Bonnet hood release cable renewal
#1
#2
On my 340 there is an access panel that I was able to remove that was held in place with two bolts just below the bumper.
I was just barely able to get my arms in there and left some bruising doing so.
A skinny teenager with long arms would probably be best.
My cable didn't break, but was oxidized and rusted where I could not pull it.
Once the panel is removed, you also may be able to use a long flat bladed screw driver to undue the catch to the point where it would release.
I was just barely able to get my arms in there and left some bruising doing so.
A skinny teenager with long arms would probably be best.
My cable didn't break, but was oxidized and rusted where I could not pull it.
Once the panel is removed, you also may be able to use a long flat bladed screw driver to undue the catch to the point where it would release.
The following users liked this post:
Glyn M Ruck (06-18-2021)
#3
If the cable has broken while the bonnet is down you do have a problem. To release the locked down bonnet catch you will have to access the system from below via the access panel mentioned by JeffR1. I have used a very long handled screw driver to move the latch to release the latch. Once released the two bolts holding the latch mechanism can be undone and the whole thing can be lifted from the car.
The other alternative is to undo the nuts holding the grille onto the body and that will give you complete access to the bonnet latch mechanism.
Best of luck and keep some band-aids handy as both methods will result in some skin being lifted unless you are incredibly skinny or have a skinny teenager as mentioned by JeffR1.
Bill Mac
MK1
MK2
S3 XJ6
X300
Previous MK1(X4), MK2(x4) MK5, MK7(x2), MK8, MK10, XJ S2. XJ40
The other alternative is to undo the nuts holding the grille onto the body and that will give you complete access to the bonnet latch mechanism.
Best of luck and keep some band-aids handy as both methods will result in some skin being lifted unless you are incredibly skinny or have a skinny teenager as mentioned by JeffR1.
Bill Mac
MK1
MK2
S3 XJ6
X300
Previous MK1(X4), MK2(x4) MK5, MK7(x2), MK8, MK10, XJ S2. XJ40
#4
On my 340 there is an access panel that I was able to remove that was held in place with two bolts just below the bumper.
I was just barely able to get my arms in there and left some bruising doing so.
A skinny teenager with long arms would probably be best.
My cable didn't break, but was oxidized and rusted where I could not pull it.
Once the panel is removed, you also may be able to use a long flat bladed screw driver to undue the catch to the point where it would release.
I was just barely able to get my arms in there and left some bruising doing so.
A skinny teenager with long arms would probably be best.
My cable didn't break, but was oxidized and rusted where I could not pull it.
Once the panel is removed, you also may be able to use a long flat bladed screw driver to undue the catch to the point where it would release.
#6
The following users liked this post:
herbertcustard (06-18-2021)
#7
Deburr any sharp edges to the opening of the access panel, get some silk or something very thin and lay that across the edges to protect your skin.
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#8
Hi, you really need to drain radiator, disconnect radiator hoses, remove the radiator shroud and last, remove the radiator to be able to access and remove the grille properly.
the access panel mentioned is not big enough for an adult arm to reach the top center bolt of the grille frame. Although I have done it once, it is not worth the trouble, the anger, and the soreness that results.
I ended up having to remove the radiator anyway.
if removing the 6 nuts and washers from the studs is bad through that access panel, trying to get them on the studs afterwards will be worse, specifically the top center one which has a teethed piece.
the access panel mentioned is not big enough for an adult arm to reach the top center bolt of the grille frame. Although I have done it once, it is not worth the trouble, the anger, and the soreness that results.
I ended up having to remove the radiator anyway.
if removing the 6 nuts and washers from the studs is bad through that access panel, trying to get them on the studs afterwards will be worse, specifically the top center one which has a teethed piece.
#9
Thanks for the additional information Bill Jack.
Thanks to Jose for the suggestion to remove the radiator first. That does sound easier and I could do with flushing it as the water is very brown. Only problem is that the oil cooler for the auto transmission is incorporated in the bottom of the radiator and I will have to look at avoiding any possible complications in that area which probably hasn’t been disturbed in 56 years. Need to get started and adapt to the situation as I go along.
Many thanks for all suggestions.
Thanks to Jose for the suggestion to remove the radiator first. That does sound easier and I could do with flushing it as the water is very brown. Only problem is that the oil cooler for the auto transmission is incorporated in the bottom of the radiator and I will have to look at avoiding any possible complications in that area which probably hasn’t been disturbed in 56 years. Need to get started and adapt to the situation as I go along.
Many thanks for all suggestions.
#10
The following users liked this post:
herbertcustard (06-20-2021)
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