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Yes, its 48. You have got that right. I have seen these damaged and cracked
Take particular note of the washers marked 50. Should be copper.
By the way old copper washers will harden up. Can be re-used by annealing which softens them up. Heat up to red hot and drop into cold water
Found the leak, just as Bill Mac indicated The assembly , replacement cost $CA 180.00 from Moss Repairable I assume..... 58 years does a hole make in metal!! Any repair suggestions?
Do you think it can be patched with metal epoxy? Melt some wax into hole and let it harden. Then apply the epoxy over the metal and the wax. Once all is hardened. Warm the metal and use air pressure to clear out the wax.
I'm the first to (attempt) repair rather than replace. Now, thinking aloud. Epoxy might work well, but I'd constantly worry about it, especially as a loss of oil supply to the head is potentially serious. If I were attempting a repair, my first thought is to braze or solder a sleeve around each of the damaged sections. First make a pattern to maintain the general shape and positions of the connections.
180.00$ Canadian from Moss seems OK.
Seems a little putzy using epoxy on such a critical area, even silver solder, brazing, or just solder may have difficulty adhering because there will always be oil leaching out of the pores to get a clean bond.
Could also be thin in in other areas causing more problems down the road, or it may give way to a catastrophic failure in other areas that you can't see.
There's pitting all over the line...
Happy to see you finally found the oil leak which I suggested could be in the camshaft feed pipes
That oil pipe is rusty and visible rust is a bit like an iceberg. You are only seeing 10% and the other 90% is out of sight.
So, it is just not worthwhile to attempt to repair it.
If funds are tight then go for a good second-hand pipe but I believe a new one would be best.
If possible, go for new copper washers to fit whatever pipes you get.
Hello to everyone,
Short term I will try to repair it just so I can keep working on the engine to get it started and running.
And I can order a new one since it is a critical part.
It is too bad that the oil passage was not made interior to the engine.
Always interesting to hear the many good ideas.
Thanks
Jimmy
For those non-believers' external flexible oil lines like this have been used in aviation for many decades.
My current Piper PA 28 Cherokee runs similar flexible lines to/from the oil cooler
For those non-believers' external flexible oil lines like this have been used in aviation for many decades.
My current Piper PA 28 Cherokee runs similar flexible lines to/from the oil cooler
While waiting for my cam oil pipes to arrive, I am thinking about the starting problem with the engine.
As you mentioned to check the fuel supply.
I have been thinking of all the parts that need inspection, from fuel tanks (filters inside), the fuel pumps, the carbs themselves as I may have made mistakes during the rebuild, and the starting tubes that could be somewhat blocked.....
How do I know what pressure and flow to get from the fuel pumps? The fuel filter bowl appears to be filled.
So I can check the fuel pumps to see if the pump parts are clean, etc. But replacement parts are costly to rebuild.
SU carbs require low pressure, about 2.5 psi. When the system is operating as it should they do not run continuously, the pump fills the float bowls and stops, as the fuel is used the pumps start up again, the pump rate is matched to engine demand.
As a broad general comment, I wouldn't use places like ebay or amazon for parts. I'd rather use a specialist like SNG Barratt. They have a branch in the USA, but I generally order everything from the UK, their main branch. It comes 2 day DHL to Canada and is reasonably economical if you do a larger order of parts - as I suspect you may need.
09-24-2024 | 12:50 AM
