) that will be going in this year. Good odds that some of it will go in early next year
As always, thank you for the support and advice. Cheers!
So I reckon I need to post more intermediate steps with my construction posts? Well here goes anyway. I worked with a gentleman online who produces wood trim kits. Unfortunately the kits do not come with hardware. So I scavenged from my own or replaced with "better". Since I know who is going to have to work behind these panels I made this easier to remove than what came off the factory floor. Sure I may have DQ'd myself from 99 points at Pebble but "c'est la vie" First a little "cardboard-aided-design"... My setup is pretty primitive. I beat the bracket into shape on my cheapy Harbor Freight vice and drilled the holes with my cordless drill Driver gauge cluster in place This was from a couple weeks ago. You can see the plywood substitute that I have used for the last couple years for the driver side gauges. God willing I'll never go back to that.
Gene 61 jag
Well done!
This is what restoration is all about. An owner sorting out the problems and fixing it.
Forget about the mob at Pebble Beach as they are almost 100% "cheque book" restorations by professionals with no money limits involved to secure a trophy, distinction and plaudits from the press. in fact the owners may have never driven the car!!!
Don't apologise for cheap tools. I am not familiar with Harbor Freight but it sounds like Aussie "Super Cheap" and my six inch vice from that source has endured many years of abuse.
Don't fret about the plywood piece for the gauge system. As I wrote in an article many years ago for the Jaguar Drivers Club of Queensland (google JDCQ tech tips) it is better to be out and about with cloth seat covers and other such things and enjoying your car rather than sitting waiting or saving up for Connolly hide upholstery and new carpets etc.
I am not sure about the heat reduction thing you are talking about. However you really need some serious under carpet matting to prevent noise. the original insulation was a jute like substance but I have not seen that for years. I have been using some carpet under matting which appears to be composed of some form of many pieces of foam plastic molded together. I suggest you have a serious discussion with a local carpet supplier as they have become very sophisticated in the last decade and may be able to help in the heat and noise areas.
Yeah mate, no worries. We've got a driver. I plan on fixing her up to our liking, then driving the wheels off her. No apologizing - I think what I'm doing is showing that plain ol' "blokes" like you and me can do these restos with a little creativity.
Not from QLD, but some of my heat/sound dampening is coming from just outside Canberra - Every hear of "Car Builders"? My mate Louis hooked me up with some good stuff! Should be here within a week, maybe 2
Gene
Yes I know about "Car Builders" in Australia and they also retail through the "Supercheap" chain of stores as well as other automotive outlets.
I did not think to recommend them as it would involve international transactions.
Best of luck with the shipping timeframe as this country lurches state by state into and out of Covid lockdowns. International passenger flights are just about zilch. I am not sure what international freight flights are doing.
Gene ~ we sandblasted the original bituminous anti drumming sheet off of the floor for the repaint (no rust)
Then after painting rolled on self adhesive Dynamat. Application roller provided.
Fitted a precut John Skinner underfelt kit. That old jute stuff is still available but crap & nasty to work with.
Fitted John Skinner made up carpet kit. (whole interior kit provided by John Skinner that you can see in link provided.) ~ Skinner uses some of my S Type pics on his site. See my signature if interested.
There are many work arounds to save money. I went the lazy route. You will find alternative materials to do the job. An anti drumming/thermal layer under the underfelt is crucial. I consider Dynamat the Rolls Royce but there are many substitutes that will do the job. My car is dead quiet & a pleasure to drive. Us oldies can definitely do the job & enjoy.
Heed Bill Mac's wise advice about trailer queens for Pebble Beach & don't let perfection get in the way of very good & driveable. If I can't drive & enjoy it I don't want it.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 08-05-2021 at 07:58 AM.
Gene
Yes I know about "Car Builders" in Australia and they also retail through the "Supercheap" chain of stores as well as other automotive outlets.
I did not think to recommend them as it would involve international transactions.
Best of luck with the shipping timeframe as this country lurches state by state into and out of Covid lockdowns. International passenger flights are just about zilch. I am not sure what international freight flights are doing.
Bill
Their insulation is already here Well, mine now. I guess I better get moving! I was not expecting that for another month. And I know... "pics or it didn't happen" but let me install some of it first. That's where it will do some good after all.
Gene ~ we sandblasted the original bituminous anti drumming sheet off of the floor for the repaint (no rust)
Then after painting rolled on self adhesive Dynamat. Application roller provided.
Fitted a precut John Skinner underfelt kit. That old jute stuff is still available but crap & nasty to work with.
Fitted John Skinner made up carpet kit. (whole interior kit provided by John Skinner that you can see in link provided.) ~ Skinner uses some of my S Type pics on his site. See my signature if interested.
There are many work arounds to save money. I went the lazy route. You will find alternative materials to do the job. An anti drumming/thermal layer under the underfelt is crucial. I consider Dynamat the Rolls Royce but there are many substitutes that will do the job. My car is dead quiet & a pleasure to drive. Us oldies can definitely do the job & enjoy.
Heed Bill Mac's wise advice about trailer queens for Pebble Beach & don't let perfection get in the way of very good & driveable. If I can't drive & enjoy it I don't want it.
Glyn,
I think you and I are on the same page as well. I have 2 packs of Dynamat that I am putting down first, then the "Car Builders" heat/sound dampening, and then(coincidentally) a John Skinner carpet and upholstery trim kit - when it arrives. Remember I wrote about this year being a transformative year for our car? Her interior is changing from a noisy, hot, barren shell to a quieter, cooler, much more beautiful "living room", God willing.
But "Rome wasn't built in a day", and Rome was built by people who were a bit younger than me - lol. Please be patient. I'll post pics when I can.
After putting sound and heat dampening material down for the last couple weeks I figured it was time to fire up the "ol' girl"... only she wouldn't start. I could hear fuel being pumped to the front, but no start. Starter motor wouldn't start, Talked thru a few things with work-mates and we more-or-less agreed - "starter solenoid". But I wanted to make sure. I "texted a friend" who told me about a button on the solenoid. Wha? news to me.
Anyway, I also looked online for a solution. That brought me back to this forum (of course) and a post from CASS (1-24-2020)
"
Basic wiring on the Jaguar for the starter is the cable from the battery goes to the solenoid on the bulkhead then a second cable goes from the solenoid to the starter.
When you push the starter button on the dash or the button on the solenoid you are basically just joining the cable from the battery to the one that goes to the starter for the duration that the button is pushed.
If you push the button and you can hear the starter click either the starter is not turning/jammed or there is not enough power going to the starter as it draws a lot of current.
Check the battery is fully charged.
Check the earth from battery to bulkhead earth is good.
Check the engine earth strap is good.
If there is no click the problem might lie with the solenoid on the bulkhead.
Try jumping the cable from the battery direct onto the cable going to the starter motor. If the starter fires up it is the solenoid. If it clicks then check as above.
"
I had just gotten a new battery to rule that out as a suspect. I looked over that cables that I could see - they looked fine.
A couple days ago I also checked continuity on that button with the battery disconnected. To my untrained eye that seemed fine. The readings we were getting when we tested the button were not "infinity"(not depressed) or "zero"(depressed) like I originally expected, but then I chalked that up to a resistance put in place so as not to fry the starter button with 100% of the battery's amps.
Today I connected the battery and pressed the solenoid switch - the starter immediately cranked.
I believe:
Starter - good
Battery - good
Fuel pump - good
Start button - good(?)
Ign. Solenoid - Suspect
I believe the reason the engine did not start is because the choke was not engaged
So, what do you all think? Windings on the solenoid bad? Or possible the starter button? Something else I might be missing? I would not call myself a "car guy" so any help, no matter how basic-sounding, would be appreciated.
You require air, enough fuel (enrichment) & spark at the right time to run. (cold start) ~ basically air, fuel, spark.
Check that you have spark at plugs & report. If you have spark the AED might be at fault or it's needle not set rich enough for your ambient conditions.
Remove a plug & earth it & check for spark while cranking with ignition on at key.
Is your fuel fresh?
Does pushing the dash button activate the scuttle/firewall solenoid?
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 08-28-2021 at 09:00 PM.
You require air, enough fuel (enrichment) & spark at the right time to run. (cold start) ~ basically air, fuel, spark.
Check that you have spark at plugs & report. If you have spark the AED might be at fault or it's needle not set rich enough for your ambient conditions.
Remove a plug & earth it & check for spark while cranking with ignition on at key.
Is your fuel fresh?
Does pushing the dash button activate the scuttle/firewall solenoid?
Had errands tonight so testing will have to wait until tomorrow. Babysitting animals of in-laws...
Fuel is fresh. Non-ethanol gas from about a month or 2 ago
"Does pushing the dash button activate the scuttle/firewall solenoid?" This is my primary reason I suspect the solenoid coil. When I push the dash button nothing happens but, when we tested resistance between the leads to that button, there was a significant resistance change when I pushed the button. (Infinity undepressed; 8 ohms depressed, if I remember correctly)
Sorry I did not fully understand you re dash button/solenoid. I fitted a new dash button & scuttle solenoid. They take a clobbering & their contacts pit badly. Primary coil in solenoid may be toast.
I cannot recall if your car is an auto or manual. If Auto then the solenoid on the bulk head will turn the engine over when pushed whether in gear or not. The starter button on the dash will not turn the engine over if the car is in gear only when in P or N.
If you have a manual and it will not turn over on the dash button then the bulkhead solenoid is defunct. Check the wiring first and if no joy a new one is not that much from SNG. I fitted a new one only a couple of weeks ago thinking mine was broken only to find out my Automatic gear box inhibitor switch was broken.
Good catch Rob. Paging back to early posts in this thread. It seems this car has a DG 250. So inhibitor switch & wiring should be added to this no start list.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 08-29-2021 at 01:29 PM.
I did not read back but if as you said it is a DG250 then the wiring to the inhibitor switch needs to be checked and the inhibitor switch its self. With the DG250 the inhibitor switch is under the dash behind the steering cowl. Easier to get to than the BW35 which is on the side of the gearbox.
I cannot recall if your car is an auto or manual. If Auto then the solenoid on the bulk head will turn the engine over when pushed whether in gear or not. The starter button on the dash will not turn the engine over if the car is in gear only when in P or N.
If you have a manual and it will not turn over on the dash button then the bulkhead solenoid is defunct. Check the wiring first and if no joy a new one is not that much from SNG. I fitted a new one only a couple of weeks ago thinking mine was broken only to find out my Automatic gear box inhibitor switch was broken.
Well this is very interesting indeed. Our car started life as an Automatic. The shop that installed the 5-speed may have deactivated (jumpered?) that inhibitor switch to get the 5-speed to work.
My most recent work was behind the driver's instrument panel (which sits right above the steering column). I may have jostled something loose. The car had been working fine until I started working on the driver's side.
Regarding the bulkhead solenoid, I came to the same conclusion as you (that it doesn't cost much anyway) and bought one. It is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. If that does not solve the issue then I still have a few avenues to follow.
There are/were four wires that go to the inhibitor switch and all the inhibitor switch does by use of a plunger connects the opposing wires as required. Two are for the reversing light and th eother two are for the gearbox inhibitor. By removing the inhibitor switch and directly connecting the two wires required for the starter button the car should start which ever gear you are in. Maybe they connected these two wires together and as you said you have disturbed them. If so easy fix.
Well this is very interesting indeed. Our car started life as an Automatic. The shop that installed the 5-speed may have deactivated (jumpered?) that inhibitor switch to get the 5-speed to work.
My most recent work was behind the driver's instrument panel (which sits right above the steering column). I may have jostled something loose. The car had been working fine until I started working on the driver's side.
Regarding the bulkhead solenoid, I came to the same conclusion as you (that it doesn't cost much anyway) and bought one. It is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. If that does not solve the issue then I still have a few avenues to follow.
Thank you gentlemen!
Ah! That's what threw me. I thought I saw a fancy floor change lever in one of your later pics.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 08-30-2021 at 07:16 PM.
While you are on the subject of the inhibitor /reverse light switch I thought I would draw your attention to a problem in the MK1 and MK 2 automatic wiring diagrams.
The switch terminal numbers shown on the wiring diagram are incorrect. If connected up as per the wiring diagram it becomes a shambles of power going to the wrong places.For those who are interested, look at the wiring diagram for the automatic selector switch and re-label terminal 2 as 3 and terminal 3 as 2.
I can only wonder who was responsible for this wiring diagram blunder which occurred over 60 years ago in the MK1 and carried on into the MK2.
I have original Jaguar factory service manuals for MK 1&2 as well as a number of Scientific, Haynes and similar manuals and they all have this incorrect feature.
Bill Mac
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07-08-2021, 01:37 AM
Well, mine now. I guess I better get moving! I was not expecting that for another month. And I know... "pics or it didn't happen" but let me install some of it first. That's where it will do some good after all.
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