MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Rear Stainless Steel Windscreen Moulding

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Old 03-06-2024, 11:49 PM
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Default Rear Stainless Steel Windscreen Moulding

Hello,
I am after one half of a 1961 Jaguar Mark 2 Rear Windscreen Stainless Steel Lock Moulding that fits in the rear windscreen rubber. Can anyone tell me how to tell if they are LH or RH or are they identical and just reversed to be fitted? I have one half piece which was not fitted on the car so I don't know if it's LH or RH.
Regards
Peter
 
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Old 03-07-2024, 02:46 AM
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They are handed and so you need the correct side, they are also usually chromed brass I believe.
 
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Old 03-07-2024, 07:07 AM
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are these moldings the same as for the S type rear glass?
 
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Old 03-07-2024, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Jose
are these moldings the same as for the S type rear glass?
They are similar but a different shape, the principal is the same but they aren't interchangeable.
 
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Old 03-07-2024, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jose
are these moldings the same as for the S type rear glass?
If we are talking about the screen chrome surround then no the profiles are completely different on the rear screens.

Below is a photo showing the different profiles from the S Type and the Mk2. The orientation is correct so the sharper bend is to the bottom and they are sided. If you give me your location Peter I have as can be seen in the second photo a pair of Mk2 rear screen chromes which I do not need as I have an S type. I am in the UK so could send whichever side you need but would prefer to keep them together as a pair.

PM me if you are interested. They do need a polish but they are straight and in fairly good condition.


Outer chrome for the S Type inner chrome for the Mk2. Right side looking towards the front of the car.

Pair of Mk2 rear chromes with S type chrome outside.
 
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Old 03-07-2024, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Cass3958
If we are talking about the screen chrome surround then no the profiles are completely different on the rear screens.

Below is a photo showing the different profiles from the S Type and the Mk2. The orientation is correct so the sharper bend is to the bottom and they are sided. If you give me your location Peter I have as can be seen in the second photo a pair of Mk2 rear screen chromes which I do not need as I have an S type. I am in the UK so could send whichever side you need but would prefer to keep them together as a pair.

PM me if you are interested. They do need a polish but they are straight and in fairly good condition.


Outer chrome for the S Type inner chrome for the Mk2. Right side looking towards the front of the car.

Pair of Mk2 rear chromes with S type chrome outside.
Hello,
Thank you for the great information, it has solved my dilemma. Now from what I can tell, I need the LH side. Looking at your pictrure posted, the LH side appears to have a slight buckle near the end part. Is that the case or another explanation. I would take the two off you if you could do a good price with shipping to South Australia 5092. Do they come with the cover plates for the top and bottom? Please email me the information on peterpan@bigpond.net.au
Regards
Peter
 
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Old 03-07-2024, 06:31 PM
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One of the more frustrating things about these Mk2 rear chrome mouldings can be after they have been ripped out of the old rubber by ham fisted persons and distorted.
I spent 4 hours in 20 minute bursts reshaping these mouldings on my current Mk2. Extremely frustrating! Had to walk away a number of times to let blood pressure subside!!!
 
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Old 03-07-2024, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Mac
One of the more frustrating things about these Mk2 rear chrome mouldings can be after they have been ripped out of the old rubber by ham fisted persons and distorted.
I spent 4 hours in 20 minute bursts reshaping these mouldings on my current Mk2. Extremely frustrating! Had to walk away a number of times to let blood pressure subside!!!
You are quite right in what you are saying, but from what I am led to believe that these mouldings are to be glued on as they dont sit in the rubber but on top of the rubber. If this is the case, maybe we need to know what the recommended glue is from a genuine source?
 
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Old 03-08-2024, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Mac
One of the more frustrating things about these Mk2 rear chrome mouldings can be after they have been ripped out of the old rubber by ham fisted persons and distorted.
I spent 4 hours in 20 minute bursts reshaping these mouldings on my current Mk2. Extremely frustrating! Had to walk away a number of times to let blood pressure subside!!!
Its even worse on the S Type Bill where it goes into a groove glass side but caps over the rubber & is glued body side. I found Loctite 480 the only product that worked and darn expensive here.



 
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Old 03-08-2024, 07:23 AM
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Forget "genuine sources". We are dealing with 60 years old technology and the adhesives/sealants used in those days have been replaced with far superior products.
The MK2 rear chrome mouldings should be glued in place whatever the Jag workshop manual states.
I know of local club members who have lost moulds particularly on highways where the departing mould has been immediately run over by following cars.
I use Sikaflex and am not really familiar with Loctite but if Glyn says it's OK then go for it.
Otherwise talk to a windscreen place like O'Briens and get their recommendations.
 
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Old 03-08-2024, 07:56 AM
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Glyn - At something over £1/gm, I'm wondering how much Loctite 480 the rear screen rubber needs? Also, do you have a feeling for how it would perform using the fitting method Rob mentioned a while ago (attach rubber and chrome to glass before fitting to car using the usual cord method)? My experience with cyanoacrylates is that they are either absolutely brilliant or fail (even the flexible ones) because they are too brittle.
 
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Old 03-08-2024, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter3442
Also, do you have a feeling for how it would perform using the fitting method Rob mentioned a while ago (attach rubber and chrome to glass before fitting to car using the usual cord method)?
I'm curious about that, as the locking strip would have to be in place before the chrome goes in, and that's not the way it's usually done. It's difficult enough to get the rubber seal in, it would be more difficult with the lock strip already there. I'd be concerned about damaging the chrome during the install.
 
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Old 03-08-2024, 06:17 PM
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That glue I used is Sikaflex 229. It makes a really strong bond between the moulding and the windscreen rubber.
 
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Old 03-09-2024, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Peter3442
Glyn - At something over £1/gm, I'm wondering how much Loctite 480 the rear screen rubber needs? Also, do you have a feeling for how it would perform using the fitting method Rob mentioned a while ago (attach rubber and chrome to glass before fitting to car using the usual cord method)? My experience with cyanoacrylates is that they are either absolutely brilliant or fail (even the flexible ones) because they are too brittle.
I used 1 bottle and a bit. Loctite 480 is a rubber-reinforced adhesive offering increased flexibility and peel strength along with enhanced shock resistance (their blurb). I don't know about the Rob method on a Mk2 but it would not work on an S Type.
 
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Old 03-09-2024, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
I used 1 bottle and a bit. Loctite 480 is a rubber-reinforced adhesive offering increased flexibility and peel strength along with enhanced shock resistance (their blurb). I don't know about the Rob method on a Mk2 but it would not work on an S Type.
The putting it all together, (rubber seals with chrome fitted attached to the glass then offered up) was suggested to me by an American Jaguar restorer many years ago but I never actually tried it as I had already fitted the rear screen (without the chrome) and did not want to have to remove the screen to fit it again. I am not sure it would work but it could. The hardest part of assembling the rear screen is getting the rear screen chrome to sit in the corners correctly. Once the rubber seals are in place it is very difficult to move them around and if the curve of the rubber does not match the curve of the chrome you are trying to fit it is a bitch. Sore fingers, lots of swear words and about two to three days to fit it. So getting the chrome attached to the rubber first so the rubber follows the contours of the chrome rather than the other way round does make sense. Getting it all to fit on to the glass and then into the aperture is a different matter.
 
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Old 03-09-2024, 04:11 AM
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Sorry double entry. Glitch in the matrix.
 
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Old 03-09-2024, 05:35 AM
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If you try the prefitted chrome on an S Type the whole thing stands proud at the corners instead of flat with the bodywork as it should be. You can't pull a string between the chrome & the body. The chrome should follow the body contour exactly with no gap. A guy on Jag Lovers calls it an "evil" job. I agree with him but we ultimately got it right after trying different adhesives and it is absolutely flush. Lots of tape on the corners and long curing time before removal of that tape. About 3 days. Loctite 380 works a treat ~ Contact adhesive is hopeless, Sikaflex failed and let go. My Loctite 380 is still perfect after at least 4 years or more.
 
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Old 03-09-2024, 05:48 AM
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You can't pull a string from the inside either due to the headliner shroud. You will damage or mark the Union Cloth. My upholstery guy insisted that he fit both screens. He was not about to let anybody mess up his work.



 
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Old 03-09-2024, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
You can't pull a string from the inside either due to the headliner shroud. You will damage or mark the Union Cloth. My upholstery guy insisted that he fit both screens. He was not about to let anybody mess up his work.
Glyn I fitted the screen first with just the head liner secured in place then fitted the headline shroud as you call it after the screen was in. I was able to use the string method to pull the rear screen rubber into place.
 
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Old 03-09-2024, 08:59 AM
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Remember you have the panel roof lining. In that might lie the difference. We had to run the roof lining into the rebate under the rubber as one has to in front or you end up with a mess like this. Sorry ~ I don't have a rear shot.






 


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