Removing Rear AXLE/DIFF - S Type
#1
Removing Rear AXLE/DIFF - S Type
Hello all. A quick question as to the lifting infrastructure other users have when changing the rear axle assembly on an S Type.
Looking at this it does not appear to be a technically difficult job )brak lines, prop shaft, hand brake and a few bolts) BUT I am wondering whether it involves lifting/handling equipment I dont have access to.
I have car stands and hydraulic trolley jack which on the surface of it looks like it may perhaps be enough but I am concerned about getting the rear axle assembly back into place with just that - no hoist to lower/raise the car itself.
I guess it is a two person job as well.
Can some of you who have attempted this with minimal heavy lifting equipment please describe what issues you had and whether it was even possible please?
Cheers
Tim
Looking at this it does not appear to be a technically difficult job )brak lines, prop shaft, hand brake and a few bolts) BUT I am wondering whether it involves lifting/handling equipment I dont have access to.
I have car stands and hydraulic trolley jack which on the surface of it looks like it may perhaps be enough but I am concerned about getting the rear axle assembly back into place with just that - no hoist to lower/raise the car itself.
I guess it is a two person job as well.
Can some of you who have attempted this with minimal heavy lifting equipment please describe what issues you had and whether it was even possible please?
Cheers
Tim
#2
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
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#4
I did mine using just a trolley jack- a large one, but nonetheless.. Also I did it by myself. It absolutely would have been a Lot easier with help, but again, it happened. My downfall was not taking time to balance it exactly enough and I ended up tipping and, unfortunately having it fall off the jack once. It can be done with patience and care.
#6
Tim
For reasons of safety it would be sensible to have two people on hand when dropping or raising the subframe assembly. It is front end heavy and weighs a little more than one person can comfortably handle.
I have NOT used the suggested method below on an S Type, but I have used it on similar heavy assembles and it will prevent the unit tipping. I think it will overcome your problem.
The idea is to lower and raise the subframe assembly using threaded rods. Find a point in the boot or under the rear seat where you could drill two or three holes to line up with the forward edge of the two top subframe cut out holes. These holes are just above each hand brake unit and were originally access holes for brake maintenance of the E Type.
You would need approximately 12 mm threaded rods around 1 metre long, in addition you will need two flat steel plates that will span the subframe cut outs. Each of these plates will need drilling in the centre to accept the threaded rods.
Be careful not to drill the fuel pipe that runs across the rear seat panel. You will need to lower the threaded rods from above, passing them through the two flat steel plates that are positioned to contact the inside of the subframe. Fit two nuts locked together on the bottom of each rod. At the upper end fit two heavy washers on each rod and secure with a nut on each rod.
The threaded rod fixture should now be capable of lowering / raising the complete subframe assembly safely by the second person unscrewing or screwing down the upper nuts. The weight will be taken by the two flat plates on the inside of the subframe cut outs. Finally block off the drilled holes with grommets or bond steel blanks over the holes.
For reasons of safety it would be sensible to have two people on hand when dropping or raising the subframe assembly. It is front end heavy and weighs a little more than one person can comfortably handle.
I have NOT used the suggested method below on an S Type, but I have used it on similar heavy assembles and it will prevent the unit tipping. I think it will overcome your problem.
The idea is to lower and raise the subframe assembly using threaded rods. Find a point in the boot or under the rear seat where you could drill two or three holes to line up with the forward edge of the two top subframe cut out holes. These holes are just above each hand brake unit and were originally access holes for brake maintenance of the E Type.
You would need approximately 12 mm threaded rods around 1 metre long, in addition you will need two flat steel plates that will span the subframe cut outs. Each of these plates will need drilling in the centre to accept the threaded rods.
Be careful not to drill the fuel pipe that runs across the rear seat panel. You will need to lower the threaded rods from above, passing them through the two flat steel plates that are positioned to contact the inside of the subframe. Fit two nuts locked together on the bottom of each rod. At the upper end fit two heavy washers on each rod and secure with a nut on each rod.
The threaded rod fixture should now be capable of lowering / raising the complete subframe assembly safely by the second person unscrewing or screwing down the upper nuts. The weight will be taken by the two flat plates on the inside of the subframe cut outs. Finally block off the drilled holes with grommets or bond steel blanks over the holes.
#7
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#8
Tim ~ you've seen the Ed China clip I attached to your other thread. I had a full hoist at my disposal.
I've seen it done with the car on axle stands & a decent trolley jack with a plank under the centre plate of the axle assembly so it's more than possible with 2 pairs of hands.
I've seen it done with the car on axle stands & a decent trolley jack with a plank under the centre plate of the axle assembly so it's more than possible with 2 pairs of hands.
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