MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Pedal box rebuild

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Old 04-16-2016, 06:39 PM
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Default Pedal box rebuild

Any tips on rebuilding the pedal box? I need to remove the shaft that holds the brake and clutch pedal arms/springs. i took out the center bolt that I assume holds the shaft. Is the pin just pressed/hammered out in either direction? It doesn't seem inclined to move. I have it soaking in solvent hopefully to loosen it up.
 
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:05 PM
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After the centre bolt is removed it just slips out, it's not pressed in there.
I just finished assembling mine.
The shaft can only come out in one direction because one of the studs that holds the whole assembly in place on the bulk head is in the way (unless you remove the stud of course).
Put the whole assembly on something solid, take a punch with a blunt end and give it a light, and quick tap with a small ball peen hammer.
Use small light taps at both ends so the aluminum housing doesn't get damaged.

Once it starts to move start with your penetrating oil _ keep adding oil and continue tapping _ it will eventually come free.

If it still won't move, remove the clutch and brake master cylinders.
Take a heat gun and start heating the aluminum housing from the top on the exposed flat part, moving the heat gun back and forth in that area keeping it about an inch away from the housing. Keep the heat gun square to the housing, don't angle it.

The aluminum will quickly absorb the heat and expand faster then the steel shaft.
I use some good leather welding gloves to handle things like this.
With it hot it should easily tap out now, or even just slip out.

Patients is key here of course.

EDIT:
I'm also betting that your clutch return spring is broken. Seems to be pretty common as it moves quite a bit further then the brake and becomes work hardened.
If you get one from SNG Barratt _ you posted in this thread _ so just a reminder if you order it from them.
They did eventually send me the correct spring, free of charge.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...3/#post1397008
 

Last edited by JeffR1; 04-16-2016 at 11:23 PM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 08:35 AM
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Jeff- thanks very much. Just what I needed to know. Wanted to make sure I was headed in the right direction.
I had read the thread on the clutch return spring, and got the part numbers off there. But of course since I needed both the brake and clutch springs, I just ordered both parts.

Actually it was my brake spring that was broken, but I am replacing both.

Thanks again for your timely advice! I'll try getting it apart this evening.
 
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:34 AM
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Got it. It took quite a bit of heat and banging with a BFH, but that did the trick. Lot of crud on the shaft but it cleaned up nicely. Hope to get the pedal assembly finished this week. Thanks again for the advice!
 
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:12 AM
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Man... !
What a mess, I wonder how it got like that ?
It's not in an area where there's water.
Brake fluid must have been leaking on it for years and attracting moisture.
I'm going to fill my system with silicon brake fluid when comes time.
 

Last edited by JeffR1; 04-25-2016 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:47 AM
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I don't think the seal around the pedal box was doing its job, and there was water leaking in there. Fortunately the body around it is not rusty too. The floor has a lot of superficial rust damage. Lucky it isn't worse.
 
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:01 PM
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But still, even if the seal around the pedal box wasn't any good, where was the water coming from, a leaky heater box ?
Or was the car parked some place outside with out its hood on before you owned it ?
Maybe the scuttle vent was leaking...
 
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:40 PM
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I am sure the scuttle was leaking. The car has no functional seals. It was outside for a long time. It is amazing how mistreated many of these cars are.
 
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:38 PM
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Steel in direct and wet contact with aluminium is a very nice corrosion site !
 
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