Hi All,
Just sorting out new arrival RHD 340 Mk 2 twin SU's, came to me in boxes....just cleaned carbs and re-assembled, can't see what goes in the back of the aux starting carb (large fitting to ??). Also, is there a sketch to fab your own cam holders? Car came with spare rebuilt engine and OD 4 spd if anyone is looking for these.
Thanks,
Seann
Markdale, Ontario

 

One other question (more to come)....both engines with the car have ribbed cam covers, when did they switch from smooth?

 

Parts for AUD 241 for Jaguar 1946 onwards 340 Series 3442 cc - SU Carburetters - SU Carburetters
Sounds like you're missing the solenoid and possibly the bits that go with it.
The link has a great exploded diagram, so you can see what's missing.
Out the bottom of the starting carb. is a fitting that eventually gets divided into six individual pipes that the fuel flows to the intake manifold to enrich the mixture.
The solenoid is controlled by a thermostatic switch (#47 in the diagram). Most won't rely on the switch and by-pass it by simply adding a toggle switch underneath the dash board.
The switch can either shut the solenoid off too soon (the car keeps dying because it hasn't warmed up yet) or it takes too long to shut of (the car runs around burning gulps of fuel and producing black smoke). The switch is finicky and problematic.

 

OK thanks, found the 6 pipes to manifold in a bag (no fitting for aux carb yet)....probably won't use it anyway, rebuilding engine with new rings, extra fuel washing oil off cylinders not good. Fair weather driver anyway, will deal with waiting to warm up,
Thanks

 

I don't know how much experience you have with SU carburetors, but they always need to be chocked, even in the hottest weather.
The amount of fuel that goes into the engine is only used of course until it warms up, then the solenoid shuts that flow off.

If you're worried about engine wear, don't let it sit there and idle (even at higher speeds) to warm up.
More then 90% of engine wear occurs on cold start up and the quicker you get the operating temperature up, the least amount of wear will occur on the bores.
It's one of the biggest myths to have your engine warm up first by not driving it.
People who sit there and let it run for 10 or 20 minutes are just speeding the engine to it's grave.
Drive it right away (gently) until it comes up to operating temperature, and then drive as normal.
This applies even more so to a fresh engine, that will be prone to overheating because it hasn't been broken in yet.

I was talking to a salesman, years ago now, who had an older Chrysler New Yorker with well over a million miles on it. All he did was do his regular oil changes, just routine maintenance and it ran like a switch watch.
I would have imagined it may have had some valve work, but the bottom end had virtually no wear on it.
It was driven all over the country, from one coast to the other all it's life, he didn't warm it up, he just started it, let the oil pressure come up and drove it.