Wish you well with your parents & other!

 

Indeed Rob. My Merc is fitted with their Parametric steering that does everything other than make my first cup of coffee for the day. Running a huge 10 degrees of castor & variable camber with steering angle (all for high speed stability) the feel is constant from parking to 250kph. As it backs off assistance with rising speed & is fitted with amazing microprocessor monitoring & correction. It's feel is excellent at all times in all conditions. My S Type is heavier than expected at parking speeds & starts feeling overboosted at approx 100 kph. Jaguar runs virtually zero castor or camber. Only really bother about toe.

 

Thank you for your well wishes Glyn (it should've read 'Mother' by the way)

 

Sorry ~ in today's PC world I've been trained by our oilco not to make assumptions so used your terminology. You have my sympathies anyway & hope all goes well.

 

Thank You

 

Yet another update ! Having put the pipework back together (following pressure test) I've noticed a leak from the top cover (edge) around the edge nearest to engine. I've now removed the steering box and it sits on my workshop bench having removed the said top cover. Does anyone know the correct torque setting for the six nuts (and 'special' bolt). I shall be replacing the large O ring and the seven small O rings but am wary of applying too little or too much pressure when refitting. Also, as previously mentioned these boxes have a tendency to leak under pressure so is there a sealant I can apply in addition to the O rings to minimise this risk ?? I will also be replacing the four O rings on the front cover at the same time (where the high pressure hose connects) Again, does anyone know the correct torque settings (the WS manual simply says "tighten evenly"). Thanks in advance.

 

Here's just one chart for general torque settings, it's more important to get it even then anything else.
I haven't took a real good look at that chart, but it probably assumes that the bolt is going into steal, or cast iron.

When I did my box, I took great care to be very clean, I put the O rings in dry with no sealant.
Lubricating the O rings with oil or grease can allow oil under pressure to seep under the O ring. Care must be taken not to distort a dry O ring, but since they just lay in there, it's a pretty easy job.
Using any type of sealant on O rings when there is high pressure involved defeats the purpose of the O ring as any type of sealant (no matter how good) will always break down before the O rings wear out.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/mer...ce%20Guide.pdf

Also, while you have it apart, replace the O ring arrowed, there is also a bushing in there, mine was severely worn.
I had a machine shop make a new one out of bronze.

 

As I said early in the thread.

I would not fit a 1200 psi pump to a 1st type PAS Box. (apparently known for distorting their top & leaking)

First Type Burman PAS Box with Hobourn Eaton roller pump ~ 800 - 850psi (only very early S Types ~ mainly fitted to Mk2's)

1) I would first check with a straight edge that the top cover is flat at multiple points.
2) If you want to put anything on the O rings then Petrolatum/Vaseline is the right product as used on many Auto transmission valve bodies. It is microfine/microcrystalline wax at the end of the day. Harmless to rubber of all types etc. Allows the O rings to seat properly. No need to over apply.
3) You should torque all nuts for equal tightening as Jeff suggests. Alternate sides probably wise. Torque in multiple stages. Maybe 3.
4) To my knowledge there have never been any published torque settings for Burman boxes
5) Use Jeff's listing as a guide. If it still leaks try going a little higher than recommended but only with a torque wrench.

You might need to use your fancy controller to pull down the pressure a little.

Good luck.

 

Thanks both. I'll certainly take heed of the advice given. I may also install that electronic box of tricks that I bought from the States (I should've done that from the start I suppose but I was too eager to get things up and running). I'll then start at the lowest setting (voltage) and gradually increase until happy with assistance. Glyn's comment about too much pressure make sense with regards the top cover - it's the largest external seal and, if anywhere is going to be a weak area it's there (which is why I wondered if there were any sealants that could help).

 

On all the PAS boxes the weakest point is not the larger seals as these tend to have a greater surface area to bond, lots of bolts to hold them down and no moving parts to wear them out. The worst seals for leaking are on the Rocker shaft and the Worm shaft. Both these ring seals have to seal a rotating shaft so wear over time and get brittle. Also when owners replace these seals they slide the tight fitting seal over the splines of the shafts which damages the inner surface. Sliding the seal over the splines causes small cuts on the inner edge which whilst the seal is new is not a problem but when the seal gets older and more brittle these cuts start to open up and this is where you get your constant drip from.
When replacing these two ring seals over the splines it is recommended that you wrap the splines in tin foil or cling film to smooth out the sharp edges of the splines. Then apply lots of grease and slide the seal over the splines in to place. Once on the foil or cling film can be removed from the splines and you should not have any damage to the inner edge of the seals.

 

Thanks Cass3958. I put all new seals in the box a while ago and, as you rightly advise, I was very careful when fitting those particular ones. Mine definitely started to leak around the edge of the top cover - although I suppose it's possible that the fluid could've been coming from the bleed screw or the 'special' bolt. I've ordered a new seal kit and will replace the small O rings and the large top cover one (being very careful with the even tightening. Cheers ! The space is so restricted in the engine bay unfortunately otherwise I'd try and replace in situ (I removed the box yesterday and got covered in ATF fluid - it's times like that that I wish I had a different hobby - lol !).

 

Spot on Rob. I had to remove my box again due to Summit damaging the input shaft seal on the splines causing a very slow drip. They immediately fixed FOC but even the pros can make that mistake. They kicked someone's butt as they have the proper tool to prevent this. (a sleeve of some sort)

The problem with the top cover is apparently distortion under pressure. I'm told there was a material change at some time but have no details in that regard. Trouble is we are depending on the memories of older folk that we are steadily losing. BL threw out so much valuable Jaguar data.

 

Hello all. Been a while since posting on this thread. So, the box was installed and electrics connected up and it worked HOWEVER, despite me paying good money for a local hydraulics house to test the box for leaks (and finding none) the box has a very definte and substantial leak(s) so it is going to have to come out. I have tracked down a Jaguar repairer in Sydney that will rebuild these boxes (Burman type 2). The indicative range of costa is $450 to about $1200 ( $US350 to $US950) depending on what needs to be done. I actually am happy for someone that has rebuilt dozens of these to do the work rather than me. It will be done quicker and more accurately. I guess the lower price is replacing all seals and the upper price is replacing all seals, re-bushing and replacing any parts that may be worn too much. Just need to a) get permission from minister for finance and b) get it out of vehicle.

 

Urgh! as I say we had to pop mine out again due to careless fitting of the input shaft seal. Still better to have a pro do it. They know all the quirks due to experience. Mine was a very slow drip that took time to form but I wanted a bone dry box.

Good luck!

 

Thanks Glyn.

 

Good Morning everyone (or whatever time of day it is in your part of the world !)

Latest update regarding this Vauxhall/GM pump conversion. Following the substantial leak from the steering box top cover I have now resealed and refitted said unit. Leak, as previously discussed, was likely down to the excessive pressure (1000 - 1200 psi) generated by the Vauhall pump. Well I've now made a small aluminium box which contains the electronic voltage regulator bought from the states and have tried to wire it up as per the instructions supplied when bought. It's straightforward (at least I thought it was !), there are two screw connectors for power 'IN' and two for power 'OUT' (you have to wire in the negative 'earth' as well as the positive). I tested the unit beforehand using a test bulb and turning the control knob did indeed cause the bulb to go bright and dim - GREAT - the unit does as it says on the tin ! However, connecting the thick red wire from the pump and the thick brown wire from the pump to said unit and then testing with a test lamp doesn't see the same outcome - the bulb remains bright wherever the control knob is (even if turned to the 'OFF' position). I'm no electrical engineer so am now completely baffled and cannot understand why this should happen ?? For those not aware of the wires which come out of the Vauxhall pump there are a total of five - A thick red one (power in), a thick brown one (earth), a black thin wire which connects to an ignition-controlled fuse at the original fuse box, a thin blue/slate wire which is called a sensing wire and connects to the alternator (meaning pump only operates when the engine is running) and another thin brown wire (which is not required and is taped out of the way). I have followed the wiring diagram from the M&C Wilkinson website which relates to their use of the Vauxhall pump in their rack conversion.
Do any fellow members have any suggestions as to the cause of this latest conundrum - obviously I am reluctant to operate the pump again at full pressure as I don't relish the thought of climbing back under the car to remove and re-seal the steering box yet again.
Any advice or help would be very much appreciated.

 

I'm no expert but I'll do some guessing. Since your car has an alternator, all the polarities should be correct; i.e. +12V and Earth all on the right leads. From the first test, the regulator should be working, unless the pump took a large enough current to blow it on the first trial - it can happen. I'd disconnect the regulator from the pump and repeat your first test to check.

I assume the thin wires switch some relays to stop the pump when it shouldn't be running. If everything else is OK, then somehow 12V is leaking from the thin wires to the thick ones due to something going on inside the pump. Is it possible someone has done some re-wiring in the pump? If it runs with one of the thin wires disconnected, they probably have.

 

I have no bright ideas other than what Peter has suggested. The controller is rated at 60amps so should be a good match for the Astra pump under full load. From the Q & A on Amazon others have pushed this controller over 60amps & it survived.

I agree with Peter. Disconnect all and do your bulb check on the controller to ensure that it is healthy & not toast. Ensure it dims & brightens the lamp/bulb. If it does we know it is still operational and need to look elsewhere.

Maybe @wouldbeowner could comment on how he has wired his Astra pump. (PM him). Something does not make sense here.

Good luck!

 

Hi Peter,

Thank you for your comments. I've re-checked the regulator and it still works fine with a test lamp. I've also tried connecting the two thick wires to the pump (red & brown) with the sensor wire AND the thin black wire disconnected - still the same (ie - no voltage change when regulator knob turned - and still full output to pump when turned off). Like you, I thought perhaps 12V was leaking from one of those two wires - but surely that discounts that ? I'm at a real loss now to the extent that I might just scrap the whole idea of a Vauxhall pump and try to locate the original pump etc fitted to the rear of one of those alternator/dynamo upgrades (Dynamator). Cheers.

 

Sorry. We posted over one another see above.