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​​​​​​​have a 3 days stuck, LH rear hub. I have soaked it with PB Blaster, hit it with an LP torch, and beaten it with a sledge. I am fearful I am at the point of 'blooming' the axle shaft.
As shown in the photo, I have a very large, vintage forged Hub Puller attached. Outside of the Churchill style puller, I doubt I can bring to beare any more force. I do not have a 3/4 air impact gun available. The RH side came off rather easily.

Any ideas??

 

Problem with those pullers is they do not apply equal force. Try moving the pick up points to different lugs and start over. You are in Atlanta so you ate near the tool loan program for JCNA.

 

As George said, but there is an adapter plate that is available that worked well for me.
The adapter plate allows for more of an even load on the hub.
I also made an end that threads on the axle so it doesn't ruin the threads or "mushroom" the end.

Here's the adapter. I'm not sure if it's sold separately.


And my thread showing the adapter to prevent damage to the axle.

With the Churchill tool, or any puller, you will want to put the nut on to keep the axle from mushrooming.
The nut is put on with the castle end towards the hub, or you may use just an ordinary nut.
The size is 7/8 NFT 14 threads per inch _ nothing special.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...r-axle-101214/

The Churchill tool works well (so I've read), so there is that option.

 

If your really stuck I cut the brake disc off the ones on myu 3.8, you can then undo the end plate from the axle and pull the whole hub and halfshaft out with the bearing.

I then took it to someone with a 30 ton press who pressed it out for me.

Given the persistant problem that these are to remove it makes me wonder whether the taper angle should have been slightly steeper to make this easier.

Be very careful not to spread the end of the shaft as its a pain to repair, have a look at my 2.4 restoration thread to see what happened when I did this with a puller I bought.

 

Oh No, not the dreaded seized hub syndrome !! These can be a real PITA and I remember reading about them when I was rebuilding my Mark 2 in the 80s. I didn't have a problem, but some people have to leave the puller on for a week or so, and then try hammer/heat. Whoever calculated the taper angle clearly did no major on engineering issues. On the other hand, machining may not have been as accurate as the specification demanded.

 

The TR6 was the same way.
When my dad was teaching mechanics in high school a kid brought one in, took quite a bit to get it off including the use of an acetylene torch.

One has to load the puller up as much as they can and whack the end of it with a big hammer though, this is the only way it will come off.
That side hammer on the end that the OP has isn't very useful.

The other problem is the OCT tool doesn't fit the end of the axle at all, it has to be on there square for it to load properly.

 

Another hour after it today, with no luck. I think I arrange a visit to Coventry West, and take George's advice.

Has anyone had an "On the Car" brake rotor re-surface - done on a Mk2. If the Churchill puller does not work, I just may throw in the towel on getting the hub off.

 

The Churchill tool will get the hub off.
Grease the threads as you have done, load the puller up until it won't tighten anymore with a big torque bar and then whack it with a 5 or 10 lb. hammer.
Repeat those steps until it breaks free.

The Churchill tool has a large ball bearing on the end so it seats properly in the end of the axle.
Be sure and thread the nut on to protect the threads.

If the OTC puller has damaged and distorted the end of the axle, then the Churchill puller may not work.

 

Pony you will not find the tools at CW anymore. GO to the JCNA web site and see the tool loan section. While not in Atlanta they are not far away.

 

I will pass along the final outcome to my stuck hub, in the hopes that it may help someone else down the line. Note I had thrown-in the towel for some time, but re-attacked this car a week ago, and got it done
Sometimes you just have to walk away......and come back (months) later.

So,
a) one rear hub was stuck, and the huge 3 leg OTC puller would not budge it. I had begun to mushroom the axle - so I rented the Churchill Puller from the JCNA.
b) after 3 days with the Churchill Puller, and a (too) massive helper bar - still no joy, but I thoroughly destroyed the end of the axle shaft and worried I might break the $750 tool.
c) I knew the entire rear end had to come out, so I walked away for 2 months to contemplate my next move.
d) I had seen a posting somewhere, that showed how you could remove the 4 bolts from the backside of the Hub Seal, by cutting a groove for a flat blade screwdriver into the protruding end of the bolt - then holding the bolt with a screwdriver while using a thin box wrench to unbolt it. Note: this was precise work in very tight spaces - so I see no way this could have been done with the rear-end in the car.
e) after getting the Hub Seal/brake caliper holder unbolted, a few careful whacks to the rotor, and the axle shaft and bearing, pulled out in whole. I now just had to find a shop to press the axle shaft out of the hub.
f) machine shop #1 had about a 40 ton press, but it was manually pumped - - - and the damn axle shaft would STILL not come out!!
g) machine shop #2 works on Bulldozers, and had a ??? ton, automated press that could probably turn the axle shaft into a pretzel. Still, he had to get the torch and heat it for about 5 minutes before the shaft finally EXPLODED out the bottom of the press.

How could this be? Was the Jaguar design So Bad, that you needed to remove the rear end and destroy a $250 axle shaft just to replace a rotor???? NO.

The mystery was solved when the hub cooled down and we examined it. Some JACKLEG had serviced the brakes in the past, and had used J.B. WELD on both the axle stub, and the axle key!!!. The hub was epoxied onto the axle, then torqued down with the castle nut!!!

Even still, I am shocked that the J.B. Weld worked SO WELL. I will guess it was heat and 60 tons of pressure that finally broke it free.

 

JB Weld is amazing stuff ! (not when you want it to be in this case anyway)
Probably the heat, that cooked the JB Weld enough so it broke free.

 

Thats truely amazing, well done for persevering, now all you need is a new half shaft.

I had to use a 30 ton press on mine and I thought that was bad.

 

Dremel tool with small cutting wheels were used on the ends of the bolts.