Can't go to garage tonight because a certain person has other plans. So with not enough to do, I thought I'd edit Jim's t-shirt photo. It now says: You're a naughty boy. Go to your garage.

 

AIR CLEANER: I ordered an air cleaner paper filter on eBay and it is too tall to fit correctly in the housing, just over 2.3". I've ordered a replacement and I will post the result when it arrives. The vendor accepts the returned items. I emailed the OEM of the Coopers filter in France in an attempt to get the original dimensions, since it's a discontinued item, and have received no response. The one I took out that's filthy is OD 13.5" ID 11.75" and 2.0625" Height. Anything over 2" tall or so and the lid doesn't close all the way. I did a lot of searching online and did not find a match to this, but I did find 2 others that I think will fit. Stay tuned.

The air cleaner exterior now has the hammered finish. I used a stainless metallic appliance epoxy on the inside. The rubber is coated in silicone grease (plumber's grease). The whole thing is looking pretty much as it should.

Sorry about making a big deal about the air cleaner support. It needed straightening, too.

ENGINE START-UP PREP

Moving on to the distributor and ignition cables, and spark plugs. I'll drop some oil in the cylinders and attempt to turn the engine over by hand with the spark plugs out, of course.

 

as far as I know, SNG Barrat USA store has the correct air filters for MK-2 and S type and 420.

 

Theirs is also too tall for my air cleaner housing. Their replacement for the C16484 is approximately 12.5 outside dia overall, 9 ¾ inside and 2 6/8 height. They also stated, as the eBay supplier did, that "this is not completely as original but it what has been supplied for many years now due to availability issues of any others."

Stay tuned.

 

you might check with this guy in the UK:

Jaguar MK II Mark 2 Round Air filter 3.4 3.8 C16484 MK2 GFE1034 X 10 | eBay

 

The engine turned over easily. I installed the ignition cable set I made from a kit by Taylor, cleaning up the chrome separators, installing new rubber grommets. These are tinned copper core silicone wires with a neat spring snap to the spark plug. They have the quality worthy of the car, except for the white printing. Sort of like big tire lettering. At least it wasn't embossed . I removed that with some lacquer thinner, then wiped them down with Armorall so they are all black.

The plugs as found were Autolite 65, needing a 13/16" socket to remove. The are shorter than the replacement Champion 404 RN12YC (13/16" socket version). The #5 and #6 plugs I removed had oily deposits so oil may be leaking past the rings or valve guides into the combustion chamber. If an Autolite 65 is a colder plug, the new ones may relieve the problem temporarily. Head gasket could be blown there.

Now I just want to get the engine running so I can move the car easily in and out of the garage.

 

As mentioned, the air cleaner paper elements I sourced from 2 regular Jaguar vendors are taller than they should be to close the air cleaner lid so it seats inside the lip of the lower pan. I did find a replacement that is 14" OD and 2" tall. I centered it in the pan and tightened the lid. It's probably available at any auto supply down the street and costs $12.99 (no sales tax in Oregon). The mfr and product number are in the photo. I found it completely by accident when I was looking for the sparking wire kit. It's more common for 50s Chevies I was told. I spent an hour or so searching through product catalogs to find something that fit well.

 

A funny thing happened on the way to cleaning the fuel pump filter in preparation for re-starting the engine, a filthy trunk. Being easily distracted, I decided to clean it up. This included giving the interior and the mat a thorough scrubbing, stripping the tools of paint and rust (the crank especially), the wire-wheel spare with its hold down, and the side panels, under which, on the left I found the fuel pump.

When the fuel pump didn't match the service illustration, I went through a couple of boxes of crusty old parts and found the original one. It was 1/3 full of a rusty powder, like cocoa, and the filter, not sure if it will clean up in gas. I may be able to repair it, but I'll do it later. It obviously wouldn't operate with all that stuff in it. The new one works fine. I'm going to slosh some gas in the tank, drain it and look at it, then put some regular gas in it.

With the Packard, I had hardened valve seats installed.
QUESTION: What is the normal procedure for dealing with today's unleaded ethanol-loaded fuel?
There was an empty bottle of lead substitute in the boxes.

I cleaned up the spare.
QUESTION There is one broken and one bent spoke. What is the normal procedure for that? I suppose a small reach-around wrench like the ones I have for brass fuel-line fittings would be ok on the spokes.

 

Yoo Hoo, Anyone.

Couple questions up there to grok. Also, the AC breather cap requires the mesh to be washed in petrol and coated with "Lockheed Fluid." Is that brake fluid?

 

when it comes to wire wheels and spokes' replacing or repair, I prefer to let an expert do it because I know my limitations. There is a company called "Hendrix Wire Wheels" which deals with wire wheel repairs, I would ask them; I know that the spokes have to be torqued, so when one breaks, others will follow, but that's about all I know.

my '65 S type runs fine with unleaded, no valve issues, and I know little about Packards except that the original Heater Valve in my S type came from a 1950's Packard heater valve design.

I have cleaned the mesh filter with gasoline and put it back, never applied anything to it. The Factory Service Manual says to "clean it with petrol".
I have no clue what "Lockheed Fluid" is.

Trivia:
William Lyons, owner of Jaguar, spent a lot of his time shopping for parts at USA car manufacturers like Studebaker, Packard, Ford from the 1950's on, and from 1967, at GM.

my S type came from the factory with a Studebaker DG250 transmission, a Ford Power Steering system, and of course, the Packard heater valve.

my '84 XJ-6 has a GM Saginaw power steering pump and GM rack & pinion, GM power window motors, AC Delco Air Pump and Diverter, GM Harrison A6 a/c compressor, Borg Warner 66 transmission, and many other domestic manufacturer components.

 

Thanks, Jose. There's a brake servo air cleaner. The cap references Lockheed Fluid. Lockheed Fluid is brake fluid. L8 in the Service manual.

OK at engine swap I got the point on modifications and that this is the primary interest of MK2 forum members. Interesting that parts were sourced in USA, (the interchange manuals offer plenty of evidence of that), but the 50s were our automotive heyday. Just hadn't thought that European mfrs looked here.

 

ok got it, I have the same "filter" in my S type. I thought you were asking about the cylinder head breather mesh.

yes, William Lyons, (owner of Jaguar), used to shop for parts at Packard, Studebaker, GM, Ford, and American Motors, as well as Lucas UK & Bosch Germany. My S type has the original Ford power steering, Studebaker tranny, and other US parts.

 

The detour through the boot is done for now. The side panels are clean and painted with new fasteners, size 6 instead of the size 4 originals, half of which were gone. The wood block got a fresh coat of yellow paint. I also removed the license plate which had to be cut off with a Dremel disk. I'm cutting off and removing the 2 broken/bent spokes on the spare and replacing those, with some help from Consolidated, the local Jaguar specialists, where I also joined the Oregon region. So turned my attention back to the fuel supply. There is no filter built into the new fuel pump, so that job is done. I removed the inline fuel filter with the glass bowl upfront. Cleaned everything thoroughly. Removed the banjo bolts on the carburetor and found no filter, a cone-shape spring with a screen, at either end. Next, the gas tank.

 

In removing one of the banjo bolts from the incoming fuel line to the carburetor, I dropped the fiber washer and could not find it. I bought a fiber washer with the same OD and used a sanding roll on the Dremel tool to get the ID to match the original.

The petrol tank filter/plug was on so tight, I needed a 13/16th in. socket on a breaker bar to loosen it after soaking the edges in Kroil penetrating oil overnight. The gasket gave way, so have to replace that, but it's a wonder any fuel went through that filter. The tank had about 3 gals in it of deep red-orange-brown fuel. I'm going to put a gallon of fresh fuel in, slosh it and drain it. See what that looks like. Then another with the line to the fuel filter up front disconnected just before the filter, to see what the pump pushes through. I'm expecting more gunk from the fuel line itself. Once it looks ok, if it does, I'll move on tot he cooling system, then try to start the motor. If not I'll remove the tank and have it treated at Mac's radiator and sealed.

The petrol tank filter/plug is brass, I discovered in cleaning it. I boiled it and cleaned it with Brasso and a toothbrush, the plug with a brass brush. There was a small tear at the top and 2 tiny pin holes which I soldered. So now to find a 1-3/8 ID gasket.

 

the seal is sold at SNG Barratt USA store, around $ .90 cents. Tell them to mail it in an envelope so you don't pay UPS $15.00 to deliver it. I think they are the same seal for all Jaguar tank's drain bolts, (some type of neoprene), my '65 S type uses the same tank drain bolt seals as my '84 XJ-6. you might add a little Hylomar between the seal and the tank for a positive leak-free fit without having to overtighten. That's what I do. (I'd use Hylomar on that fiber washer too).

cleaning the tank: I used my garden hose and sprayer at full pressure and sprayed water inside the tanks from the top and from the bottom (both my Jags have twin tanks), until all the gunk came out and water was clean; Then I took my air compressor and dried them the same way, let the tanks drip dry any water droplets overnight with ambient air circulating, some more air pressure next day, until I was satisfied they were dry, sealed the tanks, added high octane fuel and a bottle of STP to get rid of any residual water, drove it for 30 miles one way, then back another 30. Like new.

 

YOu've brought back some happy memories of my time rebuilding a Mk2 in the '80s.

The "tick-tick" type of fuel pumps have mostly been replaced by solid state electrics now, although I think you can still get the old ones rebuilt, but for infrequent use of the car the later electronic ones are probably better.

BTW have you checked out the non-return valve screwed into the reservac tank under the wing ? These are made of Mazak, and normally crumble away to dust. If it does, there will be no servo assistance so you'll really have to press on that brake pedal !! The leakage will also cause the engine to run a bit rough too. The reservac tanks also tend to rust out at the top where the mud collects.

For lead-free operation with my MG Midget I use Castrol Valvemaster Plus, which also has an octane booster in it. Having said that, most Jaguar engines are OK on unleaded because the valve seats are pressed into the aluminium head, and are hardened so don't erode.

 

Thanks,

I'll check the reservac, Fraser. The work done on the car the last time it went into storage maybe 12 years ago appears to have included, besides the new fuel pump, a new clutch and two brake units, and some brake hoses. The brakes might work. Haven't gotten that far, yet.

I picked up some form-a-gasket for gasoline applications and some green Prestone.

I guess I'll have to remove the tank. Grr.

 

Drained radiator. Maybe a gallon of antifreeze, still very greenish, but dark. Didn't drain the block yet. Need to roll the car outside and pressure wash it. Tired of spider webs. Cleaned up the radiator and repaired a side view mirror whose mirror was broken. I bought one with a plastic base, removed the mirror disk which is chromed metal, ground down and flattened one side of its screw so it would fit through the hole in theoriginal metal base and replaced it. I used duct tape, several layers to be sure I didn't mess up the the back of the mirror while grinding the screw. It's not a big thing. I'm proud of myself. It worked and I didn't break anything.

 

Cleaning the tank. Jose, Did you remove the tank? And what product did you use to seal it?
I'm thinking that if I remove it, I should take it to a local radiator place that boils them out and seals them.
I'm getting antsy about wanting to start the car. The rain finally arrived here last weekend, but I was able to roll the car outside, jack it up all around, pressure wash the dirt and cobwebs out, and miraculously push it back up the minute incline into the garage before the rain hit. At first it wouldn't budge. I was only able to do it by using a 4 ft crowbar under the front bumper as a lever, pulling up on it with my arms, while pushing the car back with my legs. When all that dead weight actually moved a few inches back I started to laugh, but then had to get around to lift the handbrake so I wouldn't lose any ground. This may be an old trick everyone knows, but new to me. I was amazed at my own strength.

 

Joe,
I did not remove the tankS (spelled with an S, because my S type has two tanks). No sealer, nada, they are stainless steel inside, shiny.

I just removed the bottom seal/filter and inserted the sprayer into the filler pipe and through the drain hole and washed away at full pressure until water came out clean. Then I used my air compressor with an air spray fitting to dry them. My tanks don't leak. The only "sealer" I used was a little Hylomar on both sides of the neoprene seal, that's all.

If your tank is not leaking, leave it alone.