Interior Facia - Dry Sand or Chemical Peel Or Some Other Method?
#1
Interior Facia - Dry Sand or Chemical Peel Or Some Other Method?
Starting on the interioir, and the dashboard are needs work. It has some damae from water and age and a combination thereby. The varnish has flakes and other areas are just dry and needing a refresher of a wood salve.
On the other interior parts, I brought them to a local woodmill expert. He suggested Danish Oil. That stuff did an AMAZING job with exceptional results!
The wood came back clean, clear, and dark! Looks deep and stunning!
But before I do that on the facia, how should it be prepped?
Local Jaguar mechanic said to take 1500 grit sand paper and gently scrap away the flakes. Other people are says to use Citrus Orange Removers and chemically peel away the flakes and water damage.
Which method should be used here? Or some other suggested method?
TIA
On the other interior parts, I brought them to a local woodmill expert. He suggested Danish Oil. That stuff did an AMAZING job with exceptional results!
The wood came back clean, clear, and dark! Looks deep and stunning!
But before I do that on the facia, how should it be prepped?
Local Jaguar mechanic said to take 1500 grit sand paper and gently scrap away the flakes. Other people are says to use Citrus Orange Removers and chemically peel away the flakes and water damage.
Which method should be used here? Or some other suggested method?
TIA
#2
It depends what you are after, the original finish was varnish _ many coats _ wet sanding with finer grits in between and then polished with progresively finer compounds to get the typical mirror finish. The end compound was probably "rottenstone"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotten_stone
To do it right takes some skill, patience, time and specialty supplies _ especially when it comes to the veneer repair.
Which brings me to the missing cross banding _ what are you going to do with that ?
It's beyond sanding ?
My advice to you at this point _ the burl walnut is very fragile, scraping the old varnish off may take some veneer with it.
Sanding it off with 1500 grit sandpaper will juts clog the paper _ if you use any thing course enough to remove the old varnish with out clogging, you will easily cut into the very thin veneer and quite possibly sand through it.
Using too course of paper is the "handyman's" mistake _ I see this happen all the time.
Do not use a citrus based stripper, they are water based and require the use of water to wash the job down afterwords.
The glue that holds the veneer down is water soluble so using a product with water in it is not a good idea.
Plus that type of stripper is very weak, it takes along time and many applications to get the job done.
This is what I use, and I use methyl hydrate to wash off the old softened varnish after wards with semi-coarse steel wool. (do not use water)
Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover | Walmart.ca
In all honesty you're veneer is in very bad shape, I saw a close up of the burl in one of your other screen shots and there were tiny bits of the burl missing.
If you're going to spend money on any part of the car, I would spend it on a professional job.
Doing anything at this point will make it look better, but with the missing cross banding gone, the burl isn't far behind.
EDIT _ this is pretty much beyond resurrection _ there are epoxy products that can be coloured to fill this sort of thing, but the whole area looks very weak and fragile.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotten_stone
To do it right takes some skill, patience, time and specialty supplies _ especially when it comes to the veneer repair.
Which brings me to the missing cross banding _ what are you going to do with that ?
It's beyond sanding ?
My advice to you at this point _ the burl walnut is very fragile, scraping the old varnish off may take some veneer with it.
Sanding it off with 1500 grit sandpaper will juts clog the paper _ if you use any thing course enough to remove the old varnish with out clogging, you will easily cut into the very thin veneer and quite possibly sand through it.
Using too course of paper is the "handyman's" mistake _ I see this happen all the time.
Do not use a citrus based stripper, they are water based and require the use of water to wash the job down afterwords.
The glue that holds the veneer down is water soluble so using a product with water in it is not a good idea.
Plus that type of stripper is very weak, it takes along time and many applications to get the job done.
This is what I use, and I use methyl hydrate to wash off the old softened varnish after wards with semi-coarse steel wool. (do not use water)
Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint & Varnish Remover | Walmart.ca
In all honesty you're veneer is in very bad shape, I saw a close up of the burl in one of your other screen shots and there were tiny bits of the burl missing.
If you're going to spend money on any part of the car, I would spend it on a professional job.
Doing anything at this point will make it look better, but with the missing cross banding gone, the burl isn't far behind.
EDIT _ this is pretty much beyond resurrection _ there are epoxy products that can be coloured to fill this sort of thing, but the whole area looks very weak and fragile.
Last edited by JeffR1; 08-28-2015 at 10:10 AM.
#3
I agree I do not think your wood will just easily clean up as it needs more repair work as well. The wood is what really makes these cars stand out and it is a dying art that very few have the skill to do it right. Jaguar wood is not a DIY project as it will look half *** in my opinion. I know this is not what you would like to hear as the repair work is not cheap. I highly recommend Madera Concepts Madera Concepts - Jaguars
Unfortunately there is a lot of skill to restore the wood as it is all book matched and to do that there is a lot of old school hand skill from hand coloring, etc. that is not a simple sand and varnish job. Do not fall off your chair as I would guess your wood would cost $2500 to $5K to do it right but it will be worth it.
Unfortunately there is a lot of skill to restore the wood as it is all book matched and to do that there is a lot of old school hand skill from hand coloring, etc. that is not a simple sand and varnish job. Do not fall off your chair as I would guess your wood would cost $2500 to $5K to do it right but it will be worth it.
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