My 3.4 1965 runs great, Put a new starting solenoid and otter switch in the manifold.
I test lighted everything, If I jump the switch it works fine, but the new sensor in the manifold does not work right.
I know EVERYONE puts a toggle under the dash to cheat but is there a modern replacement instead.
Ido understand its not the same otter switch as the radiator.....
Anyone?
Thanks in advance
GTJOEY1314

 

I am with you on trying to make the system work as designed. But don't think I can be much help as I don't have a running car yet. I did test my old otter switch with hot water and it works. I put a new starting solenoid in (between) the carbs. It would seem that would be easy enough to test.


So what do you mean it doesn't work right? The complaint on these systems seems to be that the Otter switch isn't discrete enough to know when to turn off the enrichment.

 

Make sure the ground on the Otter switch is clean.
Put in a 90 degree Celsius thermostat so it will shut off sooner.

 

Thanks guys, I did both......
Im a driver as many know. I like basic originality but ALWAYS upgrade with taste.
The switch set up stinks.
I ground out the wire its perfect.
I just thought someone made an upgraded switch.
We shall see......
Drive on and please go to my NON COMPETITIVE web site GTJOEY.COM as we are going on some big adventures.......

 

Don't let it get under you skin if you eventually have to put in a manual switch, allot of British designs required modifications.

I had a TR7 that was exported to California with this horrible automatic choke on it.
It was controlled by exhaust and water coolant temp.
I carefully dismantled it and cleaned it out and it worked once the entire time I had the car.
It would either choke it too much or not enough and the car would start very poorly.
I even went to the dealer and asked "what gives" and they said to go to a wrecking yard and switch out both carbs to get the manual choke ?
After that it always started first try, even in the coldest winters.

EDIT:
Pretty **** poor design, it should have some sort of capacitor in there to keep it from arcing. The article mentions there is a replacement from Burlen that may be better.

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/os.htm

Maybe it has some better workings in it _ expensive enough.

http://sucarb.co.uk/switches/thermos...mo-swtich.html

 

Check with Mike Eck Mikeeck@optonline.net . He sells a solid state electronic version of the otter switch. Much more dependable than the original.

Lin

 

Thank you will do......

 

I made a new home run wire from switch starter solenoid to otter switch and made a new connection where the feed and brake switch join, also added a new brake switch.
The combo is making it work......
Its an all original 41,000 mile car, ah the joy.
My God I love these 3.4 motors I could turn the idle down to 400 rpm , Its like a swiss watch.
GTJOEY1314