i've got a 1967 mk2 and the driver's side vent window is so loose that it won't stay in place when adjusted to direct air at the driver. i assume that it is designed to stay in place via friction. anyone know how to adjust it?

i would think that it should be a simple task, but i've been wrong on many occasions and before i break something i thought i would ask those who are more knowledgeable than me...and there are many, i'm sure!

thank you, in advance.

 

The quarter light front windows as we call them in the UK work on a spindle that has a spring which pushes up on a plate that has grooves set around the top. This in turn is pushed up on to a cylinder that is locked in place to the window spindle with a spring pin. As you open the window the grooves move from one setting to the next allowing the window to be held open at set points. If your window is not locking then there are a couple of things that might be wrong. The first is that the grooves have worn away. Highly unlikely. The second is that the top cylinder which is held in place with a spring pin might be rotating due to the spring pin being missing. Then lastly it might be that the lower spring is not under as much tension as it should be to push up the grooved plate to lock the window in its set position.
To adjust it is easy but fiddly as you have to take the door cards off with the window winder, door handle, lock handle and the arm rest. Access can then be gained via a small hole under the quarter light and the adjusting nut on the spindle under the quarter light can be adjusted to the right tension.
Attached is a photo of the mechanism showing the parts and the position of the spring pin holding the upper cylinder in place. If the spring pin is missing it is possible in the bottom of the door and you might find it with a bit of magnet fishing.

 

thank you so much, ...but not exactly what i was hoping to hear. (ha)

was thinking (dreaming?) along the lines of a hidden grub screw, easily accessible, that could be tightened with a hex wrench or something similar. oh well...a task for another day, i suppose.

BTW, neither the right nor left one work properly on my car. there is not even a semblance of a ratchet effect. they are rather tight though and stay in place as long as the car's below 30mph. when i get in there i'm beginning to suspect i'll find a few dysfunctional parts and a future that holds the prospect of removing the frame. i fear adjustment may not suffice. here's to hoping i'm wrong.

thanks again for taking an interest. your explanation was very clear and of great help!

 

Great quarter light response Rob and by '67 had the extra stop points. Who said a picture was not worth a thousand words. Some nutter.

Only comment. While stripping change the rubber seal at the same time or you will have to go through the whole process again in the future. Buy the best seals you can find. Strange that both sides are the same. Suspect someone has been in there before & botched up.

 

yes, my thoughts too WRT both of them being dysfunctional in the same manner. i'll get to the bottom of it one of these days. ...was hoping to have them fixed for the trip from california to ohio and back i'll be attempting come friday. at least they open and close and are, for the most part, waterproof.

 

Even with new rubbers they will be waterproof in rain generally. They wont take a high pressure blast from a hose. New rubbers do settle with time but will still not take a direct blast.

Regarding both not working I could understand the drivers side only but not both.

 

Re the possibility of the missing rachet system parts lurking in the bottom of the door
If you can't find the missing nuts used to adjust the spring tension, then I suggest you use a single Nyloc nut.
The thread size is National Fine 10-32 and should be common in the USA. Also used extensively in aviation
It is a lot easier than fiddling with two nuts to achieve a lock nut and achieves the same purpose.

 

Bill,
SIMMONDS SELF-LOCKING NUT Original Patent Filed April 17, 1941 ~ now commonly known as Nyloc nuts are such a good idea for this application.

Sorry, I had a father that was in the 2nd WW and he would always correct me when I used the term Nyloc ~ "You mean a Simmonds nut son"

Shame ~ he's now long gone.

 

Anorak warning!

I think Simmonds didn't actually invent the special nut, but he did appreciate its usefulness. A Swede invented the nut, which at that time actually had a fibre insert, and it was in use somewhere in the US where Simmonds first came across it. Seeing its potential, he obtained rights to it for the whole world except the US and Sweden. I think the nylon version arrived in the 1960s. I wrote I think, because I'm not sure of all the details. Simmonds factory was in the English West Midlands where I grew up.

There's a story that Simmonds worked for Supermarine in the days of the Schneider Trophy sea planes. Mitchell, determined to minimise frontal area, wanted a fuselage just adequate for the Rolls-Royce engine and a pilot. The requirement for the pilot was set by sitting Simmonds against a sheet of plywood and drawing a line around him. Years later, John Cooper did the same with Jack Brabham with chalk on the workshop floor in designing his F1 cars. I've no idea how much of this is true, but they're nice stories ... .

I wrote this with my tablet. It has recently updated itself and doesn't allow me to type quotation marks, but inserts its own where it likes. ... about as bad as a self driving Tesla!

 

Thanks for that Peter. Makes me feel a bit better about always being corrected. Why did the Swede not patent it? There is no doubt it is a fine idea. Maybe the Poms wanted the credit? Somewhat like the US & who recovered the first Enigma machine & code books.

You better explain what an **** retentive "Anorak warning!" means. Many here won't understand the comment.

 

Peter
I am not too sure about "Anorak warning" but I am guessing it is something to do with donning protective clothing to ward off "bull-----t"
I think the nylon insert Simmons or Nyloc nut was in use in the 1950s in the aircraft industry.
My ex-military Australian built CAC Winjeel has plenty of them particularly in the windscreen area which had never been touched since 1956.
We had to de-rivet a skin area to get at these nuts when replacing the windscreens.
The picture of tracing the outline of a person to determine a fuselage cross section certainly sticks in my mind and it was probably Supermarine.

 

Yeah! they have been around for a long time if Patented in 1941 by Simmonds & Peter suggests earlier activity with them by a Swede.

 

In the UK an "Anorak" is a person who has a vast correct knowledge of a subject and can talk to you for hours about it even though you have told them politely several times that you are not interested. People who come in to this category are "Train spotters" "Gamers" "Grownups who play D&D" and people who have watched every episode of "Star Trek", believe it is real and have taught themselves to speak "Klingon" just in case.

 

Bill, It's a weather resistant jacket, but in this context might serve more to keep the 'bull---t' in rather than out.

Oliver Simmonds was/is famous enough as an opportunist engineer to get a write up on wikipedia which more or less coincides with what I wrote. He had several companies, all with his name. making various products all dotted about the world. He sold the businesses on as his interests changed. One US Simmonds company took over the SU fuel injection system (I guess SU thought it was dead after WWII with the end of the piston engined fighter plane) and sold a large number of the devices to the US Army. In spite of that, it seems to be almost totally forgotten.