1967 mk2 horns issue
#1
1967 mk2 horns issue
horn doesn't work and don't know if it ever did. at least during my ownership. so today...
i soon discovered that the horn relay was clicking when the horn button on the steering wheel was pressed or if the horn ring was pushed. so assumed that the horns were most likely getting current. they are easily removable so i removed each one and tested them both when connected directly to a spare 12v battery. they both make a very, very faint low rumble when current is applied. but it's barely audible.
of course, i thought i could disassemble them and maybe get them working, but was disappointed that they appear to be rivetted together. although i did notice a small thread square headed bung that might be there to possible lubricate the inside. is that possible? anyway...
i can buy plastic ones for a very reasonable price at Moss Motors. but does anyone have any other suggestions? i don't show the car. i just drive it (sometimes long distances and for days at a time) for pleasure.
..it's funny, i rarely use a horn...ever. but now when driving the jag, and the horn doesn't work, i find myself wanting to honk at someone, for some perceived slight or possibly poor driving, about four or five times every time i get in! haha
i soon discovered that the horn relay was clicking when the horn button on the steering wheel was pressed or if the horn ring was pushed. so assumed that the horns were most likely getting current. they are easily removable so i removed each one and tested them both when connected directly to a spare 12v battery. they both make a very, very faint low rumble when current is applied. but it's barely audible.
of course, i thought i could disassemble them and maybe get them working, but was disappointed that they appear to be rivetted together. although i did notice a small thread square headed bung that might be there to possible lubricate the inside. is that possible? anyway...
i can buy plastic ones for a very reasonable price at Moss Motors. but does anyone have any other suggestions? i don't show the car. i just drive it (sometimes long distances and for days at a time) for pleasure.
..it's funny, i rarely use a horn...ever. but now when driving the jag, and the horn doesn't work, i find myself wanting to honk at someone, for some perceived slight or possibly poor driving, about four or five times every time i get in! haha
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 08-06-2024 at 10:11 PM.
#2
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You should have Lucas WT618U horns.
In the middle of the dome there is a very small slot headed screw. Removal of that screw allows the dome to be removed.
There is a set of points associated with what amounts to a buzzer which drives the horn diaphragm.
These points typically need to be cleaned to allow full power to go to the coil of the buzzer. If the points are dirty, you will get the low rumble you mentioned.
I suggest using 400 grade emery paper to clean the points initially and then 800 to 1000 to polish them.
Also check the trumpet section to ensure there are no mudballs or foreign objects like wasp nests etc.
The Mk2 workshop manual does have a "Supplementary Information on electrical and instruments" which gives details on adjusting these horns. (It's right at the back of the manual.)
In the middle of the dome there is a very small slot headed screw. Removal of that screw allows the dome to be removed.
There is a set of points associated with what amounts to a buzzer which drives the horn diaphragm.
These points typically need to be cleaned to allow full power to go to the coil of the buzzer. If the points are dirty, you will get the low rumble you mentioned.
I suggest using 400 grade emery paper to clean the points initially and then 800 to 1000 to polish them.
Also check the trumpet section to ensure there are no mudballs or foreign objects like wasp nests etc.
The Mk2 workshop manual does have a "Supplementary Information on electrical and instruments" which gives details on adjusting these horns. (It's right at the back of the manual.)
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Glyn M Ruck (08-07-2024)
#3
You should have Lucas WT618U horns.
In the middle of the dome there is a very small slot headed screw. Removal of that screw allows the dome to be removed.
There is a set of points associated with what amounts to a buzzer which drives the horn diaphragm.
These points typically need to be cleaned to allow full power to go to the coil of the buzzer. If the points are dirty, you will get the low rumble you mentioned.
I suggest using 400 grade emery paper to clean the points initially and then 800 to 1000 to polish them.
Also check the trumpet section to ensure there are no mudballs or foreign objects like wasp nests etc.
The Mk2 workshop manual does have a "Supplementary Information on electrical and instruments" which gives details on adjusting these horns. (It's right at the back of the manual.)
In the middle of the dome there is a very small slot headed screw. Removal of that screw allows the dome to be removed.
There is a set of points associated with what amounts to a buzzer which drives the horn diaphragm.
These points typically need to be cleaned to allow full power to go to the coil of the buzzer. If the points are dirty, you will get the low rumble you mentioned.
I suggest using 400 grade emery paper to clean the points initially and then 800 to 1000 to polish them.
Also check the trumpet section to ensure there are no mudballs or foreign objects like wasp nests etc.
The Mk2 workshop manual does have a "Supplementary Information on electrical and instruments" which gives details on adjusting these horns. (It's right at the back of the manual.)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276279844469
thanks for the information...very helpful.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 08-06-2024 at 10:18 PM.
#5
#6
found and exact match on Moss. all metal and identical.
https://mossmotors.com/545-020-horn-...fault_products
i'll be trying to disassemble them ASAP now that it's been shown that i succumbed, prematurely, to despair upon seeing all the rivets. *headsmack*.
https://mossmotors.com/545-020-horn-...fault_products
i'll be trying to disassemble them ASAP now that it's been shown that i succumbed, prematurely, to despair upon seeing all the rivets. *headsmack*.
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#8
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#9
thanks...it DOES have these horns, one manufactured in '66 and one in '67 according to their markings, so could be original.
i'll be getting at those slotheaded bungs with a bigger screwdriver tomorrow. nice to know that if it all goes sideways a modern reproduction is available from Moss for less than $200 a pair. ...so i'll be working with a net, so to speak. and Flying Wallendas not withstanding, it's NICE to work with a net. ha
i'll be getting at those slotheaded bungs with a bigger screwdriver tomorrow. nice to know that if it all goes sideways a modern reproduction is available from Moss for less than $200 a pair. ...so i'll be working with a net, so to speak. and Flying Wallendas not withstanding, it's NICE to work with a net. ha
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 08-07-2024 at 05:08 AM.
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Glyn M Ruck (08-07-2024)
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#11
#12
i estimated fully delivered price plus tax at somewhere south of $200 for the pair of the modern reproductions. these are probably the ones i would purchase if forced to replace them, not so much for their originality but because i know they will fit and i don't like plastic parts especially where these are positioned; right in front and as near to the ground as anything on the car gets. they can take a lot of abuse from road debris.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 08-07-2024 at 10:32 AM.
#13
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Peter3442 (08-08-2024)
#16
after drilling out the rivets in one of the horns and getting inside, it's clear that the horn had not worked in many years. and yes it has a set of points in it. the screw (and i did get it out) was essentially a dead end as far as disassembly was concerned. it's, IMO, entirely unfixable. everything is corroded. and very, very fine sand everywhere. i'll post a few pics if i can figure out how...
i'm not concerned with the condition of the other one as i assume its condition is about the same. so appears i'll be buying a couple of the OEM type horns from Moss. (cha...ching!)
thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
i'm not concerned with the condition of the other one as i assume its condition is about the same. so appears i'll be buying a couple of the OEM type horns from Moss. (cha...ching!)
thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 08-07-2024 at 07:20 PM.
#17
... and the Dutch respond: "Hoeveel!!!!" or How much!!!! The most expensive should be gold plated. The £20 I mentioned was for Hella horns listed by a large factor as OE for Audi/VW.
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Glyn M Ruck (08-08-2024)
#18
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#19
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#20
Our international and research offices in The Hague worked entirely in English, there were probably more native English speakers than other languages combined, and the city is very international. As a result, I never became proficient in Dutch. Plus, as a typical engineer ...
We had a South African. The Dutch described his Afrikaans as Dutch with everything not absolutely essential stripped out. He reckoned there were one or two upgrades.
We had a South African. The Dutch described his Afrikaans as Dutch with everything not absolutely essential stripped out. He reckoned there were one or two upgrades.
Last edited by Peter3442; 08-08-2024 at 06:17 AM.
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Glyn M Ruck (08-08-2024)