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Well, I rebuilt ONE fuel pump (it ticks slowly, so I think I still dont have the points correct) and then flushed out the fuel lines. gas coming from the tank is clean.
Cranked it over a few times and SHES ALIVE!!! ran, and then idled for about 60 seconds and I shut her down. (the water pump and hoses are not connected).
Did a little more fiddling and the tried to start again- no love from the starter. Frist just clicks, then nothing.
Should I:
A: rebuild the one I have
B: buy a new one with the same slow cranking
C: buy a new starter with the reduction gear that spins faster
I am leaning C, but am willing to listen to reason if its a bad idea.
The clicking is more than likely from the starting solenoid on the upper most middle on the fire wall.
The solenoid is working but not making contact inside to turn over the starter.
Test by putting twelve volts directly to the starter, take note if the car is positive ground.
If the clicking stops from the solenoid, then you may have a bad connection from the starter button to the solenoid, you can apply 12 volts to the solenoid to by-pass the push button inside the car.
But don't go out and buy a new starter yet until you have eliminated other causes.
A slow ticking fuel pump may indicate a stiff diaphragm or it's normal, they tick slow when they're pumping gas, they only tick fast with no fuel.
420 is NOT positive ground, it is Negative ground.
dsnyder586 I would go for a good gear reduction starter. But first I would make sure I had good connections to the battery, a good ground to the block and make sure the batteries fully charges before buying anything.
The starter: I think that Cass/Rob has the uprated starter and is very pleased with it. It appears there's more than one manufacturer of them and some are better quality than others. As always, beware of cheaper substitutes. On the other hand, my experience is that the OE starter, though it looks antique, can support a high level of abuse, starting the car in gear without a clutch and happily driving off. Of course, that's not something you do every day.
I highly recommend the high torque starter motor. Lighter, smaller and a lot more powerful. Just make sure when you order one you ask for an Automatic starter motor as there is a difference between the Auto and Manual starters as I found out when they sent me the wrong one. I had nothing to compare it with so fitted it to the car. Could not figure out why the gear would not throw out far enough to engage with the starter ring. Top original. Middle Auto high torque starter. Bottom Manual high torque starter motor.
With your problem at the moment with the starter ticking I would look at the battery. This is a typical symptom of a weak battery or a bad earth.
The engine has sat for a number of years without running and you now have achieved 60 seconds of running. Whoopee and Hooray. It goes!!!
However, in my experience everything will be 'tight", and I suggest a much longer running period to free up the motor before condemning the original starter as slow.
I am no fan of Lucas however their starters are robust and probably the best of all of their products.
Ageed Bill. We refurbished my original Lucas Starter Motor properly & it does a sterling job. No cranking problems. Car starts on the button. It's certainly not slow. Whereas I've seen a number of these, so called, high torque motors break their casings. Some are junk but look pretty externally but....
The only minor criticism I have with the Lucas unit is that it weighs a tonne ~ no problem there. It's robust to say the least.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-10-2022 at 05:28 AM.
Size and weight should make fitting a lot easier with the engine in place. For me, those aspects and reliability are bigger factors than cranking speed.
Indeed ~ it's the reliability factor that worries me with these small light units. The Lucas motor is a tough old bugger & certainly lasts well. 90K miles on mine & we just did the standard service of bearings/bushes, comm clean up etc. Mine has the nose body & spindle bush. No installation problem in situ.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-10-2022 at 05:53 AM.
Ok, next small issue- the accelerator pedal is rusted in place. What is the best way to free/ unscrew it? What holds it in place? Looks like there was water pooled in the low spots (seems typical)
Are relays a good idea for some of the high draw items? It seems like the wiring could get pretty hot in some situations (lights, fans, starter button) anyone put relays in series for this stuff? I have a bag full of them from parting xk8s.
Still flying high on the fact that it started and idles yesterday. Once I put in the electronic ignition and rebuild the SUs I can only imagine how well it will run! FYI- I am not using the starter button, I am using a remote starter so I can be under the hood.
Early ~ start by spraying with penetrating oil at the base hinge. Reapply a few days later. Be patient. There are felt washers at the floor pivot to hold oil. When finally finished grease it and use the felt washers to keep it off your carpets.
Or later: To stop complaints of the roller unit for not being sufficiently progressive.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-10-2022 at 07:32 PM.
Re starter motors. Every one that has broken it's light casing in our club has been made in China. Cheap, cheerful & unreliable. The Chinese can make things as well as anybody else. People don't moan about their iPhones. Asiatrak division of Caterpillar makes fine units.
They will make anything you want & very well. But you must pay. Want it cheap & they will make it cheap. All they will do is make it look good.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-10-2022 at 07:36 PM.
Glyn didn't mention anything about your relay comment, so I will.
You don't need them, make sure your grounds are clean, as well as the rest of the wiring connections, if none of these things are done, no relay will fix it.
Have a look at the copper plating on the dashes electrical switch and gauge board, start with cleaning that, sometimes re-soldering the bullet connectors may be necessary.
The spade terminal may need attention as well.
Relays are used in modern cars because of the confined spaces and the thinner gauge wire that is used.
The old Jags are not like that at all.
If a relay isn't necessary, I wouldn't add one: it's something else to break. Thinking of electrical failures on all my cars, I'd put Bosch and Carrello relays at the top of the list of PIA components.
10-08-2022 | 09:39 AM
