Success in honing brake callipers
#1
Success in honing brake callipers
I'm slowly tearing my brake and suspension systems apart on my 1965 Mk2. I've pulled one one rear and one front calliper and both have corroded cylinder walls. Before I take the plunge and purchase new callipers has anyone successfully been able to hone the brake calliper walls and install a rebuild kit?
Front Calliper
Rear Calliper
Front Calliper
Rear Calliper
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Those are nasty, if those were mine, I would just get them sleeved, but I'm OCD about things.
Mine were sleeved with bronze, not sure why, but it's what the guy used.
What are the pistons like, they have to seal on the flat surface of the piston, most of the time that's pitted too ?
The other thing that I've found is that if you get them sleeved, the people doing it will sandblast them and they should then be painted.
Sandblasting never really gets into all the microscopic cranny's of the casting, and if they are not painted, they will always rust on the outside or around where the dirt seal rests.
Eventually one gets caught in the rain and the inevitable happens.
What does get rid of the rust 100% and leaves only good steel behind is hydrochloric acid, I soaked mine for a day or two before sending them off to get them sleeved _ I painted them too afterwards.
I have some old ones kicking around the house and I still have my acid, I'll do one for you with some before and after photos.
I used this same method to clean the caliper body, works really well, but there can't be any grease or oil on things, the acid doesn't eat through that.
They came out in new condition ready for paint.
Mine were sleeved with bronze, not sure why, but it's what the guy used.
What are the pistons like, they have to seal on the flat surface of the piston, most of the time that's pitted too ?
The other thing that I've found is that if you get them sleeved, the people doing it will sandblast them and they should then be painted.
Sandblasting never really gets into all the microscopic cranny's of the casting, and if they are not painted, they will always rust on the outside or around where the dirt seal rests.
Eventually one gets caught in the rain and the inevitable happens.
What does get rid of the rust 100% and leaves only good steel behind is hydrochloric acid, I soaked mine for a day or two before sending them off to get them sleeved _ I painted them too afterwards.
I have some old ones kicking around the house and I still have my acid, I'll do one for you with some before and after photos.
I used this same method to clean the caliper body, works really well, but there can't be any grease or oil on things, the acid doesn't eat through that.
They came out in new condition ready for paint.
Last edited by JeffR1; 06-28-2019 at 08:53 PM.
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The little town of Lake Cowichan here on Vancouver Island isn't a bustling hub either.
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S-Type Owner (06-30-2019)
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If the new ones are stainless steel, then there's certainly nothing to worry about, if they're cast iron and you're using DOT4 fluid, then certain maintenance procedures have to be followed so they don't rust like the originals.
Sleaving was done at a time when no one was re-manufacturing the originals.
Sleaving was done at a time when no one was re-manufacturing the originals.
#16
There are stainless cylinders available, but are not cheap: -
https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/brit...er-205077.html
Four needed so £184 x 4 = 736 plus shipping ! Or convert to modern calipers that bolt straight on: -
https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/brit...kit-22767.html
A bit cheaper but you still have the rear calipers to deal with which are even more eye-wateringly expensive !!
https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/brit...system.html#22
https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/brit...er-205077.html
Four needed so £184 x 4 = 736 plus shipping ! Or convert to modern calipers that bolt straight on: -
https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/brit...kit-22767.html
A bit cheaper but you still have the rear calipers to deal with which are even more eye-wateringly expensive !!
https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/brit...system.html#22
#17
You may want to contact these people Hyedracyl, I have there disc brake cylinders on my E-type.
Mark II Parts Availability
http://www.hyedracyl.com/main.html
Mark II Parts Availability
http://www.hyedracyl.com/main.html
#18
Thanks for all the options. I was digging through my spare parts and found 2 new front Dunlop callipers so one wheel is set. I have a potential local place that sleeves brake callipers so I will check them out later this week and see if they are able to service the callipers. Mean while one shock and spring out so I can change out the bushings and ball joints...
#19
I found a local place that can sleeve callipers, unfortunately their machine will not work with the Dunlop pin in place. Cost to re-sleeve the calliper would be $250 CND each (if there were no pin). It looks like here it is cheaper to buy reproduction rather an try and salvage the old callipers.
#20
I found a local place that can sleeve callipers, unfortunately their machine will not work with the Dunlop pin in place. Cost to re-sleeve the calliper would be $250 CND each (if there were no pin). It looks like here it is cheaper to buy reproduction rather an try and salvage the old callipers.
I'll have to dig up my invoice and see.
I don't think they're set up for it, if you send them off to a shop where they have all the equipment in place and raw materials, I think it would be more reasonable.
They must have saw you coming... Oh..., a guy with a Jag, he can afford it, lets take him to the cleaners !