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What about custom pistons ?
I had some made for my Bentley when I did the engine, they were better and a lot less money, I payed 600 us dollars at the time for 6 pistons.
They had a very short skirt and forged out of round, so when they heat up, they become round, better alloy too then the originals.
Hi Jeff, I can get new piston, they are just expensive. they would however almost certainly be cheaper than having them made.
Hi Jeff, I can get new piston, they are just expensive. they would however almost certainly be cheaper than having them made.
Yes, you're right, a set from XK's is around 500 US dollars, not that this matters but Introcar wants £145 for one Bentley piston, so in that case, custom is less expensive.
I must be honest I did really want to do it as a 2.4 as i've never owned or driven one of the smaller engined ones and my economy/budget aim fits in with that. I will have to see what comes along at the right price, one problem seems to be that 2.4 pistons are not as easy to get hold of, David Manners do 3.4 and 3.8 one for around £200 per set but don't do them for the 2.4 and people like SNG Barratt are a lot more expensive.
The bore size on the 2.4 and 3.4 seems to be the same and I did wonder about using 3.4 pistons but there must be a reason why they were different originally, does anyone know what the difference is, is it crown to gudeon pin distance?
Whilst the bore size is the same, the block is a whole lot shorter, being nearly 2" shorter. This means shorter conrods and they will be at much more of an angle to the vertical at half stroke, so I suppose this affects things to a degree that demands different pistons. BTW, I had a 2.4 and whilst you're not going to "dump rubber" with it, it is a lovely smooth engine that can be revved. Jaguar never released 2.4 litre cars for magazine testers because the 2.4s wouldn't get to 100 mph. It took the 240 with SU carbs and a different cylinder head to do that, even so it could only make about 105. However, for cruising around the 2.4 is adequate.
Hi Homer, Love this project of your's, Only reason i come on here now is to check out your Skillz! As for the engine mate i would ditch it! A 2.4 after driving your 3.8 would be a bit of a disappointment, I just bought another S3 4.2 injection big valve with all ancilliarys including the auto box (Which i don't need) for £900 shipped, Got it from Keith Parrington at XJ Restorations, I'm putting it in my S1 XJ6 as well as a manual box and a recently acquired 3.54 Powerlock diff,
Hi Homer, Love this project of your's, Only reason i come on here now is to check out your Skillz! As for the engine mate i would ditch it! A 2.4 after driving your 3.8 would be a bit of a disappointment, I just bought another S3 4.2 injection big valve with all ancilliarys including the auto box (Which i don't need) for £900 shipped, Got it from Keith Parrington at XJ Restorations, I'm putting it in my S1 XJ6 as well as a manual box and a recently acquired 3.54 Powerlock diff,
Hi, thanks for the kind words, with regard to the 2.4, I've always found the smaller engined versions of cars nicer to drive, the 850 mini, the 948 Sprite etc, as engines seem to get bigger they seem to get harsher and I've always wanted to see what the 2.4 is like. It will all depend on what comes up at the right price.
My days of driving like I stole it are well behind me and I don't really use the power of the 3.8.
Hi, thanks for the kind words, with regard to the 2.4, I've always found the smaller engined versions of cars nicer to drive, the 850 mini, the 948 Sprite etc, as engines seem to get bigger they seem to get harsher and I've always wanted to see what the 2.4 is like. It will all depend on what comes up at the right price.
My days of driving like I stole it are well behind me and I don't really use the power of the 3.8.
Fair enough mate! The short block XK motor's are turbine smooth and love to rev, Though they seriously lack in torque so a manual gearbox conversion is a better idea over an auto, If you stick with a 2.4 at least get a straight port head and SU's to give it a chance! Solexs' strangle it a bit, Still expect 3.4/3.8 fuel consumption though!
I have, today received this month's copy of Jaguar Enthusiasts Magazine. In it is a 2.4 litre engine for sale at £150. Quote " For rebuild or spares" Phone 01724 720751. It may help! Alec G.
I have, today received this month's copy of Jaguar Enthusiasts Magazine. In it is a 2.4 litre engine for sale at £150. Quote " For rebuild or spares" Phone 01724 720751. It may help! Alec G.
Thanks I will give them a ring, if it turns it might worth a punt!
Fair enough mate! The short block XK motor's are turbine smooth and love to rev, Though they seriously lack in torque so a manual gearbox conversion is a better idea over an auto, If you stick with a 2.4 at least get a straight port head and SU's to give it a chance! Solexs' strangle it a bit, Still expect 3.4/3.8 fuel consumption though!
Yes I had heard that the 2.4's fuel consumption was on a par with the bigger cars, I just fancy the idea of one.
I would like to do a manual converstion but the cost of the bits will probably make this prohibitivly expensive and I don't mind the nice lazy (and in the case slow) auto.
Do you have any more information on this, and /or photos?
I'm afraid I don't think this is feasible because the chassis rails at the front are a very complicated shape wher the subframe mounts to.
The section under the floor thats straight is easy to replace but its a top hat section and as you can see from mine I have this folded up by a metal fabricator and cost very little.
Which bits of the chassis rails need to be replaced, do you have any pictures?
At the moment, it's the straight section and I don't see why box section with a plate welded across the top wouldn't work, to be honest. The front, complex part would be assessed when I have the engine out. The straight section has rotted out where the front jacking points meet them. The two options I'm considering are below
At the moment, it's the straight section and I don't see why box section with a plate welded across the top wouldn't work, to be honest. The front, complex part would be assessed when I have the engine out. The straight section has rotted out where the front jacking points meet them. The two options I'm considering are below
You could do this but if you need to change the bit that fits into the rear spring hanger it would be more difficult and it might look a bit odd underneath.
I had a pair of the top hat straight sections of the chassis rail made to my dimension by a company called GDI products on e-bay, they were around £50 delivered. It was fairly easy to modify these to flare the end by cutting the bottom off, notching the flanges and welding a new section in.