3.8 Engine rebuild
#141
It's a standard British brake line fitting size, I think 3/8" x 24 tpi. It's a double bubble flare that seals the line to the body of the slave cylinder, quite different from typical US brake lines. The threads are different too, it's a finer thread that standard US brake fittings.
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Glyn M Ruck (05-10-2024)
#144
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David84XJ6 (05-11-2024)
#145
#146
Clutch master cylinder bore diameter
The car I built currently has Wilwood pedals and master cylinders. I'll be using a stock clutch slave cylinder. The clutch master cylinder should be the same bore diameter as the stock cylinder. What is the bore diameter of a stock clutch master cylinder?
#147
so do these cars have one of those cooling systems with a bypass pipe, hose or combination (and will be referred to as the "bypass pipe"), such that the thermostat stops the flow, completely, to the radiator when the coolant is cold, and shunts it, via the bypass pipe, directly to the waterpump, to be pumped back through the head again, and then, as the coolant begins to warm, due to its unique construction, can slowly close that bypass pipe as it simultaneously opens the one to the radiator?
if so, i've read that just any old thermostat, even if it fits, will not do, or at least will leave the bypass open at all times. which was not the original intent of the bypass.
if so, i've read that just any old thermostat, even if it fits, will not do, or at least will leave the bypass open at all times. which was not the original intent of the bypass.
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Glyn M Ruck (05-12-2024)
#149
so do these cars have one of those cooling systems with a bypass pipe, hose or combination (and will be referred to as the "bypass pipe"), such that the thermostat stops the flow, completely, to the radiator when the coolant is cold, and shunts it, via the bypass pipe, directly to the waterpump, to be pumped back through the head again, and then, as the coolant begins to warm, due to its unique construction, can slowly close that bypass pipe as it simultaneously opens the one to the radiator?
if so, i've read that just any old thermostat, even if it fits, will not do, or at least will leave the bypass open at all times. which was not the original intent of the bypass.
if so, i've read that just any old thermostat, even if it fits, will not do, or at least will leave the bypass open at all times. which was not the original intent of the bypass.
What would happen if you block the bypass and use a standard thermostat, would it tend to overheat? It wont be driven in cold weather ever.
#150
#151
There is a bypass pipe. According to what I've read the engine can over heat with a standard thermostat. I've seen where bypass blocks with no thermostat are used in racing.
What would happen if you block the bypass and use a standard thermostat, would it tend to overheat? It wont be driven in cold weather ever.
What would happen if you block the bypass and use a standard thermostat, would it tend to overheat? It wont be driven in cold weather ever.
The suction may collapse the water pump intake hose.
My Opinion: For an occasional use vehicle, If you are in warm climate and you use 5-30 full synthetic oil, you would be ok to just leave thermostat out and block the by-pass. It will take longer to reach operating temperature.
The Best plan would be to put the sleeved thermostat in as Glyn recommends.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25605623396...MakeTrack=true
Rgds
David
Last edited by David84XJ6; 05-11-2024 at 10:44 PM.
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Glyn M Ruck (05-12-2024)
#152
You would not increase HP with the 2" system, and may loose a small amount do to lower exhaust velocity. Look for aftermarket mufflers that are straight through to keep the exhaust velocity up.
My XKE 4.2 had a 1 7/8" OEM exhaust system. I did use 2" exhaust headers, as the calculated optimum of 1 3/4" were not available. I was about 40 HP lower than a 2" system called for.
There are more muffler options at 2" OD. You can use them with a pair of 1 3/4 to 2" reducers, if you can't get the right muffler size for 1 3/4".
Rgds
David
My XKE 4.2 had a 1 7/8" OEM exhaust system. I did use 2" exhaust headers, as the calculated optimum of 1 3/4" were not available. I was about 40 HP lower than a 2" system called for.
There are more muffler options at 2" OD. You can use them with a pair of 1 3/4 to 2" reducers, if you can't get the right muffler size for 1 3/4".
Rgds
David
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Glyn M Ruck (05-12-2024)
#153
Since the discussion has started, these are my thoughts for the exhaust system. Keep the system standard from the engine to around the gearbox. This is where you want a good, negative reflection. At this point, you either increase the diameter of the pipe or have a crossover between the two. This should gain a few HP and some torque. In my opinion, the effect of many fancy manifolds and sports systems is mainly cosmetic (and cost. Perhaps, that's costmetic). Of course, make sure the joints/ports all match well and the castings don't have large imperfections (they are usually good).
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Glyn M Ruck (05-12-2024)
#154
#155
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Glyn M Ruck (05-12-2024)
#156
#157
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Glyn M Ruck (05-12-2024)
#159
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Glyn M Ruck (05-16-2024)