I am converting my 250v8 to a 5 speed manual box. I would like to now if anyone here has done this and has pictures of the adapter plate/bellhousing? What is the best box to use? Should the flywheel/starter match the same brand as box or use my sp250 flywheel and source a starter-i heard it may not fit with saloon engine oil pan. I have found and installed a mark 2 clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder. Any info helpful. More details the better!
Thanks
Daniel

 

Hi Dansxj6,I read with interest your thoughts on converting your V8 to manual transmission? I have also been pondering doing a conversion on mine,I see you mention 5 speed gearbox-would that be from a series1/2 XJ6? I ask because I have a series 2 XJ6 manual gearbox/clutch/flywheel and wonder ifit could be made to fit? As for your question regarding which startermotor to use,I guess it would depend on wether you can fit a V8 manual bellhousing onto the 5speed gearbox-and also finding a spare bellhousing in the firstplace!

 

I can say this much, you will need the flywheel that is meant for a standard gear box.
The flywheels that are designed for an automatic transmission are much lighter and thinner _ there will be no place to bolt on the clutch pressure plate either.

May I suggest finding a Daimler SP250, it will have the correct flywheel, and clutch and the starter should bolt right on.
The distance from the end of the crank shaft to the out put shaft of the transmission will also be correct.
There should be a place in the Daimler crank shaft to insert a bushing or bearing to support the out-put shaft of the manual transmission.
The standard Daimler SP250 bell housing will also have a place to mount the clutch slave cylinder.

I have no ides what kind of transmission came with the SP250, but if you have the bell housing you may be able to adapt any trans, you want up to it.
You may also have to have a custom drive shaft made...

I would think the interior will be the biggest challenge, as far as I know all the Jaguar/Daimler's had bench seats _ this will be a problem to overcome because the centre consul will have to be changed or rather added to accommodate the shift stick.
If it's far enough forward, the stick may clear the bench seat, but it will look very strange.
Trying to fit a consul out of a Jaguar may work, but the transmission tunnel will probably be a different size, so that will have to be changed too.

Lots to logistical problems to think about.
Hopefully someone who has done this will answer.

EDIT:
They do exist though, I thought I would browse around and a few came up _ notice the bench seat has been split a little to accommodate the shift stick.

Daimler 250 V8 Saloon Auctions - Lot 14 - Shannons

http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-daimler-v8-250/

And then I found this right here on our own forum...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...ethics-135990/

 

Hi JeffR1 and thanks for your thoughts/reply on the conversion problem,yes I agree a V8 manual gearbox,bellhousing,flywheel etc would be the best way to go without doubt also your gear ratios wouldnt be to far out (except for possible back axle differences) and the books/ info says the gearbox in the saloon was the same as the Jaguar 240 from the same era (not sure on the sp250)but id imagine the bellhousing would be different given the difference in the engines.My main interest was due to the fact I have a Xj6 manual gearbox/clutch / flywheel but I like you think the work involved would be rather more than the average DIYer would want to take on.Also noting your points on the interior etc they do have a different tunnel or tunnel top atleast for the manual gearbox but I have seen one or two of those for sale on Ebay from time to time and somehow this seems to locate the gearstick just forward of the bench type seats--as you say lots to think about and im still trying to get my car out of the garage so one thing at a time i guess? All the best Blackjack.

 

Ok, so after some research, the sp250 transmission is similar (but not the same) as a tr3. It does not have a seperate bell housing. The sp flywheel is smaller then the correct v8 250 flywheel although the correct one is super rare and when you find them they command big money. The original transmission is also very rare and different to the mark 2 jaguar manual transmission. So, a custom adapter plate to whatever 5 or 6 speed transmission is the way forward. Only critical dimension i see is from the front of bellhousing to shifter so it lands between dash and seat. More measuring to come

 

Blackjack,
If you want to sell your manual xj6 parts, i am a buyer!

 

Hi DansXJ6,OK mate il bare that in mind,have to say its all stuff that has sat around for a good time,it was out of a 1976(P) reg series2 XJ6,the car was rusty-to rusty realy to repair but you know how it is-you just keep on throwing money at the dam thing! anyway long and the short of it was I scrapped the car and kept the rebuilt engine with reground crank,new main/big-end bearings,thrust washers,new rings and gaskets,'0'rings for the oil pump oil and filter,left the clutch as was,and the gearbox,theyv been stood for some years now under cover by me garage,you know how itis-for that special project that will probably never come? hence my interest in your original question on your Daimler.

 

I should have asked while I was going on there,would anyone know on the Daimler V8 250 or for what im about to ask id imagine any of the MK2 range would be similar,the 'Auto-Lok' inertia reel seatbelts mount onto a kind of Z bracket with two short nuts/bolts and the bracket/reel then bolts onto the B post,(I purchased my car with little or no interior fitted and no seatbelts,brackets or fittings).Iv managed to get a reasonable pair of reels and brackets but are the two bolts that fix the bracket to B post ment to be chromed shallow headed bolts like the shoulder loop bolt or are they ordinary bolts? also any spacers of any kind between bracket and post or just bolts with washers onto the B post trim? secondly,in the loose-leaf manual for the car it shows the spacer for the shoulder loop bolt with a taper either end-thats to say a taper to fit in the wooden trim and a taper to fit in the shoulder loop so it remains free to move when the bolt is tight-is that right or is it like the usual seatbelt spacer with one taper for the loop and the otherside flat? not very easy to explain Im afraid but if anyone has removed or changed these parts any help would be greatfully received.