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I am going to use this in the cavities shortly, it converts the rust and leaves an epoxy coating, I will then use a cavity wax as a second level of protection, I have spoken to a couple of people who have recommended this product. Does anyone else have experience of using this ?
I use a similar product from a US company called Eastwood. It is also called a rust converter. That and the cavity wax should do the trick. I plan on using those products in the sills as part of an overall rust treatment body sealing once I get the car welded and stripped.
The product from Eastwood is similar to Dinitrol RC800, the difference is that the RC900 is epoxy based and after some research I think that this will work better in areas that you cannot see.
I have found that the non epoxy based convertor can give issues with adhesion in any areas that have oil or do not have any rust, both of these you have no control over where you can't see, I spoke to the Director of Rustbuster in the UK and he recommended Dinitrol RC900 over his own non epoxy based rust convertor for the inside of the sills and box sections.
And you can frequently save a bit of money if you go back to the sourcing company's website. Not always - I ended up working with Moss Motors thru Ebay to get my car locks. Turned out to be quicker and easier (and I think cheaper) than going through their website.
Good luck Chuck. If I had some on-hand I'd send it to you
Still plugging away at the body work. I am working on it regularly now, so starting to make some progress. I have stripped and epoxied the left side floor boards. Only one rusty area in the left front which I was able to patch. Working on the left front lower fender now. i have a patch panel for the fender, but the inner pieces which also need replacing are a bear to make. I probably spent 10 hours making one inner fender panel due to the complex curves. Almost home on that but discovered the left rocker panel has a bunch of pin holes and needs replacing. I was able to get a replacement rocker / sill panel from SNG Barratt, but it is a large piece, and requires a lot of cutting, drilling out spot welds, and chiseling. I haven't quite decided how much metal to replace. I think I can just cut along the edge of the sill (the seam where the door rubbers fit), and weld on a new piece there down under to the frame. Either way it is a lot of cutting and welding so lots more practice! Yay! Here are a few in progress photos.
Nothing like a wasp nest on the roof of the car.
Welding on the exterior body panel is the easy part. Fabricating the inner panels is a challenge. The one on the left is four parts welded together to get the correct shape to match the fender panel
Inner sill is fairly solid. New part is sitting under the car waiting to be fit.
Found a similar wasp tenancy under my headlining during replacement. Must be a favourite spot. Fortunately the inhabitants had vacated the premises!
re the sills/rockers: The front section where it meets the bottom of the front fenders is an interesting structure. Hoping you don't find any rust there. Mine were both "gone" due to water entering/thrown up by the front wheels. I think it took me a week to fabricate & fit new sections which involved removal of the outside skin of the fenders at their bases.
Finished most of the body welding, and attaching all the new parts! Doing the rocker panel wasn't that difficult, and very rewarding to get it all cleaned out inside and the surface rust removed. Not so simple that I will pull the other side off, but not bad.
Did some minor patches in the body and floor pans. They are coming out very good. The final part was the cradle under the front, below the grill.
Now I have to finish stripping the paint, and start applying finishes to the body. Here are some pictures of the work.
Cleaned out and painted rocker panel. Painted with POR-15 Epoxy, then body cavity rust preventer. Should last another 50 years or so.
Rocker panel welded on before grinding down the welds.
Left front fender patch welded on. The hard part was fabricating the panels under this that keep everything dry from road spray.
Old panel and replacement panel. Not much left.
Panel welded in. Hard to see, the is from underneath the front of the car.
Little rusty area above the left rear wheel- cut out and all cleaned out in the body cavity.
After but welding in a patch panel, and leading the seams. Ready for high build primer.
Two bits of advice , I had the same rust patch at the rear of the door where it meets the arch, this is caused from water leaking in the rear window, there is another area higher up just above where the curve of the rear fender meets the roof as it comes down, there is an internal metal web in that area and the water hits that and then runs down to the area you have repaired. Make sure you strip the paint off and check that area too.
Second bit of advice, do NOT paint anything with high build primer yet, you could use a weld through primer for short term protection, but you need epoxy on it before any other type of primer. High build primers do not seal the metalwork, they are porous, and you will end up stripping it off to deal with small rust spots underneath if you are not careful.
Clean with a metal prep, this will react with the rust in the pours of the metal and the surface will go greyish but it will protect it for quite some time, if you do get any surface rust, you can simply scour it off with a scotch pad and re treat with metal prep, but if your workshop is pretty dry you should not get any problems.
When I had everything back to bare metal and cleaned with metal prep (this stinks mind you) I painted the body with a zinc rich (93% solids) epoxy, this provides Cathodic protection, I then coated it again with 3 coats of epoxy primer.
Thanks for the advice on the additional rust areas. I am stripping it this week, so will find out. I know the 67 I have has a rust hole in the area you are talking about, so I will check it, and can get at a lot of that panel from the inside of the rear window.
I hope to get the car stripped this week and a coat of epoxy on it. Primer will follow if I get to it. I do have the metal prep and will wipe it down with that first two. Thanks for the advice
I am stripping the interior- floor specifically using a heat gun and scraper to get the tar paper off, a wire brush for the rusty areas, and then paint stripper. Once cleaned, I am using a metal prep, followed by POR-15 epoxy. Eventually, it will get more epoxy, primer, and body paint. Fortunately, there were only two small rust perforations that I have patched.
You have a good plan there, it's no fun I have to say, you were lucky to have only 2 holes to patch.
I shot blasted mine, great result but a hell of a messy job !
Re Epoxy, you probably know, but it has a window of about 3 days to re-coat , after that you need to scuff it with P300 paper to give a key for further coats, so try and get more coats on the inside straight away as there are too many awkward areas to get at with paper which will make it a royal pain.
I am stripping the interior- floor specifically using a heat gun and scraper to get the tar paper off, a wire brush for the rusty areas, and then paint stripper. Once cleaned, I am using a metal prep, followed by POR-15 epoxy. Eventually, it will get more epoxy, primer, and body paint. Fortunately, there were only two small rust perforations that I have patched.
Great work! You and Jon have both done some incredible body repairs! I concur with what you both have said. I love POR-15 but while on my other classic cars it seems to look perfect for many miles, my Jag seems to need extra coats every other year or so? I think that since they do not have that low of an air dam as my other cars there seems to be way more rock wear? I have had to re-spray POR15 a couple of times on the front frame areas. Plus I have put nearly 65K miles on the Jag in a little over two years.
You may consider getting the air dam powder coated if you haven't before. Powder coating does a great job of standing up to rock chips.
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Here are a couple of pictures of the latest progress. I have finished body work for now, and starting on removing the engine/transmission, front and rear ends.
Front end stripped of paint. Shows off the incredible metal work done by a guy here in San Antonio. The front end was caved in and he beat/stretched it out and it is very smooth.
Nice job, super fast too. Just FYI, I put a red oxide coloured epoxy on, the idea being that when I am flatting back the high build, that if I see the red oxide, I have to stop sanding so that I don't break through that layer of protection.
05-11-2017, 01:30 PM
