My entire interior was supplied by John Skinner. Some of my pictures are used on their website. You can take a look at my car in my Signature. Just scored 100> points in concours & best in country. I'm sure there are better in the US where you have a whole support industry. Pictures in thread are work in progress. Not complete. Many corrections after that & no correct decals in place yet. But I have all.

Talk to Jon for Jonathan. John was his Dad, that the company is named after. You can also contact Carbon Motors to ask which supplier they used at link provided above.

https://john-skinner.co.uk/
https://john-skinner.co.uk/models/jaguar/s-type-420/

I will look for a few others. BAS is always an alternative although their roof lining material is incorrect. Correct = lambswool Union Cloth which is still available. I have clips of all of their materials.

https://www.basjaguartrim.com/

 

This will also be useful generally. Other than 4.2 engine the 420 from scuttle back other than safety padding is S Type. Early 420's had full door wood & not just a garnish rail & padded roll as later units.

STICKY: Parts suppliers and services - THE INTERNATIONAL JAGUAR 'S'-TYPE REGISTER FORUM

 

Yes, the package shelf becomes a duct, sort of. All sides of the duct needs to be plastic, otherwise the package shelf could get wet from condensate.
The baffles for both of the RH registers and the front wall will have to be played with to get even distribution out of the registers. The bottom drawing is a plan view.
The register extension after the tapered wall (side view) is remover from the evaporator assy. and replaced with a vertical wall to create the new evaporator assy. outlet.

Looks like we are having a crude drawing contest. LOL

I hope this helps.

 

Thanks @Bob_S - I understand the concept now. I agree on the need for a plastic "tunnel". This is a much better idea than the commercial solutions that put the evaporator case on the engine side of the firewall and much more elegant than the under-the-dash solution.
I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

You could take a belt & bracers approach and fit another condensate drain at both ends of the false cavity you have created at the back of the parcel shelf. Cars are seldom absolutely level. The main evapourator will have it's own condensate drain that you will have to accommodate. At least you have gravity on your side & won't require a condensate pump.

ABS is actually very easy to work with when you know how (I don't personally). My trim man got rid of Jaguar's cardboard type rubbish that distorts in SA's harsh sunlight. He makes it look easy. Back door armrests & pockets, ashtrays etc.

e.g.

 

In a Mk2 and I assume in a 420, there's already a heater channel running across the car. It's attached to the passenger side of the bulkhead around the level of the shelf in the 420. If the new installation is a combined heater and air con, the centre section of the channel could be cut out making more room for the new a/c box. The outlets could then go into the remnants of the channel. Or you could cut out the whole channel, gain some space and replace it with plastic. Of course, all this might require a lot more metal work than you feel like doing on what looks a pristine car ...

 

Peter,
The 420 has the channel too. I considered sectioning it out but was worried that it was structural and contributed some rigidity to the chassis. I'm saving that for a cut of last resort.

 

Peter. An S Type & 420 do not have that heater channel running across the bulkhead. I know exactly what you mean. I inherited a Mk2 with my 2 donor S Types. Bodies now sold. See parts manual. I have a Mk2 channel lying around in Johannesburg somewhere.


Mk2 Heater Duct.







S Type & 420.





They don't show the structural cavity fed from the heater box to the controllable vents. All they show is the plastic piece that attaches to the member to feed the rear by pipe and console lever that opens & closes the rear feed.

 

Don't touch it Thomas. It is structural doubling as an air channel. The airflow was considerably improved in the S Type & 420 over the Mk2 ~ still not great. The heater channel Peter is talking about does not exist on our cars. You might be able to get away with some round holes as one would lighten a chassis. Then condensate drains would be crucial.

 

Testing things out a little more. Here's my $97 evaporator unit with where I was thinking it would go. Not ideal.


Here it is up against the bottom of the dash. The transmission is in 1st gear. Not a workable solution.


Not the best picture but here is the unit in the passenger footwell. It does not take up too much foot room and will be perfectly positioned to blow air into the lower parcel shelf. I'm getting warmer.


All things considered, I might be better off with a unit like this. I've had one in my MGB for several years and they work well. The controls are ready to be remotely mounted and it might be easier to interface this with the parcel shelf air channel.

I feel better about this than I have in weeks. I am definitely moving in the right direction now. Thanks to all for the great ideas.

 

How the Hell are my gramophone spring photos a related thread !

 

Good you spotted this, Glyn. My suggestion was prompted by reading Homer Simpson's repair work in that area in Retro Rides. I'll try to have a look at the channel in my car later today, though it's obscured by temporary framing and my time is occupied by a teleconf.

 

Don'r worry Peter. The NDV's/quarterlights in all our cars provide the best ventilation turned so that they catch & channel wind/air into the car.

 

Who knows Jeff.

 

Don't know if this will help or not but it is the inside of the bulk head fully stripped out on my S Type when it was at the blasters. It shows what is behind the dash and the parcel shelf with everything removed. This shows the void behind the dash and fuse box that the original heater hoses run through but it also shows the structural cross member below that, which should not be removed without some form of replacement being made.
The big silver roll is my wiring loom protected in tape so it would not get damaged during the blasting.

 

Spot on Rob ~ big help to illustrate (another pic saved by me). As I say earlier it is structural doubling as an air channel for ambient or heated air. Were one to blow refrigerated air through it you would have to provide condensate drains at both ends or lowest point on top of the main unit's condensate drain. A rust area waiting to happen without doing so. We did our best to spray Glasurit self healing Porsche primer into it followed by Tectyl. And I have no intention of air conditioning the car. The outside of it is sprayed BRG like the rest of the interior & exterior of the car.

 

Starting to pick up a little speed now. The UPS man brought me a couple boxes today. First, the exhaust manifolds from Jet Hot came back today. I didn't realize the manifolds were in such crappy shape under the porcelain and I probably should have bought new manifolds. At the end of the day they look better than they did before and will do a good job reducing heat under the hood. But I'm still going to keep an eye out for a set in better shape


Close up showing the pitting on the front manifold. It's the worst of the two.


Here they are propped against the engine.


I also got my AC compressor and mounts from the UPS man today. I'm thinking I can do a universal AC/alternator mount - I'll start measuring and designing that this weekend.

 

They should have media blasted those manifolds until smooth & then done them in Black Chrome. Keep paging down. There are many adverts in the article. Our motorcycle guys black chrome their Titanium exhausts (difficult process). Then at the exhaust tip it turns that Titanium blue as Titanium does.

https://www.aboutmechanics.com/what-...me-plating.htm

 

Some people remove the porcelain and then smooth them with a flap sanding wheel before they're coated/finished.

 

That's a good idea ~ that would work!