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Thanks for all the support . I figured out the primary cause of the backfiring- one of my clamps on the cold start piping under the carbs was loose and it was sucking cold air and backfiring out of the carb. Tightening other coolant clamps solved the little dribbles of coolant too. They all needed to be really tight.
timing is in the 10-14 degrees BTDC range. Seems to be pretty happy there. It is still running a bit rich and will work on that in the next week or so. Carbs should be a whole lot more responsive to adjustment now that they are not sucking air through the cold start. Speaking of which, it is working ver well. Car starts quickly, runs at about 900-1000 rpm and you can tell when it shuts off the idle drops down to 750-800.
Still a ways to go to get all the warning, instrument lights and gauges sorted out so I can finish installing the dash and center console.
Well a little over three years later, I think I am “done enough” to close this thread. When I started, I had never driven a MK 2 or seen one running. I didn’t even know what year it was which is why this thread is titled 67 Mark 2 restoration. Here are a couple of before pictures: Interior was non existent Sitting in the dirt Car had not been run for over 20 years
You've got lot to be proud of! Someday the rest of us will get there. I know we are all thankful for your many posts, advice and inspiration over the past few years. Now you can enjoy the fruits of your labor.
What I learned along the way was that the car was in fact a 1960 model. It had a 3.8ltr engine with a 4 speed and electronic overdrive, power steering, and power brakes. My favorite part of driving the car wi cruising down the highway with the overdrive engaged. It is peppy, solid, has a lovely cushy ride, and is quiet. I still have to drive the car mor to get comfortable with it and actually trust it, but it is coming along. It is really a head turner, as it is lovely and pretty rare here in south Texas. Thanks to SNG Barratt and everyone on this forum for their help with this project as I truly could not have done it without all your expertise.
i have enjoyed this project immensely, and plan to start on the second MK 2 next Spring. It is. 1967 with a 3.4, and I plan on doing a lot of modifications to it- but that is a subject for another thread.
chuck
AC is all hooked up, just haven’t connected the power wire to the compressor until I take it to an AC shop to have it charged. Your step by step layout of installing it was invaluable as the instructions were less than helpful. The controls are tucked under the glove box until I install the cover under there at which point they will be under the dash to the left of a passengers knee. I did not center the vents because it looked to difficult to move the scuttle controls. However I did get a little pocket that is perfectly sized for my iPhone. I flocked it like the inside of the glove box, so it makes a nice little pocket.
I cleaned and sealed the inside of the doors, then they got epoxy, primer and paint. I then added the sound proofing. A good thick brushable seam sealer is helpful for allowing the water to exit the drains, and not get down in the door skin seam.
Recently, I discovered two promising products for treating rust: rust converter (https://www.cortenplus.fr/collection...rust-converter) and dinitrol . However, I'm facing a dilemma in choosing between these two products to treat rust on my metal objects.
I would greatly appreciate your experiences and advice to make the best choice. If you have used either of these products, could you share your impressions? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each product? What level of effectiveness did you observe?
Any information or suggestions would be greatly appreciated to help me make an informed decision.