"If" I were to replace the original fan on my engine with a more modern nylon fan of some sort, based on actual experience, is there a preferred fan to use? Vendor?

Thanks very much.

Lin

 

Lin,
I used a nylon fan from JEGS.com (part # 555-52192). It needs some trimming to clear the radiator shroud and the fan belts (depending on your set up). It is easy to do with a pair of snipers. Start with one blade, do a template, then the other blades. You will probably need spacers (the front of the fan is flat) to achieve the right position. Spacers of any size and shapes can be ordered from AluminumSpacers.com (they will ship you 4 spacers for a very low price). The major issue is to center the fan. This is what I did:
- The water pump shaft protrudes a bit from the pump. The diameter is a tad over 1". I used a step-bit to achieve the right diameter and center the fan on the pump.
- Then I could mark the 4 holes to be drilled in the fan to attach it to the pump. At that stage, the fan should be centered when bolted to the water pump.
- Your will need four bolts that are bit longer than the originals. Using the four bolts as guides, I then glued the spacers on the fan with JB Weld resin.
Total cost was about $25.
I did this about 4 months ago. It seems to work a bit better than the 12 blades heavy metal fan, and it is totally reversible.
Unfortunately I did not take pictures. but it's a lot easier than it looks.
Best,
JP

 

Lin,

Here's a link to some pics I snapped of mine for you. This is the one mentioned on the archaic site. Note how chipped and cracked it is, hence the replacement 15" I purchased. This fan needs about an inch cut from the depth of the blades to clear the AC belt tensioner. The 16" also hit something in my engine. The plastic material absolutely did not like being sheared so I will use a saw this time for a better result.

Flex-a-lite 415 Fan Photos by GT6Steve | Photobucket

 

Thank you Steve and JP!
Lin

 

Hi, just out of interest why would you want to replace the original with a plastic fan. If its in the interests of better cooling, why not fit an electric fan. At the very least it will reduce the drag on the engine..(Viz wax fans)
Barry

 

I tried a vinyl fan in my 3.8 'S' type, (same as a MK-2) and I was not happy, had the same results as Barry and at high rpm's, the vinyl fan became "flat" and stopped responding, stopped doing its job. I still have the fan if you want it, but I am presently in Tennessee and the fan is in Florida. No way to get it out from where it is.

I would definitely try a pusher electric fan, however it requires upgrading the Generator to an Alternator, and then you have to find a solution to the "always ON" warning light indicator, so I've never decided to do it.

Keep the metal fan.

 

I agree it is worth upgrading to an electric fan. For me I already knew I was going to upgrade the alternator, etc. as I added a modern fuse panel to eliminate most of the factory set for reliability.

 

Primaz,
I do agree that it would be a far better proposition. I use a flex-a-lite nylon fan on my 3.8l, and so far it has proved to be lighter by far and seems to move more air than the original 12 blades. However, a puller fan would certainly eliminate the problems of excessive temperature in traffic, which the nylon fan improves but does not resolve with the aircon on. I do use a pusher fan, but it has proved relatively ineffective in city traffic.
The main issue I see in using a puller electric fan is that I have a bit more than 3" clearance between the water pump and the radiator and that would prevent me to put a 15 or 16" puller fan which needs about 4.5" to clear the water pump if it is centered. A smaller, off center fan (12"?) would work, but would it be enough? I think I see on your picture that this is the route you took. What's your experience? Is that enough to keep the right temperature stable in traffic by 90 deg. Florida summers?
FYI: I did follow you advice and contacted Wizard. I am awaiting their answer as I need a radiator that would include a transmission cooler as in all Mk2 using a BW35 transmission.
Thanks,
JP

 

Lin, another option for upgrading Mark 2 cooling is to use a Series 3 XJ6 water pump and fan with the fluid clutch - I did this on my last project and it worked well. This setup moves a lot of air and the clutch lets the fan idle when it's not needed. The only fitment issue was due to the tight clearance in the Mark 2 - the stock mount which connects the fan to the water pump needs to be replaced with a small adapter, which I had a local shop machine out of aluminum. I also had the radiator core upgraded and added an electric pusher fan since the car had AC - as I recall the electric fan rarely if ever came on. Sorry I don't have any pics as it was many years ago.

 

Thank you Doug and others who have responded.

Is the series 3 XJ6 water pumps a direct bolt on other than the small adapter to which you referred?

I was enquiring about the use of another fan because I am simply trying to accomplish all of the reasonable upgrades for cooling now before I assemble to car. I am already using a pusher fan - see below.

Just to remind everyone, I am in the midst of restoration so I have no current overheating issue. However, I am air conditioning the car using a Retro Air kit. As you know after-factory air conditioning in the MK2 is nothing but compromises in one area or another. I wanted the air blowing in my face not on the necks of rear seat passengers hence the RetroAir kit rather than the boot evaporator.

I am just trying to anticipate heat issues before I have them. I am a little more concerned about it than I might otherwise be since I am adding air conditioning.

So far I have done the following:
Total engine rebuild with complete internal cleaning.
Wizard aluminum radiator
Pusher electric fan in front of condenser
Battery to the Boot
Alternator
M&C Wilkinson electric power assist rack and pinion

As a few have suggested, I am thinking about opening up the the triangular spaces at the bottom rear of the engine bay and possibly even using some small fans to suck out engine bay heat when the car is sitting still with no air flow.

I do not want to louver the bonnet.

Thanks to Everyone for contributing ideas!

Lin

 

I have a pusher and the puller and thus far no issues with the system. We are still shaking it down and I will let you know if there any issues but so far it seems plenty to keep the big V8 and the AC in check




Lin,


I agree as when I bought this car my hood was louvered but I wanted a stock look so I sold the hood and bought a stock hood. I want it to look relatively stock other than the wheels and so far I think the upgrades there is no need for something that drastic

 

Isn't it funny..., I want to louver my hood but there's no one in Vegas doing it anymore

 

Here in the UK we do not have the highs of the USA . I run a pusher with a dynamo (25amps max). When moving it hardly works, comes into it own in standing traffic.
Barry

 

Currently having overheating issues, I think this is mainly to loosing water from the radiator cap releasing water and overflowing. The mark II Jaguar cap has a release pressure of 4 psi, however the e-type has a release pressure of 7 psi.
Does anyone know the reason, and can I fit a 7 psi cap to my Jaguar Mark II, will it help with the cooling?

 

You can certainly fit a 7lb cap, whether it helps with the cooling will depend on whether your cooling system is up to scratch.

If you are losing water because of the overheating rather than overheating because you are losing water then you need to find why it is overheating.

How much water do you lose ? (where is the water level in the radiator after it is overheating)

How long does it take to overheat ? and under what driving/weather conditions ?

 

The car originally overheated on the motorway, the thermostat was not opening. The thermostat was removed, and the engine overheated again. The system has been flushed and a new thermostat fitted.
When checking the engine at idle, water was coming out of the overflow (may have been initial expansion of water), have now fitted a new 7 psi cap and all seems ok. The temperature gauge was showing about 90 degrees.
Unfortunately can not drive at the moment, trouble with my hip, will update when back on the road.

 

Over the winter I had the radiator re-cored, the original 1960's was still fitted. Last week I took the car out on the hottest day of the year so far, 29 degrees Celsius. Temperature remained in the middle of the gauge. No overheating problems at all. So after changing the the thermostat, and radiator cap, flushing the system, the problem was cured with changing the radiator core. I topped the system up with blue anti-freeze, this becoming difficult to obtain. Has anyone run an old jaguar with the new red anti-freeze? I believe this is detrimental to the cooling system.

 

The antifreeze colour is not the complete story, red anti freeze generally has a longer life (5 years rather than 2 years for blue) Check that the antifreeze is ethylene glycol based Triple QX is for sure and is therefore compatible with cast iron and aluminium plus copper and brass.

It is the ethylene glycol base that is the most important, but also the Silicates, these give a high level of protection for Aluminium, but Silicates drop out after around 2 - 3 years, so any benefit to using a "long life" red antifreeze are pretty well negated.

So the answer is pretty well stick to good old Blue or Green ethylene glycol based antifreeze, and change coolant every 2 - 3 years to keep waterways clear and avoid blocking up of the radiator etc. from the silicate deposits.

 

What I have found for cooling and my car is the extreme with a powerful V8 is that using electric pusher you have room for a good size fan, the puller I had to go a little smaller but found one with enough CFM. Now that along with a good quality aluminum radiator keeps the engine plenty cool but the real issue on the Jaguars is NOT cooling the engine but rather cooling the engine bay. The Jaguars do not have enough air to vent in and out to flush the heat build up of the engine bay itself. I solved that with a custom ram air intake under the front valance and opening up an air opening before the firewall on the inner fender wells. That made more difference than anything else.

 

I would not be surprised if a few of the cooling problems with the older cars is due to the lack of a shroud around the fan?
I worked on R&D for an air compressor manufacturer back in the ‘80’s and we were developing a 2 stage compressor and using a radiator for the intercooler. Without a shroud only the area of the fan was proven to draw air current through the rad, with a shroud the whole radiator was utilised.