One thing I should point out is that within the carbs in the venturi & damper areas the temperatures get close to freezing. Don't protect your carbs excessively from heat or you will have to fit carb heaters like so many of the Austin Minis had to with SU's. (We used to call them teacosies) ~ Latent heat of evapouration, venturi effect & the whole story I've covered at length here in another thread. These carbs get damn cold within. With a cobbled up Fluke temp unit I've seen readings of 2 deg Celsius on my car now and I'll bet they get colder in some conditions. That's why damper oil viscosity is so important. SAE 20 synthetic. Buy from Burlen if necessary. If your engine ever stumbles when you accelerate you are close to freezing. The damper acts as a throttle pump over the main jet (by slowing piston rise) and gives enrichment at the right time. The joys of constant depression carburettors. They are great but require a little understanding.

 

Thorsen LOL we never knew Jack had a website. His phone however is not disconnected. We called today 540 743 4037 got his normal answering machine.

 

Another busy day in the garage. I did so much wiring I think I need a new pair of crimpers.
I started with the new battery hold down with the integrated circuit breaker holders. This gives me 4 circuit breakers in a convenient yet not-in-the-way location. I took this picture before I put the protective covers on the circuit breakers.


I've spent weeks agonizing over where to put the AC blower fan switch. I bought a switch panel from a Mk X but the seller couldn't find it, so I settled for the left corner slightly underneath the dash. It's not in your face but easy enough to get to when you need it.


After hooking up the rest of the wiring, I was ready to test AC blower.

While I would have preferred cool air blowing in my face there's going to be plenty of cold air blowing at the back of my head - I think I'm going to stay cool enough this summer.

The goal tomorrow is to get the front seats back in the car.

 

Is that supposed to be an oil soaked foam pancake air filter on your carb? You had better service them VERY regularly & re-oil. They offer shockingly poor air filtration compared with a good Mann + Hummel etc. pleated paper filter. Remember it only takes one heaped teaspoon of dust/dirt ingestion to ruin an engine. I would suggest fitting proper air filters. All oil soaked media filters are nothing but rock catchers.

 

For me, the original air con switches of the time look like what they are, awful add-ons. Where the switches are in visible locations, I'd prefer to re-purpose some old Jaguar toggles or rockers. They may not be original, but they are much more in the spirit of 1960s Jaguar. If air con had been factory fitted, I'm sure it's what Lyons and Heynes' would have done.

 

@Glyn M Ruck those are the "dry" foam filters - I think they're called long-flo or something like that.

So today was a bit of a milestone as this is the first time she's been on all 4 feet for the first time in months. I took advantage of today's nice weather to take her off the jackstands and push her into the sun so I could put the seats back in.


All the seats are out of my basement and in the car once again.


I started working on the factory style air cleaner.


The in-board holes aren't threaded and are significantly larger diameter (.47") than the outboard holes which are tapped 5/16-18.


I need something in the in-board holes as this bridge piece is a necessary part of the throttle linkage.


I thought I could use a riv-nut (which I am generally not a fan of) but the hole in my manifold is .4" and the biggest one I could find only works for holes .2" thick.
I can put an extra-thick threaded insert into the in-board holes and work with that but this can't be a unique problem. Does anyone know what was in that hole from the factory?

 

I just have alignment pegs in there that fit into the inboard holes on each carb.
Only the outer holes are threaded on mine.

 

Delighted you are getting rid of that rubbish. Dry is even worse than oiled.

 

Thorson p.7-4 of the SPC shows you need C15548 "Dowell Bolt" That would mount your bracket and secure your air intake. That is in agreement with Jeff's comments.

 

Thank you - I think I can use an allen head screw to approximate the functionality.

 

That will work of course if the Allen head fits the hole in the intake. Good luck.

 

Problem solved. The allen head bolts fit perfectly in the manifold and we're back on track.

 

I'm getting close to the end of the winter project and the last thing on my list is replacing the fuel pumps. During my 2,000+ mile road trip last October one of the SU pumps died and I replaced it with a universal replacement from an auto parts store. While it works fine it sounds like a mini-turbine in the right fender of the boot and it's very un-Jaguar like.

I'm thinking of replacing both pumps with a set of Hardi 9912 fuel pumps. Do we think those those are a better choice than the SU pumps?

 

I come from the technical side of the oil industry. ~ global job. Hardi pumps are vastly superior to SU's and provide identical mounting in every respect & make the right noise on top of it.

I have Hardi pumps on my car and would consider no other. They were used on most pre-EFI Porsche cars.

Our experience globally is that SU pumps are probably the most troublesome on the market. I got my Hardi's from Barratts and they are cheaper than SU's & not polarity sensitive. Yes one can modify SU's to be polarity insensitive.

Bill Mac from Australia will agree with me here. He has a whole mountain of failed SU's.

Jaguar wheel wrenches have been used to try & clout more SU pumps back into action than change wheels.

Huco pumps are another alternative as are Facet. Huco's are troublesome with alcohol laced fuels. They say they have fixed their elastomer problem but haven't. They still give trouble with Sasol Fuel alcohol at 10%, Max 12% permitted. Some Facet models have aviation approval but require more re-jigging of pipework. Bill being a pilot would be in a better position than me to discuss pressures. We want approx 3 psi max 4 psi or you sink the floats in the carbs.

The Petroleum super major oilcos are well positioned to assess this.

 

Thank you @Glyn M Ruck . It's funny how important the "makes the right noise" piece of it is.

 

Refresh page for edits.

 

It is part of the Jaguar character!

 

I need to fabricate a new holder for the cruise control cable but I'm almost done with this part of the job.



I sat down at lunch and made a list of what I still have left to do. The list keeps getting shorter.
- Replace fuel pumps
- Fabricate a plastic panel to cover the AC unit in the trunk
- Replace a grease zerk on one of the rear axle u-joints

 

Thorsen here is a pic of a factory rear cover for the 420. Not sure if it would fit with your unit. It is spare to our needs.

 

Thank you for the picture @Coventry Foundation . The factory cover has the two protrusions for the blower motor and my unit is shaped a good bit differently. It shouldn't be too hard to work something up.