Looking for help:
My Mk2 (3.8l LHD from 1961) has power steering. Comparing with the workshop manual, it seems to be a Burman steering box.

There is about 6cm free play at the steering wheel. Almost all seems to come from inside the steering box. Is this normal? What improvement could I expect if I got the box overhauled?

According to the original parts catalogue, there is supposed to be a heat shield protecting the rubber coupling in the lower steering column (from hot exhaust pipes). This heat shield is missing. Any comments on its importance? Could anyone supply a sketch or photo so I could source or build?

Kind regards,
Dave

 

The early Burmans did not have any external way of adjusting the play but it can be done by re shimming the internals. Obviously if you are having the box rebuilt this should be done by the rebuilder. The later Adwest Marles variomatic steering box has to two screw adjusters externally which can be tweaked to take up any slack but one can only be adjusted on the RHD box when it is removed from the car as the adjusted screw is tight up against the sump. The other is on top of the steering box.
I would say that once shimmed correctly the steering would be more direct and should have no play but there are so many moving parts in the steering gear that to eliminate all movement you would have to replace all the joints. There must be at least five swivel points excluding the steering box it self and if you have just 1mm of play in each which is not a lot on one joint but times by 5 and you can see there could be quite a bit of play in the whole system.
I have a RHD car so no knowledge of a heat shield.

 

The upper bushing on my box was very worn, so I had a machinist make a new one.
The bore had a groove in it, so they bored it over sized and pressed a sleeve in it and took it back to spec.

Mine has recirculating ball and the quill valve to control the pressure in the box according to how quick the steering wheel was turned.
I think mine is a Burman too, but don't quote me on that.

 

The other cause can be if not the lower shaft UJ's, then the upper Plunging CV joint has 2 plastic rollers in it that wear. Important to establish where the play is. Plastic rollers still available. This set up was slowly introduced after the rubber horror. So it can be steering box & related joints or the steering column.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...column-236257/

 

The upper Universal Joint of the lower column is causing a very small proportion of the play. I estimate less than 10%. I estimate that more than 90% of the 6cm free play at the steering wheel comes from the steering box. All other links are tight. Since my Mk2 is not a daily driver, I could live with the sloppy steering. I have read that the British MOT allows up to 7.5cm for this type of steering. The German equivalent did not complain about the free play but only recommend renewing the mentioned UJ.
Before I make the effort to get the steering box overhauled (or try myself) I am interested to hear any experience what this overhaul would bring. Are there any numbers out there?

 

You should do it yourself, I wouldn't trust anyone to do it, unless he has experience.
The older the cars get, the old timers retire and in this throw away society everyone just buys new, but there is no new. New mechanics don't want to touch this stuff and don't know what to do anyway.
Work on a large cookie sheet with sides, so when you unscrew the worm, all the steel ***** don't get lost.
You have to mic them up and put them back on the worm with a sticky grease alternating large and small.
Then the worm is carefully screwed back into its housing, that's the tricky part.

There is a high pressure line that is on the upper drop shaft, this holds the drop shaft in place as you steer.
There is an O-ring to keep the high pressure out of the main housing.
If the bushing gets so worn and sloppy and the O-ring gets hard (usually both) the high pressure oil enters the housing where it's not supposed to go.
If this happens the high pressure is working against itself, and the thing will heat up to where it smokes.

Best just to rebuild before this happens.

You will also need a ring compressor to slip the single piston back in.
Take photos as you go along.

The hard part, while it's still bolted to the car, you have to remove the steering arm from the drop shaft, it's on a "keyed" taper.
Carefully tap back the locking tab and remove the nut, I went and bought a big crescent wrench for this _ I don't know what the size is _ a box end wrench would be best.

Put some witness marks on the drop shaft and steering arm. I can't remember if it can go on two ways.
Surprisingly after I put all new O-rings on, mine does not leak anymore, not even on the lower bushing.
I did not have to replace the lower bushing, but the two O-rings were shot.
You will have to shop around for the O-rings, there is no kit _ I went to a place with my samples where they rebuild hydraulic presses.

You need this:

Or this:

This is best, but getting the right size, and expensive.

The Shankly tool is probably tool small and cheap _ made in China most likely.
I think OTC Tool makes one.

I have the puller I used on mine, but I can't check and see which one (I have many pullers) because I will be in the hospital for 6 to 8 weeks dealing with a kidney transplant.

Anyways, you tighten the puller up as much as you can and give the "bolt end" a good whack with a 5 to 10 pound hammer, then tighten it again and repeat _ it will suddenly let go.
The Chinese pullers will bend or break.
Don't use any heat, it will ruin the brass lower bushing, and it won't do any good anyway, not with a taper.

When it's time to reassemble CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.
I had three ice-cream buckets filled 1/4 full of solvent, start with one and work your way through with all parts until no dirt is on anything.
Buy some cotton white rags at a paint store, and if any dirt shows, change the solvent and start again (use a new tooth brush)
Don't use linty paper towels.
After measuring the *****, I used clean tuna cans marked small and large.
Use the cookie sheet for reassembly, it has to be clean enough when wiped with a clean rag, no dirt will show.
I use a Simple Green, a brush and a garden hose to clean the cookie sheet.

 

OK~ If 90% of the play is coming from the steering box follow Jeff's wise words.

What he says about loss of skill sets to parts changers is correct. I will only let Summit Brake & Steering touch a steering box in SA.

They have the old guys training up a team of youngsters in the arts of the elderly tech.

I courier stuff over 1000Km's to have them work on things.

 

If yours has the torsion bar and quill valve it is a Burman (Second Type) in Jaguar speak.

 

Burman PS Box Type 1






First Type.

 

It plate 66 Glyn. If that's the first or second type, I'm not too sure.
Mine was leaking so bad out the bottom for such a long time, the front suspension rubbers were mush.

 

Plate 66 is the First Type with the short jumper pipe (46). The Second Type has a longer pipe with torsion bar & quill valve that is sensitive to steering wheel "pull" & improves feeling. Then finally you get the Varamatic that is the best of the bunch on feel as it is variable ratio on a curve. Designed in Australia by Arthur Bishop for an aircraft nose wheel & commercialised for cars by the Bendix Corp in the US. It was built by Adwest in Reading UK under license from Bendix. The MkX Jaguar was the first car globally to have it fitted.

 

That makes sense, my steering is tight after going through it all, but absolutely to rode feel at all, I never really liked it.

 

The First Type tended to have a feeling that you were driving by remote control. The Second Type was a vast improvement with steering feel & gave you some feedback from the road. The Varamatic was close to modern steering but could feel a little too light as speed increased. None of them are speed sensitive or make any effort to reduce boost as speed increases.

 

Thanks gents for your help so far!

The Burman 1st and 2nd types seem to be easily recognized by the direction of the outlet. Downwards for 1st and upwards for 2nd. I will look which type mine is. My Workshop Manual states the Adwest was not fitted to LHD 3.8l cars.

The freeplay adjustment for the Burman box is still not fully clear. For the 1st type: either the shims (part 12) or the thrust washer (part 39) or both?

My Workshop Manual covers only the 1st type. Which manual covers the 2nd type?

I will start a new thread for my heat shield query. A more exact title could help...

Regards,

 

The 1972 edition of the Manual covers both.

 

Dear All,
Winter is around the corner, so I’m now planning the job - and again looking fo helpfrom the experts...

I believe I have a Burmann Type 1 steering box since there is a short hydraulic jumper pipe. I’m not 100% sure since the outlet (connection for hose to fluid reservoir) is at the top of the housing near the drive spline (contrary to my expectations according our discussion above).
The previous owner (elderly gentleman) had an EasyDrive electrical steering fitted. The steering fluid pump, hoses and reservoir are still fitted. I don’t know whether the pump is driven or the connection to the generator has been removed. I would expect so.

My problems to solve are first the steering play as reported earlier and also steering fluid leaks - although these are not a large amount. Also I want to recondition the lower steering column, replacing the UJs and rubber coupler. I prefer to keep the electrical steering although obviously not original but seems to be a good technical solution, working well and providing an adjustable support. I know the purists will not like this idea...

My idea is to remove the steering box and lower column from under the car. Recondition the box hoping to significantly reduce the internal play (what could I expect?). Would it be feasible to pack it with grease (which type?) and seal off the fluid connections? This could ensure no leaks and be sufficient considering the electrical drive. I would also remove the pump, reservoir and hoses to de clutter the engine compartment.

Another idea would be to replace the box with a manual version needing less turns from lock to lock. Problem is the cost since I don’t have a used one to exchange.
I would be grateful for your comments and replies,
Dave

 

If the old system is no longer required and you intend to remove all the ancillaries from the engine bay I would buy a reconditioned manual box with a better lock to lock ratio then sell the old system complete on EBay. Complete systems Pump, Coupler, Generator, Pipes, Reservoir and steering box can go for in excess of £1000 to someone with a manual steering system that wants to convert to PAS whilst retaining original Jaguar parts. Changing the Generator to an Alternator would not only give you more Amps to power your electric steering set up but you could also change to Neg earth if you have not already done so.
The selling of the old system would more than pay for any upgrade you want to do.

 

Dear Cass,
That’s a good idea! The car is already negative earth. I assume I already have an alternator; I used the term generator in a general way. Would you please suggest a good source for the manual box? I would prefer one which is plug-in compatible and reliable regarding no leaks.
Do you think the final result would be a good technical solution and also not degrade the value of the car? Would you recommend I keep the removed parts in case the next owner is more of a purist?
Regards,
Dave

 

Dave,

I've mentioned in other threads ICS steering in Birmingham, England. They make a high ratio manual box:
Jaguar Mk1 & Mk2 Close Ratio Steering Boxes

I've no association with them or personal experience of their products, but, if I eventually go to an electric system on my car, I'd most likely use their box.

 

The generator can be either Pos or Neg earth and switching over is as easy as tapping the terminal to earth. If you are not sure if your car is Pos or Neg look at the battery terminals and see which one goes to earth. Most alternators are Neg earth but you can buy them Pos earth as well so check the battery.
Pete has answered the where to buy question and I do not have an alternative source.
Keeping the original parts can be done but you might end up with several boxes of parts in your garage which you have removed which will then just be thrown away by the next owner as the car has already been converted to Electric PAS and they are no longer needed. Cash them in and let the new owner source the parts if he wants to convert the car back to original.