The 4 speed with overdrive would be a nice choice. If you have access to the car being broken make sure you also get the steering column surround and the indicator that says "Overdrive" instead of the automatic shaft pattern.

The transmission tunnels are different on automatic cars vs the manual, I believe it is wider and shorter. The manual with overdrive is a long combination, so it may not fit into an automatic tunnel.

 

The tunnel is wider & long enough. The Moss with longtail overdrive fits. My one donor car had this combination. Fitted fine. Sorry it got caught in a brush fire which wrecked a good dash & instruments. You have to cut a shift lever hole in the tunnel and make a rubber gaiter plan (the hole does not need to be this large). The Jaguar all synchro box with Type A compact overdrive will fit perfectly if the Moss arrangement does ~ it is more compact. Many have done this conversion from Auto to Manual, All sync, OD. I would remove all Auto protuberances and make cover plates.

 

https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/auto...n-again/354264

It seems to be a well trodden path. The link above has a lot of useful points and ideas.

 

Add spigot bearing, prop shaft, and rear gearbox mount with spacers to the parts list.

Make the hole in the tunnel for the gear lever big enough to have access to the lid of the gearbox. There are the reversing light switch and overdrive inhibitor switch to access. Moreover, it's not impossible that you'll have some reason to take the lid off the gearbox in the future and it's nice not to have to remove the engine to do it. Jaguar covered the hole with a fibre cover - for the conversion, it's a case of make something that fits and is convenient.

 

I think Peter makes a very good point. If you want full access to the top cover of the gearbox then cut a large hole in the tunnel & modify a Manual cover to fit. It's just made of fibreglass so easy to work with. Cheap to buy & frequently on Ebay. Then you can use a genuine Jaguar gaiter etc. for the gear lever. It's just held in place with seat runner oblong washers, easy nuts & self tapping screws. It's then covered with carpet underfelt prior to carpeting., You will have to cut a correct hole in your console so the lever does not foul. Auto & Manual consoles are not the same ~ hole aside. But one can always make a plan. That should be the least of your worries.

 

Most likely a large hole in the top of the tunnel will also make the installation a great deal easier. I think that I'd buy a factory fibre glass cover, as Glyn suggested,, put it in as good position as possible on the tunnel, and make a line around it. Then cut away a good amount of the metal of the tunnel from inside the line. The factory cover will not match the tunnel at all well so it will be necessary to do some improvisation on the tunnel and the cover and maybe make an intermediate piece.

 

Thanks for all the comments and advice gentlemen, much appreciated as ever. Some points I hadn’t considered previously but am now prepared for.
Does anybody know if the S type 3.4 and 3.8 use the same flywheel or are they different?
Mike

 

The 3.4 and 3.8 Mk2 have the same flywheel. I'd be fairly sure the same goes for the S type. The Mk2 had an option of a lighter flywheel for competition, but that's quite rare.

 

Mike, For the kind of project that you're contemplating and for taking care of these old cars in general, it's worthwhile to get the factory parts and service manuals for your own car and also for similar/contemporary models. The old Jaguar factory books are outstandingly informative and surprisingly pleasant to read. For paper versions, I recommend the internet site of my local bookshop Blackwell's. They have a good stock and most often the best prices, better than the South American river. Sometimes a Google search of Blackwells and the name of the book works better than their own search engine. For electronic versions, I think there should be some in the sticky at the top of the forum and also, and perhaps more easily, in Jose's website. A Google search and eBay may provide other sources.

 

Some of the spares stores seem to sponsor the parts manual. It's price can vary considerably new on Ebay.

Peter ~ My thoughts on the manual cover were to cut it down as far as necessary & then fibre glass a flange/skirt around it similar to the original with a release agent on the tunnel metal or just masking tape. Fibre glass matte and resin is easy to work with and I think you could make a very neat job of it ~ attachment holes & all ~ trimming the edge would be dead simple. I saw a very neat job done but regret not saving a picture but I have searched & can't find it.

 

Glyn, I agree. But it's a matter of what Mike (or his mechanic) like working with and, with the big differences between the tunnels it's a probably best to work up on it rather than diving in.

 

Peter, Glynn, and others who have contributed to the thread, I value your input. I’m actually comfortable with tinwork or fibreglass, so I’ll see which seems to fall into place when I get a bit further along. I’ve actually got the service manuals and various other manuals on the mk2 but nothing beats the knowledge gleaned from people such as yourselves who have figured out the intricacies involved in conversions. The last mk2 I worked on was back in the 70s when we replaced a clutch on one by taking the gearbox out from underneath. It can be done but wouldn’t do it that way again.
I’ll keep posting updates as we move along, but once again, thanks for your contributions and all further advice and guidance will be most welcome.
Mike

 

This is what a standard manual tunnel looks like (S Type) with some anti drumming material like Dynamat already attached.

 

I have done this swap before in a MK1. Went from 3.4 auto to 3.8 manual overdrive on a moss box. The 3.4 engine was seized. The cheap 3.8 engine and gearbox came out of an S type which had been plundered by hot rodders for the rear suspension
The floor "hump" is definitely wider but on a MK2 the centre pedestal off an auto should still suffice with appropriate modifications for the gear shift.
You definitely need to open up the " hump" to allow access to the top of the gearbox for servicing and repairs. (I have had to remove manual gearbox tops for selector repairs)
One easily overlooked item is the tail shaft. The auto uses a "divided" i.e. two-piece tail shaft.
The manual uses a single piece tail shaft. The tail shaft off the donor S type car should fit. Otherwise, a good engineering shop can make new shaft using the old universal housings and flanges
In my case serendipity prevailed when I found a suitable tail shaft was off the rear tail shaft of a MK8 auto. (I had bought a MK8 with a truckload of spares)
If you can I suggest you try for a full synchro box. I have one retro fitted to my 1960 Mk2 and it really makes a difference.

 

The original combo for Manual with Overdrive. The Mk2 has a small bracket riveted/screwed on the top but otherwise identical ~ same mould.



S Type



Mk2

 

Bill, I guess that you also took the pedal box and clutch hydraulics from the donor. Some more items for Mike to add to his parts list.

 

The pedal box itself should be the same, but the pedal pads and rubbers need to be changed to a manual version, and of course the clutch master cylinder bolted on. When I converted my car ( to a Ford T5 manual) I used the automatic pedal box, as both arms are already there.

 

To my knowledge you just need the pedals & hydraulics. The box accommodates both Auto & Manual ~ it has a blanking plate bolted to the one side. The Auto brake pedal has the 2 arms.

 

Sorry. We all crossed one another while I was looking for a pic.

 

That’s very interesting guys, I had the pedal cluster on my parts list, but I wondered if the arms were the same as a manual unit. On the automatic the left arm is a dummy and joined to the right arm via the larger pedal pad. I have the arms already so I’ll keep it and add clutch master cylinder and new pedal pads instead.