Something I always wondered is if after chrome coating could they put a black finish on top?
cheers
Bob

 

It didn't sound like they could do that. But I'll verify.

 

There is such a thing as Black Chrome.

 

Oooohhh !
Shiny !!

 

I had to replace the batteries in my wife's Jeep tonight so I only had time to remove the radiator from the Jaguar. I think this is the first car I've ever worked on where the radiator comes out the bottom.

 

The manifolds are impressive and good value, though you may need sunglasses for work on that side of the engine. It might be a good time for checking the port alignment for any rough edges before sending them for treatment.

I think the radiator coming out from below is a typical Jaguar design legacy compromise: an odd feature that arises when a design is partially revised, in this case the transition from Mk2 to 420. Still, it eliminates the possibility of scratching paintwork.

 

Well I did not know that. S Type like the Mk2 has to come out the top but there appears to be a lot more room around the outside of the engine in the 420.

 

Yes ~ original drawings show that Lyons had contemplated a hinged forward bonnet like the MkX. But then decided that too expensive to change. So he grafted a miniturised Mk X, 4 headlight nose onto an S Type scuttle forward. The nose is slightly more upright than a MkX with crocodile bonnet & more space & squared off front wheel arches. Centre bar in grill (later adopted for 420G) & originally with no horn grills which IMHO finish things off nicely. The MkX variety were round but the oblong ones look better ~ again IMHO. Considered too plain without them.


No hubcap or wipers yet. What looks like a badly parked wiper is the front quarterlight catch.







MkX ~ the monster. Man it is a big car. I don't like the bonnet/hood lines between the headlights.

 

The MK X looked the part in Disney's latest "Cruella" movie for the ultra-snooty Baroness (Emma Thomson).
In fact the whole movie was full of mouthwatering examples of British cars from that era !

One doesn't really see the bonnet lines here Glyn.
Notice the English taxicab and what looks like a SS RR. (could be a Mercedes too because it does not appear to have the dual headlamps. I have yet to see a SS with single headlamps)

 

Ageed ~ but that's at dusk or night & it's very colour dependent. They shout at you on a white car.

And thanks to Pressed Steel the gap differences could be alarming requiring plenty of fettling

 

I must watch the movie!!! I enjoy Emma Thomson in a bitchy or snooty role..

Dinner time.

 

Definitely RR, a bit of curviness on the flank(?) so most likely Mulliner Park Ward Shadow or Corniche.

 

I got a little more work done tonight. My neighbor came over and helped me take off the bonnet. I'll need some room for what's coming next.


I also pulled the alternator and lined it up next to a CS-130 alternator I had on the shelf. I believe the original alternator puts out about 60 amps and the CS-130 does 105 amps.


The first CS-130 had one "big" mounting ear but no matter how many spacers I tried, the pulley was too far back.


I had another CS-130 on the shelf and it had two thinner ears. If I put the front ear behind the mounting bracket the pulley was too far back, and if I put the ear in front of the mounting bracket it was too far forward.


I think I'm going to pull the alternator bracket off the block - does anyone know if the two mounting bolts hold in anything important like a timing chain guide?

 

The two bolts are just in external holes and only support the bracket. The Bracket plate is wide enough that you could drill some extra holes and move the bracket forwards or backwards whilst using the original mounting holes in the block. Problem is I can't remember if this would disturb the mounting point of the engine mount. You would have to try and see.

 

I can tell the engine mount bracket has it's own set of holes so I should be good. Many thanks.

 

Started this morning with removing the heater box. It looks like someone has been here recently as there is plenty of new foam on the mounting surfaces and flapper valve.




The exhaust manifolds came off easily enough.


I cleaned the mounting faces and pulled the studs off. They're ready to be boxed up and shipped off.


I also pulled the seats, center console, and lower dash so I could research what my options are for adding an air conditioner.


I've accepted the fact that I am going to have to use a smaller unit than I'd like up front for the simple reason that there's just not much room in the dash.
I was hoping I could use something like the Old Air 300 Under Dash unit but those are almost a foot deep

I was hoping to put the unit under the center gauge panel and on top of the lower parcel shelf, but a unit 12" deep means I would have about 1/2 of it sticking over the edge of the parcel shelf - and that would look dumb.


I also considered putting it under the parcel shelf and reconfiguring the transmission tunnel, but I don't want to do that. So I'm back to the thinking board.

 

Pack those manifolds tight, use too much material and a big box and keep them well separated.
Assume that some doofus is going to drop the box on a concrete floor and that it may even come flying out of the back of the truck.

I have a remnant roll of newsprint that I use, it's going to last me for years.
Carpeting places have tons of old rubber underlay that works well too, but can get a bit heavy.

 

Why don't you want to use the space between the parcel shelf and gearbox tunnel for the a/c?

 

If I did that I'd have to find a new home for the radio and the speakers I put on the center console. Which I guess isn't the end of the world, it's just something I was trying to avoid.
I guess I need to accept the fact that I'm going to have to break a few eggs to make the omlette.

 

Prof Gregory's '66 unit that I believe has a punchout or plug that you can remove to duct cold air elsewhere.


Alternative. Very neat.


The other alternative would be to throw out the heater box completely (or use bits of it e.g. fan) & install a fan & heatpump in it's place. Then it could heat or cool the car independently of engine pipework and cooling system hot water dependent on cycle selected. One could then distribute hot or cold air as in above pic & via the centre console to the rear. It would operate just like a split unit in your home. Some relatively minor fabrication would be required if you can't buy such a unit off of the shelf. Compressor & condenser unit installed as per normal in the engine compartment & ahead of the radiator. No need to move the battery.