Interior Door Panels - Where Can I Get Panel Attachments?
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here's a pic of the rear passenger door.
All the panels are off all doors, just like the one in the picture.
I've started to re-make the door panels from fiberboard.
The old ones were rotten away, so I'm cannibalizing pieces from all the doors to make a single pattern for both the front and rear doors, respectively.
But I need the pieces that attach the interior panels to the door.
Where can I get a bundle of these?
I've gone to some auto shops and asked.
I get the RCA Dog in front of the phonograph look.
Went to a local hardware store. One guy recognized the piece I brought in and said it came from a Fiat ( Same type of fitting?).
So advice on the panel project requested!
All the panels are off all doors, just like the one in the picture.
I've started to re-make the door panels from fiberboard.
The old ones were rotten away, so I'm cannibalizing pieces from all the doors to make a single pattern for both the front and rear doors, respectively.
But I need the pieces that attach the interior panels to the door.
Where can I get a bundle of these?
I've gone to some auto shops and asked.
I get the RCA Dog in front of the phonograph look.
Went to a local hardware store. One guy recognized the piece I brought in and said it came from a Fiat ( Same type of fitting?).
So advice on the panel project requested!
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You mean these things ?
SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist
If this is what you're after you can go to an upholstery shop that does car interiors with a picture, they may have them a little cheaper.
SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist
If this is what you're after you can go to an upholstery shop that does car interiors with a picture, they may have them a little cheaper.
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1964Daimler (08-23-2015)
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Whilst you have the panels off, check the inside of the doors for rust.
If the panels were rotten, good chance rust has attacked the base of the door and also the window frame post fixings, esp as Jaguar in their brilliance fitted felt pads between the post and the door skin which becomes a sponge when wet and promotes the cancer.
Water also gets trapped between the bitumen sound deadening panels stuck to the inside of the skins.
If the panels were rotten, good chance rust has attacked the base of the door and also the window frame post fixings, esp as Jaguar in their brilliance fitted felt pads between the post and the door skin which becomes a sponge when wet and promotes the cancer.
Water also gets trapped between the bitumen sound deadening panels stuck to the inside of the skins.
The following users liked this post:
1964Daimler (08-23-2015)
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'll check. If there is rust, what to do?
Any rust inhibitor sprays? WD40?
Also: should the interior mechanisms within the door be sprayed with penetrating oil?
If so, what types?
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You mean these things ?
SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist
If this is what you're after you can go to an upholstery shop that does car interiors with a picture, they may have them a little cheaper.
SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist
If this is what you're after you can go to an upholstery shop that does car interiors with a picture, they may have them a little cheaper.
That be it!
That's why I come here Jaguar Forums!
The knowledge I need!
I'm astounded at the quick responses and the total number of views per posting!
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When I bought my Daimler the drain holes in the bottom of the doors had been blocked and engine oil poured in! Unfortunately, rain water easily passes the window seals and collects in the doors. You can imagine the mess and resulting corrosion inside the doors. I used a liberal coating of HAMMERITE KURUST. This chemically attacks the rust and forms a stable layer helping to stay any further damage. Now thick grease is a good antirust treatment - I like copper bearing grease. It is messy! Ensure the drain holes remain clear!
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here are pictures of the door panels that came with the car.
Both front and rear were in this condition.
I basically put together two of the panels to make one panel as a pattern.
Will cut the fiberboard and fit. It doesn't look too good, though...
But it's what I have to work with.![Embarrassment](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif)
And ou can see the velvet that was mentioned in earlier posts...
Both front and rear were in this condition.
I basically put together two of the panels to make one panel as a pattern.
Will cut the fiberboard and fit. It doesn't look too good, though...
But it's what I have to work with.
![Embarrassment](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif)
And ou can see the velvet that was mentioned in earlier posts...
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#8
![Talking](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif)
Those remnants will not be of much use as patterns for new panels.
I tried to replicate my LH front door panel & after spending hours stuffing around, gave up & left it to the experts.
Of particular note, the front door panels extend about 1/2" beyond the leading edge of the door, so that they meet the Furflex on the door frame resulting in an effect seal against drafts. I did not realise this until after offering up my replication. If I wasn't such a novice, I would have checked the fit on the driver's side first!
The other issue is the holes in the panel for the spring clips which press into the door itself. These are off-set to suit the clips, and have to be precise so that they all line up correctly thus allowing the panel to press into position correctly. The water affected wood panel (like yours) is not in the best state to use as a stencil.
Also, the fibreboard has to be the exact same thickness for the spring clips to fit properly. They are design to rotate a little to assist with insertion in the door holes. I used 4mm plywood (too thick) & got into allsorts of difficulty.
Remember also the vynil covering has "welded" lines in its pattern, so to maintain originality, these have to be replicated. Not sure how any DIYer would be able to do that.
For all the above reasons, I recommend outsourcing this job.
As Clint Eastwood would say, a man has gotta know his limitations!
I tried to replicate my LH front door panel & after spending hours stuffing around, gave up & left it to the experts.
Of particular note, the front door panels extend about 1/2" beyond the leading edge of the door, so that they meet the Furflex on the door frame resulting in an effect seal against drafts. I did not realise this until after offering up my replication. If I wasn't such a novice, I would have checked the fit on the driver's side first!
The other issue is the holes in the panel for the spring clips which press into the door itself. These are off-set to suit the clips, and have to be precise so that they all line up correctly thus allowing the panel to press into position correctly. The water affected wood panel (like yours) is not in the best state to use as a stencil.
Also, the fibreboard has to be the exact same thickness for the spring clips to fit properly. They are design to rotate a little to assist with insertion in the door holes. I used 4mm plywood (too thick) & got into allsorts of difficulty.
Remember also the vynil covering has "welded" lines in its pattern, so to maintain originality, these have to be replicated. Not sure how any DIYer would be able to do that.
For all the above reasons, I recommend outsourcing this job.
As Clint Eastwood would say, a man has gotta know his limitations!
Last edited by redtriangle; 08-25-2015 at 04:53 AM. Reason: Sprelling mistrakes
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