I have my engine installed with most connections made. I accomplished this task by raising the car on my four post lift, sliding the engine under and then lowering the lift over the engine. I then used an engine hoist to lift the engine up to the motor mounts.

Within a week or so I would like to install the rebuilt front suspension crossmember and the rebuilt rear axle.
My plan is to raise the car and place on four jack stands, and then install the front suspension and finally the rear axle.
I thought I would lift the front of the car, with the engine in place, with an engine hoist and straps to a point where I could slide the crossmember under the car and then lower the car onto the crossmember - I know it won’t be quite that easy!

My concern is that especially without the rear axle in place first, the entire car will tilt forward due to the weight of the engine combined with the front suspension. Should I install the rear axle first? With or without wheels/tires?

Any tips from those who have actually done this would be appreciated. Thanks so much.

Lin

 

It depends on where you locate the 4 jack stands for stability, further out to each corner of the car the more stable.

However I suggest doing one end of the car at a time, and bolting the rear end in first will, as you have said, help even the weight front to rear, and once the rear end is bolted up, i'd put it on the ground to give it more stability while working on the front end.

Just do whatever you feel the most comfortable with, if you dont feel 'right' working on it, stop, take a step back and reassess.

For added safety when I work under a car with the wheels off, I usually throw the rims and tyres under the car in the off chance the jacks and jack stands somehow let go

 

Lin, I've never worked with a four post lift (you lucky bum) - I'm assuming there's a clearance issue raising the suspension components? Otherwise a transmission jack would be the way to go.

With the engine installed I don't like the idea of raising/lowering the front end with an engine hoist - too much weight moving around and you need to be under there to locate the components. I recommend working with the tub on jack stands at the jack points. I clamp a board to the floor jack saddle and use tie down straps to tightly secure the suspension carrier to the board - the play in the saddle gives just enough wiggle to maneuver and line up bolts. Ideally someone on the jack and at each side, but I've done it solo many times. Good luck and work safely.

 

Thanks, Doug.
Yes, I will not use the hoist to lift the front. I wasn't sure that I could get the car high enough using jack stands to be able to slide the suspension crossmember underneath, but I can. I will post some images when I do the deed.
Lin

 

Do be careful! I had an unfortunate experience some years ago with my Daimler. I had jacked up the front of the car and lowered it onto car ramps. I then moved to the rear and intended to jack it up and place axle stands under the jacking points. This I completed. However, As I released the hydraulic pressure on the jack, the car lowered onto the axle stands and then continued a rearward journey, taking the axle stands with it!!! It then collected myself and we rode the hydraulic jack some six feet or so down my drive. We still have the score marks in the block paved drive to remind me every day. So, if the hand brake is ineffective, because the wheel are in the air - be sure the rear end is higher than the front, and place obstructions in the path of a potential run-away vehicle. Heavy blocks of wood or some such.